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Old 01-16-2009, 12:56 PM   #16
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moldy wet sheetrock at base of bathtub


You did the right thing by ripping everything out and fixing the root of the problem and making sure you are getting rid of all the mold. You should be able to come in around your budget.

I would start by replacing the rotten floor so you have a fresh solid surface to work from. Then i would look into replacing the insulation that has mold on it, it won't cost much and then you won't have to worry about the mold ever growing again. Is there any other framing that is rotten/moldy? If so i would try to replace that and re frame your wall you ripped out. Then you can set your tub, you will have to use shims(plastic ones that can't rot) and probably a bed of mortar underneath the tub to support it. Then do your plumbing, drain and supply for the tub. The drain should be fairly easy since it was already there. The supply lines are pretty simple if you are using pex, the only problem is if you don't have the crimper and it's not in your budget. You probably could rent one but that means you are under pressure to return it, do you know anyone you could borrow one from? You will just need to run pex to your diverter. They have a go/no go plate for pex, costs about 5 bucks and it will tell you if your crimp is good or not, rather than find out the hard way. Then you should be able to drywall, i would use dens armor so you don't have any more problems with mold. A little more expensive per sheet but for a project like this you are probably talking about 30-40 bucks difference which is well worth it knowing you won't have anymore mold. Don't forget to wire/install your vent fan in the ceiling and if it's in the shower it will need a gfci protection. Once the drywall is finished you can install your surround and paint and finish your plumbing. I might have forgot a couple of steps but this is a good overview. If you can rip that out in a day you should be able to do this no problem with the help from the guys on here.

As for your budget-You should be able to find a cheap tub/surround combo from Lowe's for around 300-350, diverter for around 100, framing/drywall for around 150, which leaves 200 for plumbing and misc. So you should be right around your budget. good luck

p.s.- another good source for information is youtube, whenever i try something new i will search on there for videos of what i am about to do. Some videos aren't that informative but others will give you an idea of what your about to do.


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Old 01-17-2009, 10:38 AM   #17
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Thanks for the information Ponch! I have good friend who is significantly older than me and has been installing flooring and carpet for a long time. He came over and cut out all the bad spots in the floor and put in a piece of 3/4 inch cdx. I noticed he cut way back to the next floor joist and put the new board 1/2 way over the joist and almost butted it up to the old board that was good. He said this is for three reasons. 1, get rid of ALL mold spores not seen. 2, structural strength 3, he left a small gap between the old and new so they wont rub and squeek. Sounds great to me. He said the floor is almost level and small enough that he suggested I put in the wall and tub, get that all done and than he will come back and remove the toylet and put down a subfloor and put back the toylet than put in a piece of vynal. I will put some pictures of the new underlayment patch later today.

Does any one know if the wall between the bath and sink should be 2x4 or 2x6? It has all the shower plumbing in it but I will not be putting the fan back in.

Again, thanks for all help!
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Old 01-17-2009, 10:44 AM   #18
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If you can get 2x6 in there, use it. It will only give you more room to mount the tub mixing valve and if you have to run the vent stack through it too
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Old 01-17-2009, 10:56 AM   #19
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Looks like a one piece. I don't think you'll be able to get it in the room.


So, as expected, the only mold was a little behind that rotten piece of drywall. Could have just replaced that, cleaned up, painted, recaulked for less than $40. Thought you didn't want to spend a lot on this? Looks like you have to now. LOL

Jogr, I was wondering, arent the one pieces designed for remodels and door widths taken into consideration? If not than do you have any suggestions? Oh and you are very right about the quick and easy fix and I realize that I even came across as that was my only option also. Thanks for the advice!

