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Kitchen counter top question

2K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  BigJim 
#1 ·
I am replacing a kitchen counter top due to the fact that I was going to replace the sink and when I got the old one off, it was all disfigured where the taps were, and the new stainless steel sink wouldn't sit flat.
So I bought a new one and after lots of trial and error got a nice 45 cut into it for the corner. I still have to do the 2nd smaller piece that attaches onto it to complete a corner. But now I've noticed the new one is not exactly flat. it kind of bows downwards.
I'm hoping once I attach it to the cabinets, it will straighten out. But now I'm wondering about when I attach the second piece, what do I do if they don't line up nicely, which I will bet they don't, the way things go. How do I get them to flatten out when I attach them together?
 
#5 ·
You could get a biscuit joiner and cut some biscuits and grooves and glue them together. Usually with countertop corners there's a bolt system that is routered in underneath and pulls the two pieces together for a nice tight fit.
A good idea but if you don't want to spend the money for a tool you may never use again you could glue clamp and screw a strip of 3/4 plywood to the under side of the counter top already in place leaving 1/2 exposed for the other counter top to be glue and screwed to.
 
#3 ·
Hard to say and even harder to help without a picture.It sounds like you cut the 45 yourself?What kind of countertop is it.They are all not the same these days.If it is laminate from a box store(just a guess from your post)how did you cut it?
Need way more info to answer your question?
 
#6 ·
Hard to say and even harder to help without a picture.It sounds like you cut the 45 yourself?What kind of countertop is it.They are all not the same these days.If it is laminate from a box store(just a guess from your post)how did you cut it?
Need way more info to answer your question?
Yes, it is a laminate from a box store.

How did I cut the 45? well,,,, after a lot of trial and error, what I finally did was, use a compound miter saw for the front side. Then I meticulously clamped down a straight guide along the side of blade of the a skill saw, sitting in the cut I just made and lined it up with a rafters square on the other side. The I cut the middle. Then I used the compound saw again to do the side with the backsplash. Then I had to shave off a hairs width again on both ends to make it perfectly straight. I think the fact that the blades on the miter saw and my skill saw are slightly different widths caused a tiny tiny gap in the middle.

Yes, I can say it may have been easier to take it somewhere and get it done, but I really didn't think it was going to be as hard as it eventually turned out, and eventually was one of those things I couldn't let beat me.
 
#7 ·
You can straighten out your cut with a belt sander. Mark a straight edge really close to the edge then sand to the line. (leave the line) You can very slightly bevel under the edge so the top edge touches first, but it is ideal to sand square, as you can buckle the top when tightening the bolts.

You can buy seam filler to match your top, it will match and seal the joint.

Once you have the joints together snug fairly well the bolts, but not real tight, you will need to work kind a quick before the glue grabs. I would suggest a slow grab glue. Use a good hardwood piece of wood with a good square edge on one side or both. If one side of the top is slightly higher than the other, place the hardwood edge as close to the joint as possible but not over lapped. Hit the hardwood with a hammer until the halves are flush, then move on to another area until it is all flush. Then tighten the bolts pretty good but not over tight.

By the way, if you get any black marks on the top, you can use a speck of regular caulk on the mark then rub with your finger, the mark will come off with no trouble.
 
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