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rightit 03-11-2012 07:05 PM

Liner and Durock placement
1 Attachment(s)
I'm about to line my shower alcove with PVC liner and durock. The pdf file for my cast iron receptor shows durock placement (see image), but not liner. My assumption is that the liner should drop down inside the flange slightly lower than the durock. Is this assumption correct? If so:

1. How far below the durock should the liner end?
2. Should I silicone the liner to the receptor after the durock is in and before the tile install?

Any pointers beyond the scope of my question welcome.


Attachment 47350

cleveman 03-11-2012 08:28 PM

what kind of cast receptor do you have?

rightit 03-11-2012 08:41 PM

1 Attachment(s)
A Kohler Kathryn 9025:

Attachment 47364

oh'mike 03-12-2012 06:05 AM

What is the PVC liner for? Never hear of building a shower that way.

Typically the Durrock is set to the top edge of the receptor---the gap filled with modified thinset--seams covered with tilers mesh---very thin coat of thinset---then paint on waterproofer is used--Hydroban or Red Guard.

Let us know if you are doing something different.

cleveman 03-12-2012 08:36 PM

That is a nice shower receptor. I priced them once and they were too much for me. But it's good to keep the prices high so that the site-made shower pans don't seem so expensive.

I'm going to assume that those are the Kohler instructions you posted. It looks like they want you to shim out along the wall, but they give you no dimension, such as 1/4, 3/8, 1/2", etc. I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest sheathing the walls with 1/2 plywood, then the tilebacker of your choice. This will give you the "shim" you need. I would bring the tilebacker down on the receptor. You could put a small bead of caulk down, and bed the tilebacker down in it. Make sure none squirts out when you set the the tilebacker on it, or wipe it off.

Then one would normally have a grout joint between the first row of tile and the cast receptor, and this joint would be caulked.

You, however, are talking about a pvc liner. If you must use a pvc liner, I would suggest leaving it up a 1/16th or less and caulking this gap. I only recommend leaving a small gap because the cast may expand a bit when it is hot? Or something else may move a bit. But you definitely want to seal up the bottom where it meets the cast.

I would suggest tiling the wall instead of using a pvc liner. It just doesn't seem right to put a pvc liner on a receptor as nice as that. I thought those things were close to $1000.

oh'mike 03-12-2012 08:51 PM

Don't use plywood behind the backer that needs to breathe --I didn't see any pvc liner in the instructions.

Best method will be to add a surface waterproofer---as to shimming--call Kohler and ask--their help line is good.

How you will match drywall to a shimmed out shower wall bothers me--

rightit 03-12-2012 09:17 PM

Well, a change of plans now. I was told by someone (whose opinion I generally trust) that the PVC shower liner was the way to go. But, given the reactions here, I talked to my tile guy and he liner, just durock, floated seams and RedGard. That means I'm stuck with $100 worth of Shower liner (apparently what they use to make onsite shower pans). But I'd rather do it right, and that's what I get for jumping too fast.

Cleveman: The liner was to go behind the durock. Tile was planned all along. As to the receptor, it is a good one, but I bought it from a local supplier for just under $700. I wanted something to last my lifetime :yes:.

Mike: Thanks for the heads up. If you hadn't expressed concern, I might have moved forward with the liner. And I will contact Kohler to verify the shimming.

This forum has helped me in many ways. Thanks to both of you for your inputs.


oh'mike 03-13-2012 06:35 AM

Those cast iron receptors are nice----

You will do well with the Red Guard---that's the accepted method.

Craigs list or E-bay---sell the new membrane--

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