Remodeling a Bath for Disabled Access on a Budget

tev9999 · 02-06-2012, 09:08 PM

Met with a contractor (family friend) today and he is going to frame and drywall the modification and also install the pocket door. I ripped down the drywall and some of the studs in the closets. Never knew the bathroom ceiling was only 7' in that house until I got the outside drywall off.

I stopped when I hit more framing that I expected and I'm not sure what it is holding up - so I will let him figure it out.

We changed the "wall inside a wall" next to the pocket door to normal 2x4 framing. Should be plenty of support for tile and a grab bar. I'm also going to keep the plumbing on that wall

Will probably wire an extra light while everything is open. Never had a exhaust fan, and I don't want to deal with venting out the roof right now. That can wait until the roof needs to be done.

Unless someone can convince me it is a horrible idea, I'm going to run the drain into the 3" cleanout of the soil stack. Knowing how fast my tub can go from free flowing to 4" of water backed up, I don't want to deal with a flooded bathroom due to undersized pipes.

A few things I didn't think about at first that might help others.

- Get a "Bagster" from HD or Lowes before you start. We have already filled two, but much of that was carpet torn out of the rest of the house.
- A wheelbarrow or other cart is necessary to move stuff.
- Gloves. Lots of Gloves. I use the dollar store leather/canvas ones and they work fine, even though they don't last long.

tev9999 · 02-08-2012, 09:39 AM

Thinking ahead to the tile. I think I've settled on an American Olean line from Lowes. Looks good and fits my budget. It is available in 12x12, 6x6, 2x2 mosaic, 2x6 BN and 3x12 BN.

Bathroom floor will be 12x12.
Shower walls will be 6x6 or 12x12. Leaning towards 6x6. Wall tile will terminate with bullnose at corner of left wall and equal point on right wall, in line with curb face.
Shower floor will be mosaic.

The curb is confusing me. Should I use bullnose on the front and back to provide a safe top edge, with cut 12" floor tiles on the top? What about mosaics on the top? Or mosaic on all sides?

Since I want this to be "elderly friendly", I'm thinking there needs to be a visual difference between the curb and adjacent floors. Maybe use a darker tile for the floor vs. walls and curb?

Any ideas?

**oh'mike** · 02-08-2012, 09:54 AM

I usually have a Corian or granite top cut for the top of the curb---I think using cap tiles on the top is a weak design---I've done it with caps many times without issue--but I prefer a one piece top.

tev9999 · 02-08-2012, 10:12 AM

Wouldn't granite be very slippery if someone were to step on it?

**oh'mike** · 02-09-2012, 08:24 AM

Possibly---but I never had any one bring that up---

tev9999 · 02-17-2012, 09:21 AM

The pocket door is installed, shower is framed, drywall back up and mostly mudded/sanded - that should be done today. I've also got the supply lines run to the shower and the sink drain fittings cleaned up.

Tonight's project is to get the shower faucet and shower head plumbing sweated in and adjust the sink plumbing to fit inside the new vanity. I did offset the controls from the showerhead to make it easily accessible from the outside. I'll also turn the water back on to check for leaks before I close up the shower walls.

I'm planning a marathon weekend to get as much done as possible on the shower, tile and floor. New carpet is being installed throughout the house on Thursday. I want as much of the dirty work done as possible so I don't mess it up. I would like to have the floor installed by then to let the carpet installers make the best transition possible from the hallway, but was going to put that down last and focus on the shower pan. Decisions decisions....

Is it smart to not have a threshold at the door? I think the carpet and tile will end up being about the same height. I was going to edge the tile floor with a metal strip. My kitchen worked out quite well that way. The subfloor is flat between the two rooms. Bath will have hardibacker + tile. Hall will be berber+pad.

I like the idea of a single piece granite cap for the curb. Is that something any granite shop can cut me out of a scrap? Any idea on a rough cost? I'm going to go with 2x3s as my curb base, so my finished curb should be about 4.5 x 42 inches. Is that by any chance a stock sill/threshold size that can be cut to length?

concretemasonry · 02-17-2012, 10:40 AM

One thing to consider is adding grab bars. Especially if you have tile floor and water and you never know what could happen.

I needed a safe, accessible bathroom since I was going the have a new hip and two new knees(one was a total rebuild and lengthrning of the Tibia). I went to Home Despot (intentional misspelling) a got 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" brushed stainless grab bars for the shower like you see in handicapped bathrooms. Because I like the look I replaced all my towel racks with them and they were more useful and attractive than the Kohler stuff they sell. Now my wife wants them in the other bathroom for towel bars.

They are multi-purpose (hold up to 300# or 500#), don't rust or water spot and easy to install with toggle bolts and a bit of silicone for sealing.

