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Old 06-18-2012, 12:49 AM   #1
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Shower Wall Waterproofing


Hi all,

I need some help completing the waterproofing for this shower. One wall has a partial masonry wall. The blocks in this wall are not smooth/flat. How do I go about attaching the building wrap and the CBU to the masonry wall?

https://picasaweb.google.com/Jim.Mac...eat=directlink


Thanks

Kohler Salient 60" x36" Cast Iron Pan

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Old 06-18-2012, 05:38 AM   #2
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Shower Wall Waterproofing


That doesn't look like fun---

I would skip the builder wrap (tar paper) in that section.

How out of flat is that brick? could you simply use Tapcon screws to fasten the backer board to that brick?

For water proofing --paint on a surface membrane like Redguard by Custom--

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Old 06-18-2012, 09:19 AM   #3
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Shower Wall Waterproofing


Thanks for replying.
With your suggestion of skipping the building wrap, how would I tie in the inner corner?
Also, can tapcons be countersunk for cbu?

That brick is pretty uneven with considerable valleys and hills +/- about 1/4 inch.
If I fir out with a 1x2 from the studs, the cbu will be flush with the brick for the most part and will sit over the flange. A 2x4 will take me a half inch from the brick and the cbu will protrude an inch or so from the brick wall.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:52 AM   #4
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How are you planing on tying the CBU to the shower receptor?
Take a look at the illustration if the first post of this thread.

Shimming Durock

Does your CBU come out at least as far as your flange? It's hard to tell from the pics.
If not, I would recommend you stop and figure this out before proceeding any further.
You may find fixing this (bringing the CBU down to the flange) solves your masonry problem.
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:06 PM   #5
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Shower Wall Waterproofing


Quote:
Originally Posted by Blondesense View Post
How are you planing on tying the CBU to the shower receptor?
Take a look at the illustration if the first post of this thread.

Shimming Durock

Does your CBU come out at least as far as your flange? It's hard to tell from the pics.
If not, I would recommend you stop and figure this out before proceeding any further.
You may find fixing this (bringing the CBU down to the flange) solves your masonry problem.
Thanks for the reply! Originally the CBU did not come out far enough from the wall and terminated at the masonry wall, which is why I took it down, because it didn't make sense to end the waterproofing (building wrap) at that point.

Option 1
Red Guard- Red
Gray-1/2" HardieBacker
Blue- TapCon
Green- Hardiebacker Screw
Brown-1x2 Firring
Black- Stud/Masonry

Option 2 (building Wrap)
Gray- 1/2" HardieBacker
Blue- Tap Con
Green-HardieBacker Screw
Brown 1x2 Firring
Black/Yellow- Building Wrap
Black-Stud/Masonry Wall
Bring the Building Wrap Down to the Flange and silicone adhesive it, like I've done with the other walls.

Both of these options should bring the CBU over the flange. I could add shims between the Masonry Wall and CBU if needed. Is option 2 viable?
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:38 PM   #6
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Shower Wall Waterproofing


I like option #1 better, but since you already have the other walls done with wrap, I don't see why option 2 wouldn't work.
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:15 PM   #7
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Shower Wall Waterproofing


Quote:
Originally Posted by Blondesense View Post
How are you planing on tying the CBU to the shower receptor?
Take a look at the illustration if the first post of this thread.

Shimming Durock

Does your CBU come out at least as far as your flange? It's hard to tell from the pics.
If not, I would recommend you stop and figure this out before proceeding any further.
You may find fixing this (bringing the CBU down to the flange) solves your masonry problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blondesense View Post
I like option #1 better, but since you already have the other walls done with wrap, I don't see why option 2 wouldn't work.
Thanks for taking a look at the pictures. Option 1 is definitely water proof and the way I would've done it, but my builder's drywall sub, put it up. I realized, they left a gap between the building wrap right about mid height when I was looking thru some of my pictures from that day.

Anywho here's what I think my install will look like. Is that bead of silicone inside the building wrap correct or should it only be the one on the outside (relative to the building wrap/yellow)?

Also is overlapping the building wrap seams the correct way to tie in the inner corner?

Gray-hardiebacker
Green-hardiebacker screw
Black-masonry/stud
Black triangle- Recepter Tile Flange
Pink-Wood Shim (Lattice/Cedar)
Yellow-Building Wrap
Brown-Firring (1x2)
Red- Silicone/RTV
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:03 PM   #8
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When I did my shower I used a product similar to RedGard made by Mapei for waterproofing.
Through my research I found that what you are doing is an acceptable way. It never made sense to me though, since although the wrap stops moisture from direct contact with the studs, the caulking keeps it trapped between the CBU and wrap. ???

I don't know the correct way to caulk that area, but your diagram looks good to me.
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:22 PM   #9
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Shower Wall Waterproofing


Quote:
Originally Posted by Blondesense View Post
When I did my shower I used a product similar to RedGard made by Mapei for waterproofing.
Through my research I found that what you are doing is an acceptable way. It never made sense to me though, since although the wrap stops moisture from direct contact with the studs, the caulking keeps it trapped between the CBU and wrap. ???
Novice speculation alert:

What if, in a gutted alcove, there is room to bring the tar paper down past the flange to the bottom plate? If one stops the fir stripping an inch above the flange (better than touching the flange with wood...), the paper could be tucked just below the firring in and against the original stud and continue to the floor without touching the caulk. And I don't think an inch or so would make a difference to the stability of the CB...?

Does this seem like a viable (if not overkill) way of protecting the wood?


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Last edited by rightit; 06-21-2012 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rightit View Post
Novice speculation alert:

What if, in a gutted alcove, there is room to bring the tar paper down past the flange to the bottom plate? If one stops the fir stripping an inch above the flange (better than touching the flange with wood...), the paper could be tucked just below the firring in and against the original stud and continue to the floor without touching the caulk. And I don't think an inch or so would make a difference to the stability of the CB...?

Does this seem like a viable (if not overkill) way of protecting the wood?


Attachment 52804
You want water hitting the tar paper to drain into the pan, not onto the floor underneath the pan where it'll eventually rot the bottom plate of the wall or ruin the flooring. That diagram is an incorrect installation of waterproofing for a shower wall. The tar paper needs to come over the flange directing the water into the pan.

Last edited by jimbriam; 06-21-2012 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:14 PM   #11
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Shower Wall Waterproofing


Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbriam View Post
You want water hitting the tar paper to drain into the pan, not onto the floor underneath the pan where it'll eventually rot the bottom plate of the wall or ruin the flooring. That diagram is an incorrect installation of waterproofing for a shower wall. The tar paper needs to come over the flange directing the water into the pan.
But, as Blondesense points out, the silicone bead between the bottom of the CB and the flange will trap moisture between the CB and paper.

It's hard to determine the safest method.

Apologies for hopping into your thread. I'll have to do some homework and post a few of my own threads.

Thanks.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
That doesn't look like fun---

I would skip the builder wrap (tar paper) in that section.


For water proofing --paint on a surface membrane like Redguard by Custom--

--Mike--
This method makes for a waterproof wall without all the debate--

Use Red Guard or Hydroban ( use a mini roller and paint brush---

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