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Old 10-22-2013, 04:51 PM   #1
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shower wall waterproofing


Hello,
So I'm adding a bathroom in my basement. I'll be doing an all tiled shower. I just finished the preslopre by following this great article http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

now it's time to add the backer/cement board and liner. My concern is, how do I waterproof the walls? I've talked to HD guys and they say just add a 4-6mm plastic, staple it on the studs and put your cement board. This shower will not be heavily used, in fact, it'll be rarely used but I want to do it right but at the same time I don't want to spend too much money. can anyone help me with some proper procedure for a reasonable cost?

Thanks.

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Old 10-23-2013, 05:45 AM   #2
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I would suggest a paint on surface membrane --Redguard is about $50 for enough to do a typical shower----with that, you do not need a plastic vapor barrier behind the backer board----

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Old 10-23-2013, 09:37 AM   #3
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Ditto what Mike said.
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Old 11-25-2013, 02:34 PM   #4
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I bought one of those pre-cut pan liners (5'x6'). They have it folded in a bag.. after installing it, seems like there are few kinks and folds that won't completely flatten! I've already installed the backer board and having trouble getting the liner lay flat completely. I did a water test and the water is having trouble draining down because of those kinks.

what suggestions do you have? when I make the shower floor, I can push it hard and make them stay flat! hopefully that will work. not sure if you guys have any other suggestions!

Thanks.
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Old 11-25-2013, 02:47 PM   #5
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Red guard is the easiest. Just roll it on. Concerning your second question. I don't have a clue about a fold up water pan. The only ones i know of. The Styrofoam ones made by Schluter or you go old school mud job.

I sure one of the other guys have seen the one you purchased.

Last edited by 747; 11-25-2013 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 11-25-2013, 02:49 PM   #6
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shower wall waterproofing


Some heat might let you massage the wrinkles out. But my concern is that you say you already installed the backer board. Is there a vapor barrier behind the backer board? How does everything meet the pan liner at the bottom? Do you have some pictures you could post so we can see what you have done so far?
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:08 PM   #7
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Wait---you did install the liner before you put up the backer board,right?
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:28 PM   #8
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backer board went after the liner

watch this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1M76r...ature=youtu.be

Please let me know what to do with the extra liner.. I was thinking of taking that one backer board off and pull the liner up a bit.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:32 AM   #9
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That video shows some excess fabric, but I think the deck mud will work fine over that----You are there ,so you must make the call---

I suggest you do a flood test before packing the pan----it's good insurance---fixing a leaker is cheap and easy now--after the pan is packed and tiled? Not so simple.
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
That video shows some excess fabric, but I think the deck mud will work fine over that----You are there ,so you must make the call---

I suggest you do a flood test before packing the pan----it's good insurance---fixing a leaker is cheap and easy now--after the pan is packed and tiled? Not so simple.
while I'm packing the mud, I think I can push the fabric outward and make it work.

I did do a flood test. just cut 4 notches to get the bolts out, added the top drain flange upside down.. didn't leave the water overnight tho. and had trouble draining the water because of the excess fabric.

Anyhow, if I can get the mud push the fabric down, I think I'll be alright.
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:28 PM   #11
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I think you will,too. Keep the mud on the dry side---just like the instructions in the link you posted.
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Old 03-05-2014, 04:23 PM   #12
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Ditto again what Mike said above about paint on surface membranes.
If you don't go with the RedGuard, then I would recommend Laticrete's Hydro Barrier. You can apply it with a brush or roller, but you will get better results spreading it with a joint compound knife. Remember to tape the seams with a fabric or fiberglass mat tape. When they dry they conform to the surface of the board thus leaving NO bumps for the tiler. Laticrete also offers a product called Hydro Ban that I hear eliminates the need to tape. Just another option for you.

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