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Old 02-16-2011, 10:57 AM   #1
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Shower door size question


So I was going to regrout the master shower, which has since turned into a retiling job, with the wife's permission. I think I've read enough to where I can tackle this with confidence. I do have a question about my shower door opening though.

Before I tore out the tile, I was going to replace the shower door. My opeing is just about 41" even. I was looking at replacement bypass doors, and the listed openings for everything I looked at (without going custom) was 42-47". Will this inch make a big deal in the door install/operation? Will the doors just overlap more, or is this something I NEED to address. At this point, I really don't want to extend the opening.

Also, I want a waterproof tile, without the high gloss glaze found on glazed ceramic tiles. Is porcelain my only choice, or can I use/find a glazed ceramic without the high gloss? Maybe just a regular ceramic and seal it? Thanks for all input.
Mike

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Old 02-16-2011, 12:01 PM   #2
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The door---call the manufacturer----they will give you the best answer.

You are a bit confused about tile--I think. In a shower all of the ceramic tiles are 'waterproof' enough.

The glaze on the face of ceramic will keep water out of the body of the tile--

The only time you really need to be concerned with the absorbency of the body of the tile is in a freeze/thaw situation,like an outside porch.

If you are looking for a waterproof wall---use a paint on membrane (Red Guard or Hydroban)

or an applied membrane like Schluters Kerdi----Ask away----Mike---

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Old 02-16-2011, 04:15 PM   #3
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would the redgard go on over my Hardibcker, under the thinset? This isn't really necessary, is it? More erring on the side of caution, correct? Thanks for the input .
Anyone else can weigh in on the door question?
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:18 PM   #4
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You are right---the waterproofing is like an insurance policy--at $6o to $100 I use it.

If you use a cement backer board and modified thin set-(the powder) and caulk well you should be fine.

However,for the cost of the waterproofing,I suggest you do it.
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:22 PM   #5
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The door---If that is a swing out door with a small side panel---You will mot make the thing work--the door will bump into the side panel.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:15 PM   #6
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A properly built shower should be waterproof prior to any tiles or grout installed.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Will this inch make a big deal in the door install/operation?
No. The top and bottom rails of bypass doors come slightly longer than the longest stated dimension the door will fit. In your case the door you mention will work but the doors themselves will overlap slightly when closed. No harm in that actually.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:13 AM   #8
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Bud--I may be mistaken---But I believe that door size typically uses a swinging door and a narrow fixed panel---Mike--
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:39 AM   #9
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Bud--I may be mistaken---But I believe that door size typically uses a swinging door and a narrow fixed panel---Mike--
That may be the case, I don't deal with doors any more, period. I was just going on the OP's comments about by-pass doors:
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My opeing is just about 41" even. I was looking at replacement bypass doors, and the listed openings for everything I looked at (without going custom) was 42-47".
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:11 AM   #10
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Shower door size question


no, Bud's right. It would be a non-swingout door. The kind that have two glass panels that overlap. I didn't think my "issue" would cause any major problems, but I figured I'd ask anyway. I'd hate to find out once it's in place. Thanks a ton guys.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:12 AM   #11
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Good catch Bud--if that's the case I was mistaken---By pass will work--
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:16 AM   #12
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one more question while I'm at it...the vapor barrier going up behind the Hardibacker, this extends to about an inch below, in front of the shower base nailing flange, then gets tiled over at this low area, right?
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:41 AM   #13
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I believe so---I waterproof the board so a vapor barrier is not needed or desirable (creates a wet sandwich)--Mike---
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Old 02-18-2011, 10:07 AM   #14
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I believe so---I waterproof the board so a vapor barrier is not needed or desirable (creates a wet sandwich)--Mike---

Is this standard practice? Not doubting your methods, I've just never heard of it being done this way before. Can anyone else weigh in on Redgard vs vapor barrier behind cement board?
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Old 02-18-2011, 10:15 AM   #15
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Hit the search bottom--look for waterproofing a shower wall--

If you make the shower water proof before the tile is installed--How can it fail?

for about $100 you can create a waterproof shower wall system,using Hydroban--less with Red Guard-

Kind of cheap insurance policy in my eyes.---Mike---

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