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miamicuse 04-17-2012 09:01 PM

Framing the spline for a shower door
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I am redoing the bathroom and combining the closet with the existing bathroom. What I need advice for is the rough framing for the shower door.

Here is a floor plan. The bathroom is surrounded by 8" thick concrete block walls on the north, west and south sides. The shower area is to the left and it is 5' x 7'2" from wall to wall.

In order to allow copper pipes, electrical conduits, 2" DWV lines, and depth tolerances of shower valves, I have to build a wood studded wall out of 2x3 PT lumber within the shower area.

On both ends of the shower door opening, I constructed a set of double 2x3 on each end (illustrated in gray). That means the distance between the shower door opening is now roughly 6' 8".

I don't know what size shower doors come in, and I don't want to spend extra for custom sized doors. So I am wondering what are the standard rough opening I need to frame to accept standard size shower door. If 6' doors are standard, does it mean I need to make up another 4" on each side?

One I built the rough opening, what do I do to frame the curb? Do I stack 3 pieces of PT 2x4 on the side to make is a 6x4 and attach cement boards to all sides to accept tiles? Or is it better to use 4" thick concrete blocks to build the curb?

oh'mike 04-18-2012 06:52 AM

Sorry my bookmarks are not working---You need to let us know what kind of pan you are building---

Some one here please post a link to "how to build a shower'--no need for PT wood or cinder block as the pan needs a liner--special drain--presloped sub floor --deck mud for the pan and mesh reinforced mud curb-

Pan should be able to hold water for 24 hours (flood test) before deck mud or tile is installed.

What waterproofing method are you planning?

Concrete--tile and grout are not waterproof----water that gets through those must be caught in a pan liner and directed to a drain benieth the deck mud---Mike---

As to the standard shower doors---get those numbers from a shower door company and frame to match their specs.

Blondesense 04-18-2012 12:32 PM

Here is the link Mike mentioned:

I'm no expert, having done only one shower. In my reading I read that PT lumber is not only unnecessary if the shower is built properly, it is not recommended since it will tend to warp and twist as it dries.

miamicuse 04-18-2012 03:51 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I am going to tile the entire shower area.

I will be using Schluter membranes for waterproofing.

oh'mike 04-19-2012 05:03 AM

Still no need for treated wood---

Do a flood test before tiling---mistakes can happen and they are cheaper and easier to fix before you tile.

miamicuse 04-19-2012 08:43 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Mike, I think there is some confusion as to what I was asking, or I am missing something.

I wasn't asking about the actual shower interior.

I intend to attach cement boards on all three sides on the wall, and on the floor build the preslope mortar bed. The Schluter membrane is my waterproofing.

My question is the shower door opening. Right now it is 7'2" wide. I don't think I want a 7' shower door, so I am framing a "spline" or short wall on each side to narrow the opening to about 6' for a 6' shower door. I used PT 2x4 for these two splines. I will then screw cement board over them and put Schluter on it.

My question then becomes what do I do to build up a curb. I want it to match the width of the two short splines in "look".

I know I can buy premake curbs. I can also use blocks, or I can stack a couple of PT lumbers attached to the concrete slab, then screw cement boards over it just like the walls, or I can just as easily form it and pack in solid concrete. I am weighing these options.

I understand the membrane would have to go against the curb, up and over.

oh'mike 04-20-2012 05:52 AM

I understand now----do not use pressure treated wood anny where in that area.

It is not needed and PT wood is so wet that the work will move and twist--thus damaging your tile.

The Schluter membrane will keep water away from the framing and curb---Mike---

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