How do you make a shower base for a oversized shower
I am doing a shower in my basement and I want to pour my own base and tile it.. But I'm having trouble figuring out how to make the right slope to the drain.. I found the product quick pitch that is suppose to make the slope perfect but there kits are only made for the drain to be up to 36" from the wall and mine is Gunna be more than that.. It's pretty much a party shower.. So does anyone know how I could make the slope for a shower of this size
I have to go to work--this will give you something to think about until I get back
Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.
I made one 7 feet by 4 feet last year---handicap --big enough for patient and an attendant---
It's not to hard if you have a perimeter line drawn on the wall and the drain set to the right height---
The deck mud is the key---Mike----
I did this in our last house and the link provided by oh'mike is exactly what we did. Roofing felt, mesh, initial base then the pan liner and so forth. it worked excellent - and solid like you wouldn't believe! To get my pitch right, I just measured a chalk line around the edge to get the 1/4 inch per foot drop and worked in the mud by hand. Now, that being said, I think I had a bit more than the 1/4" per foot when it was all said and done, but again - good advice by oh'mike - the deck mud is the key.
Thanks for the replies... I'll try and give it a shot.. I'll post and let you know how it goes.. I might have some more questions about it soon
Given that this shower will be in a basement, I would urge you to cut out the concrete and aim for a no-curb shower. I've done this before in new construction.
You want to figure out all your elevations on paper first. Your first layer, the pre-slope, will be down enough from the finished floor to allow for the second layer. The first layer can be whatever minimum thickness allowed for the concrete mix you are using, or let's just say 3 1/2". So the middle will be deeper than the outside perimeter.
Then your second layer can be whatever thickness your material will allow again. If you go with the portland/sand damp mix, I believe the minimum is 1 1/2 thick. But I see no reason not to just go with concrete again if you want to. Most sack cretes have small aggregate. And this second layer will be flush with the existing slab.
So if you go with two 3 1/2" pours, your outside perimeter will have to begin 7" below the existing slab.
Make your shower pan a bit larger towards the open side than where you plan to have the curtain, if you plan on using a curtain. That way, any water which is outside the curtain will still hit the liner and go to the drain.
One can ask why use a liner at all, and there have surely been a few basement showers built without liners. Obviously, any water which goes down through the concrete just dissipates into the ground.
The only reason I can think of is that with a liner, there will be no direct connection between the dirt and your shower floor, so it will be more likely to remain mold free. And you can use the experience of putting in a liner so that you can build a shower pan on elevated floors in the future.
If you ever have to do this for new construction, just form up a box in the area where you want your shower pan. Leave this area unpoured, then come back later and pour it. You don't want to have to pour a pre-slope at the same time you are dealing with placing and finishing a basement floor.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:59 AM.|
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.