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Old 06-08-2016, 12:01 PM   #1
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Painting on Cement backer board with screws


We re-installed backer board in the shower area in the ceiling.
Would like to just paint it and not tile it.
The screws are not countersinked.
Should we countersink the screws? i know most sites i read said you should not countersink backboard scews.

Any ideas to prep the board for painting? would like to have a smooth painted surface. Can we use joint compound to smooth over screws?

Any advice would help.

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Old 06-08-2016, 02:26 PM   #2
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Re: Painting on Cement backer board with screws


If you are not kidding.

Counter sink the screws. Fiber tape and thinset any joints. Skim coat with thinset (textured if you like). Paint with a cement paint.

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Old 06-08-2016, 06:34 PM   #3
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Re: Painting on Cement backer board with screws


Or ...

If the bath is small enough, you can cover the entire ceiling with a single piece of "FRP," a fiberglass reinforced plastic, with a pebble texture. It's often found in commercial restrooms; available in white, almond, and grey. Attach with a contact cement.
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:06 AM   #4
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Re: Painting on Cement backer board with screws


i dont know where u live but why would you put cement board on the ceiling on ceiling. it is not getting any water from the shower. i would put green board and mud the joints and paint over the sanded finish.

but u did put cement board already just mud the joints, counter sink the screw and do a skim coat on the board 1-2 time and sand it, than paint
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Old 06-16-2016, 06:31 PM   #5
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Re: Painting on Cement backer board with screws


A few more notes about your intended project ....

I see no issue with countersinking the screws - save for the way the cement board will quickly dull any countersink!

Cement board is far more moisture and mold resistant than green board. I wouldn't use green board anywhere in a shower; there's too much challenge from condensation and humidity. Indeed, one might even consider installing the ceiling at a slight angle, to encourage condensation to drain.

Some alternatives to the cement board are other tile backer boards (Denshield and Fiberock are two examples). They lack the paper face that is the 'Achilles' heel" of green board.

Ready-mixed joint compound will also support mold growth. If you're going to use a "naked" board product, you should use a "hot" or setting type joint compound and mesh tape.

After you tape and skim-coat the board, I suggest a waterproof shellac primer, topped with a gloss paint.
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