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-   -   Frameless Glass Shower Install (http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/frameless-glass-shower-install-157104/)

lynxpilot 09-17-2012 02:59 PM

Frameless Glass Shower Install
 
My first post here (neat site by the way). First some background: Builder of our log house was not too handy and left a lot of sloppy workmanship. Floors and walls aren't square and materials were pretty cheap. Shower and toilet mounting leaked in both bathrooms and I'm currently remodeling bathroom 1 to rectify things as best as possible. I ripped out and replaced the subfloor, sealed the edges and poured QuikLevel, removed drywall and nailed sisters on all studs for square and level. I've just started putting Hardi on the floor for shower base and floor tile. Will then put it on the walls for the shower enclosure. I have this unit waiting to go: http://www.faucetdirect.com/vigo-vg6...-base/p1350423

Instructions say nothing about setting the base in mortar. I'm within about 1/16" to 1/8" of flat on the floor, but I'd like to make sure the imperfections in the base allow the shroud to make contact all the way around. Question #1: any problem supporting the pan and edges with a blob of mortar?

The shower system is this one: http://www.faucetdirect.com/pulse-p1...-head/p1789592

Looking at the shower unit, it would appear that gets mounted to the tile backer board and the tiles butt up against its sides (as opposed to getting mounted on top of the tile). Question 2: Does that sound right? Just use silicone caulk around the top and sides?

I ordered Schluter cove for the right angle on the shower wall tile and ordered Schluter trim for the tile edge transition back to drywall. Hoping that stuff works out OK.

Question 3: Any problem using 6 mil sheet to line the studs behind the shower wall, then RedGard the walls and floor of the enclosure once the Hardi is set?

Question 4: The shower drain is a 4 1/2" unit and the actual penetration in the shower base is 3 1/2". Would it be adviseable to wallow out the drain penetration in the floor any more than just enough to squeeze the nut on the bottom of the drain through? The shower base appears to have some contouring that tapers away from the hole for several inches. I'm trying to avoid the base pivoting on the drain contour and bending it up so it isn't the low point inside the shower.

Thanks in advance for any assistance,

David

FTF-Tom 09-21-2012 05:32 PM

1. I always set pans in mortar, nothing wrong with it at all.

2. Every frameless system I've installed gets mounted on the tile. What makes it appear to go on the backer board?

3. We don't put plastic behind shower walls on the theory that you want the hardie board to be able to get rid of any moisture that makes its way through. You should always seal with a waterproofing membrane. Take some mortar and fill any seams in your cement board before applying the membrane.

4. I don't see a problem with this, do whatever you need to make that base sit properly.

lynxpilot 09-21-2012 05:45 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks for taking the time to answer. On my second question, I was referring to the shower panel itself. The inlet fitting for the water supply is pretty close to the lip. See photo of the side of the shower panel. I can't see how else it would mount other than onto the cement board and tile up to the edge. I just want to make sure before I go hacking away at tiles and I'm not absolutely sure of the best way of sealing it.

David

oh'mike 09-21-2012 06:43 PM

I never installed one of those brand----can you track down the installation instructions and post them here?

Why did you choose that brand? Will you be able to get parts in 10 or 15 years like Delta or Moen?

I'd hate to see you building an orphan into your walls.

oh'mike 09-21-2012 06:45 PM

I just noticed that the mixing valve is not included---what brand of mixing valve are you using?

FTF-Tom 09-21-2012 07:13 PM

The installation instructions can be downloaded here: http://www.pulseshowerspas.com/downl...ions-Aloha.pdf

Looks like it does mount on the tile.

oh'mike 09-21-2012 07:16 PM

Thank you--I'll look---that kit is for the sprayer panel only---what mixer valve are you using?

lynxpilot 09-21-2012 07:21 PM

Product install instructions here: http://www.pulseshowerspas.com/downl...ions-Aloha.pdf

I bought a Grohe 35 015 000 mixer with single handle to mount next to the shower panel.

lynxpilot 09-21-2012 07:28 PM

Oh dear, I just figgered it out. The photo is the hand shower outie and the innie is inside the panel with a bunch of hose to reach the mixer. Duh. Thus would imply the whole thing is outside the tile. So my only tile penetrations should be the inlet hose and the screws for the mounting bracket. That sounds better.

oh'mike 09-21-2012 07:29 PM

You are starting from scratch with a new shower===that is just a conversion kit for an existing shower----That thing simply gets piped into the existing shower head threaded flange---then gets stuck to the tile with peal and stick tape.

Take a serious look at Deltas mixer with body sprays----you need to buy a mixer valve any way---why not get one designed for the job,from a company that will be around when you need parts?

You may be disappointed in that----Mike----

lynxpilot 09-21-2012 07:58 PM

oh'mike,

You're correct, I'm starting from scratch. I ripped out the original shower unit that was a stick-on enclosure the original owner/builder just stuck to the drywall. The mixer installed was a two-handle and I wanted to go to one. Per my post above, I bought a Grohe, and it was my understanding that Grohe made some top notch stuff, but I could be wrong. And now that I understand the Pulse unit more, I see what you mean about that they can be attached to the old showerhead plumbing. Since mine's gone now (thank goodness), I'll just take the hose to the mixer outlet.

And just for grins, the orignal shower drain was straight-piped to the septic header (read no trap) and the header has no vents (other than this shower and the one in the other bathroom) so maybe you can imagine what I'm dealing with here. I haven't quite got the electrical yet other than pulling the wall plates off, but it looks like he wired the light with a scrap piece of extension cord. Wall outlet is standard receptacle (not GFCI). The wall studs are oak that he cut from the property for the build, but he didn't dry any of his wood, so the entire house is sort of curvy-doodle. I had to sister just about every stud in the bathroom to be able to install backer and tile.

Thanks to both for your help.

David

oh'mike 09-21-2012 08:10 PM

DIYers come with a variety of skills---the last owner did not have many!

CabinCrisis 10-24-2012 12:14 AM

Lynxpilot,
I just had to chime in because I feel your pain!
I am in the middle of rebuilding the only bathroom in my cabin. Although my septic was vented (into the attic).After I got the walls down I found 4 hot uncapped wires that ran nowhere. The only one that ran to the light was made up of 8 pieces of wire taped together!
I'm starting to think they were trying to burn the place down.
Anyway, good luck with your cabin.


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