Shower Renovation

Shane68

Hi Guys and Gals
Im about to tackle quite a huge diy task for myself. Im sure i will have many questions in the near future but for now my first question is...once i have removed the old wall tiles in the shower is it a MUST to change the cement board that the tiles where on...OR... should i look at the condition of the board?.... Any ideas how to get the old tile adhesive off the board??

Regards
Shane

oh'mike

Yes--rip down the old board---you need to change the mixer valve and straighten any bad studs--insulate if needed--

Board is cheap--and needs to be flat---do start fresh.

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sdsester

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joecaption

If you do it as Mike suggest you'll tahnk your self in the long run.
Much better to work having a perfectly flat wall, and less work then trying to get off that old mastic that never should been used in the first place.

DO not skip the step of checking the flatness of the wall it's self. A simple piece of brick string pulled tight can help find low or high studs.

KevinPh

Removing the tile usually causes deterioration of the cement board, so starting again is a good idea.

mae-ling

Mason line or chalk line also work well.
I put a spacer (1x4) piece under the ends, then use a spacer on each stud.
Usually the worse of the bow is in the middle of the stud. but check near the top, middle and just above the shower pan.

Can also rip a piece of plywood to say about 4" wide and cut to fit between your walls.
Use the factory edge as a straight edge. Do longest walls first then shorter ones (re-cut length)

Shane68

Thanks guys for the input....Mike a guy at work said the same thing....board is cheap and should rather change it......problem is i have never replaced any of this type of board in my life before.....i dont doubt that i could do it being a tradesman ...just not in the building field....so im a bit nervous about doing this for the first time. But im always game for new ventures...and now that i have new friends who are experts @DIY chatroom :P BRING IT ON.

oh'mike

Good luck--Post a picture of what you have--you will want to cut the old stuff out in such a way that the tike will hide the joint between the old and the new---

A Sawsall with the blade installed upside down id the method many people use to make a shallow skim cut----done correctly you can cut just the old backer and not touch the studs or plumbing.

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BigJim

Mike, are you saying to use the back of the blade to score the durock?

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Jim

oh'mike

No---instal the blade upside down --and you are able to set the back side of the tool flat against the wall---allowing a very shallow skim cut---

With the blade in right side up---the big handle forces you to make a plunge cut----increasing the likelihood of hitting studs--plumbing and electrical---

Get your Sawsall out and try it----with practice you can cut drywall and not even score the back paper----

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oh'mike

Looks like I need to add more words to my instructions---

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Shane68

Hi Guys thanks to those for their advise and input so far....im busy rounding up the tools and goods i will need to do this....what size adhesive trowel for the floor tiles and what size for the wall tiles....8mm for floor and 6mm for wall??

BigJim

I got ya, I have always installed my blades that way for that very reason. Sorry, I just thought there was a new way I hadn't heard of yet.

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Jim

rbingram

I am remodeling a tub into a walk in tile shower. I have ripped out the old fiberglass tub, rebuilt walls to form the noew shower and done plumbing as well. Due to bad advice, I made the mortar bed for the shower pan before installing the vinyl liner, then installed the liner behind the last peices of backer board. I am aware that this is not sound and I want a pro to come and make sure that the shower is tile ready. So I need him to fix my mistakes and get it sealed and lined properly and ready to tile. How much should I pay???

oh'mike

I doubt if any pro will touch your work without removing it and starting over---

Post pictures of what you have---in a new thread---and we will see if the base can be saved----there are paint on waterproofings like Hydroban by Latacret that might salvage that job---Mike----

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