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-   -   Fixin' Mama's bathroom (http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/fixin-mamas-bathroom-92389/)

BigDan 01-15-2011 03:00 PM

Fixin' Mama's bathroom
 
Hey all, BigDan here, working of fixing my ma's bath. (Im assuming that everyone who clicked on the thread knows all of that by now). The plan is as follows.
-remove original tub and surround (done)
-Set new tub (done)
-1/2" backerboard on walls, covered with hydroban, tiles installed with 4xlt (254 for the glass)
-beer
-grout
-enjoy :thumbup:

I have it pretty much under control, just a few questions.

1-How to address the outside corners where the backerboard will meet the plaster? My assumption is to run the backerboard out just inside the finished surface of the wall, patch in the outside with drywall and install corner bead. Finish inside with mortar, outside with sheetrock compound. Am I right?

2-the american standard was a 16" tub and the new one is a 18" tub. The old drain is, well, old. It needs to be replaced, but I coulnd't seem to find a moen drain with enough height. The ones I looked at maxed out @ 14.5'' or so. Does moen make a taller tub drain? Part number if you have it.

3-How much play is there in the depth of the finished surface. I know I am going to have to shim out the backerboard to get over the tub lip, plus any shiming to make the wall plumb. So, how much play do I have before my plumber wants to kick me in the stones?

Thanks guys. :thumbup:

BigDan 01-15-2011 05:24 PM

Answered I question # 2. Moen 90480BN fits tubs up to 22"

oh'mike 01-15-2011 05:39 PM

A lot depends on the brand of mixer---most come with a plastic guide plate that is set to the finished wall size--Look for the instructions--or look on line--

Usually you have a good bit of play with the mixer cover plate and handle.

Sister in 2x4s as needed to bring the wall tight to the tub or to the level of the old plaster---

Thin rips of wood (cut on a table saw) could be stapled to the face of the existing framing instead of sistering in new 2x4s--

Remember to add blocking for a safety grab rail--mom might need one someday.--Mike--

BigDan 01-15-2011 06:04 PM

Good call Mike. I dug out the instructions and put on the plastic guide. I have roughly an inch from stud face to final depth to play with, which will be plenty.

Okay, two out of three solved.

oh'mike 01-15-2011 06:18 PM

The outside corner needs a corner bead--Finish with Durra bond (bag mix)

The inside corners--you said you were using Hydroban--use tilers mesh (looks like drywall mesh but it is alkali resistant) apply the Hydroban right over the mesh--its thick enough to plug up the holes in the mesh--after a couple of coats you are waterproof.

oh'mike 01-15-2011 06:21 PM

There is a plactic corner bead that is held in place with a spray adhesive (3M)

That's handy if you are concerned with nailing into the old plaster.

BigDan 01-15-2011 06:30 PM

Mike, you are the man. :thumbsup:

The plaster, while not fond of the recip saw, is not a concern with nails. It blew out away from the corner some, so I cut it back real neat a few inches. Im going to patch in with 3/8 drywall and finish it with the corner bead. I also have plenty of space to blend the patches into the wall, so it will look good.

I will post a pic when complete so you can see what you helped create. Thanks chief.

oh'mike 01-15-2011 07:27 PM

Thanks--If this is your first time using Hydroban--you will be pleased---I love the stuff!

Come back If you think of anything else.--Mike--

BigDan 01-15-2011 07:51 PM

Not the first time, actually. I've installed thousands of feet of it. That's why I was willing to pay the premium for it. :)

Now that I think of it, this will be my first time putting it on a wall.

Thanks again for the help.


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