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Old 01-17-2009, 11:04 AM   #20
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If you can get 2x6 in there, use it. It will only give you more room to mount the tub mixing valve and if you have to run the vent stack through it too
Nice! I noticed two layers of sheetrock between the old wall and tub when I took it out. I wonder how you measure for the new wall. The sheetrock is still on the exteror walls and I am still unclear if it needs removed. Its in good shape, greenboard, and has little to no mold. But I havent figured out how the tub goes in....over the sheetrock? under it? I assume the 2 existing walls, the new wall, the old rock and new rock all need to be perfectl or the tub eithor wont fit or will be too small!?!?!
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Old 01-17-2009, 11:19 AM   #21
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Check out the installation instructions on the tub itself. Most even come with illustrations.
If you buy a 60" tub, the rough opening should be 60". The surround will depend on what you buy.
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Old 01-17-2009, 12:06 PM   #22
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Probably the easiest for you would be a 3 piece surrond, back, side, side. If you choose this route you will put the tub right to the studs and then use adhesive to install the surround right to the studs.
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Old 01-17-2009, 12:12 PM   #23
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Probably the easiest for you would be a 3 piece surrond, back, side, side. If you choose this route you will put the tub right to the studs and then use adhesive to install the surround right to the studs.
So I should romve the sheetrock that is on the walls? All the way to the cieling?
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Old 01-17-2009, 12:56 PM   #24
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before you do that i would pick out which tub/surround you are going to get and read the manufacturer directions to be sure. I have seen ones that install on top of drywall and ones that screw right to the studs and then the drywall buts up to the surround. It would be best for you to pick your surround out and then read the directions.

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Old 01-17-2009, 11:40 PM   #25
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So I took some very big leaps today. I seem to like this remodeling stuff. I found a nice vanity but wrong color on Craigslist. http://anchorage.craigslist.org/hsh/988921514.html We bought it for $50 and than went to the hardware store and purchased some sanding stuff and paint. Were going to attempt to sand it and paint it perl white. I am also going to put up a mirrored medicine cabinet if I can find a good used one. I put myself on a budget of $250 for puting in a cabinet and vanity. Were only in about $125 and now we own an electric sander when its done.
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Old 01-17-2009, 11:59 PM   #26
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A few more pictures... I also went to home depot and found the bath and surround. Its $550 here in Alaska. $389 everywhere else. Note to self, small print reads online prices "SLIGHTLY" higher in Alaska. Seems as if the tub does not come with any plumbing hardware, so that will be another $150 for the drain kit and the hot/cold water lines and connections...Faucets are a wholenother story!!!!! The cheap ones are $200!!! Sounds like an Ebay find to me.. I am going to rip out a wall between the laundry room and bathroom as well and later I will frame in a door and laundry area adding space to the laundry room and eliminating a corner and adding a real door instead of a sliding sheat of wood. This is fun. Theres a ton of cool stuff I can do all winter inside in the warmth. Anyway, It will be better than when I started.

EDIT 01/18/2009 You can see the size difference between the new vanity and the old one in the first pic.
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Last edited by utilitylocator; 01-19-2009 at 12:05 AM. Reason: picture identification
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:10 PM   #27
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moldy wet sheetrock at base of bathtub


Glad your having fun. And in your first post you said "not a lot of skills", looks like you found all sorts of hidden skills. Sounds like you really pay to live in Alaska, hopefully you can find some stuff on ebay so you don't blow your budget to bad.

I just noticed something in your pics. It looks like there is an outlet or junction box behind where your tub goes? If that is a junction box it would be considered in accessible once the tub goes in. I know you said that there is no inspector but if something would ever go bad with the connections in that box you would have to rip your whole tub out to get to it. I would try to find out where those wires come from and re route them so that box is accessible or eliminate that box all together.

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Old 01-19-2009, 12:01 AM   #28
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So alot has happened in tha e last few days. We sanded, primed and painted the cabinet and splash boards. I knocked out the wall that were roughed in origionaly between the laundry and bath. It will be much bigger now and more usable space. Got down the rest of the sheetrock as well. Lookn great so far.

I came across some real shoty framing in the wall and I see that there was some major piecing together in the original construction. I have some challenges ahead of me in seaming together the two rooms as one.
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Last edited by utilitylocator; 01-19-2009 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 01-19-2009, 02:42 PM   #29
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Utilitylocator...Is that an outlet behind the tub? Looks like it's coming along good.

I see why your enjoying this project so much with that "tool" in your second pic in your last post!
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Old 01-19-2009, 02:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by ponch37300 View Post
Utilitylocator...Is that an outlet behind the tub? Looks like it's coming along good.

I see why your enjoying this project so much with that "tool" in your second pic in your last post!

lol..

EDIT 1-22-09 The second pic was deleted. A six pack of beer isnt a "tool"...lol


Last edited by utilitylocator; 01-22-2009 at 11:21 AM.
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