Dick

tev9999 · 02-17-2012, 01:09 PM

Already had the contractor install blocking for grab bars.

What toggle bolts work well for them? One wall by the toilet has not been opened and there is no blocking.

tev9999 · 02-21-2012, 07:37 AM

Progress continues to be slower than hoped (the usual), but it is coming along. Plumbing is done and hardibacker is on the floor ready for tile. Shower pan is up next, but I can't push back the carpet install any longer. Guess I am going to have to start being careful about what I track through the house.

Managed to find a clearance deal on 12x18 full body porcelain tiles at under $1.50 a square foot, so that will be the tile for the floors and walls (mosaic in the shower pan). Any hints on pattern, grout width, etc. for such a small room and big tile?

**oh'mike** · 02-21-2012, 07:52 AM

Invest in a roll of carpet protector---I looks like a 24" wide roll of Scotch tape---

12x18 tiles are a challenge to set--the bigger the tile the more difficult it is to avoid 'lippage' (high corners/ uneven heights)

I suggest you use leveling clips if you go that route--QEP | Lash
Tuscan Leveling System - Flooring Picture Post - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

tev9999 · 02-23-2012, 07:38 AM

I've found the deck mud calculator and have my topping mix and sand, but have some questions I have not seen answered anywhere.

Where do you normally mix the deck mud? Initially I figured I would do it outside and bring it in with a wheelbarrow, but since new carpet will be down I'm thinking it would be easier to do in the bathroom. The room is empty, so I have a 9x5' space to work in. Hardibacker is on the floor so I really don't have to worry about making a mess.

Is there a better option than a wheelbarrow? Should I get a large mixing tub and just work straight from the floor? Looks like my preslope will require about 75 pounds of mix, and the top layer a little over 200 (without water).

How much water to start with? I know you go by consistency, but what is a good starting point to make sure I don't spend hours mixing in a cup at a time or start with soup?

Is one 60 pound bag of mortar mix enough for a 42" curb.

Does temperature matter? The mix has been stored in the garage (low 30s this week). Should I bring it in to warm up?

Thanks again.

**oh'mike** · 02-23-2012, 07:46 AM

Powder don't care how cold they get--

Just use buckets to carry the mixed mud--

Mix on a sheet of plywood or right on the garage floor or in a wheel barrow ---make a mountain---create a depression in the center (like a volcano)---fill depression with water--shovel dry powder from the sides ,into the wet center---add more water--repeat--mix with shovel--

Mix well--dry pockets are a job killer---

**oh'mike** · 02-23-2012, 07:49 AM

Shower - Kitchen & Bath Remodeling - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum

Another member has a similar project going---

tev9999 · 03-01-2012, 10:40 AM

Got the preslope done successfully and the shower pan liner in. I ended up having to replace the liner as I messed up an outside corner cut and didn't want to risk a leaky patch for $30. Was more careful the second time.

I want to do an overnight leak test, but can't seem to figure out an easy way to plug the drain. I know I could use a 2" inflatable test ball, but I don't really want to spend $40 for something I will never use again. Tried a toilet ball but that still allowed some water to get past. I did fill the pan and then let it drain - no leaks on the supply or drain side, so I'm happy there. Only risk is that there is a pinhole in the liner I can't see.

I also need some way to cut tile. I am working with 12x18 full body porcelain. Will a sub-$100 wet tile saw from Harbor Freight, Lowes, HD, etc. survive 150 square feet of cuts? I don't expect any curved cuts other than the shower head/controls. It may take me a few days, so renting a better saw may get expensive. Checked craigslist and don't see anything worthwhile in the area. Any other suggestions?

tev9999 · 03-14-2012, 09:25 AM

Latest update. I'm slowly progressing. Ended up renting a tile saw for the weekend and got a good rate of $80. I realized I messed up on the drain and left it a little too high. I left an allowance for much more thin set than I need for 2x2 tiles. I'm probably 1/16" high, so I added a skim coat of thinset which I will now need to smooth with a rub brick, but should be OK. Should not have tried to fix late Saturday night while tired and frustrated.

The shower walls (except bottom course and shower head tile) and room floor are in. I was very happy I managed to cut the hole for the shower faucet on the first try. I grouted the floor yesterday so I can at least get the toilet and vanity in.

I am going with a marble shower curb cap and matching threshold I found in stock at a local tile shop. Of course someone stepped on the first threshold that was sitting out of the way in a bedroom waiting for installation and had to get another. Then I stepped on the replacement two minutes after setting it and cracked it.

It is barely noticeable so I left it and will deal with it later if necessary.

I also learned to be sure to close the window BEFORE you tile yourself to the far end of the room. The joys of home remodeling....