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Old 09-14-2013, 06:05 PM   #16
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First Time Reno Attempt ...Venting


So the wall demo is practically all done. I've left small areas around switches and outlet because I still want power in there.....I'm wary of electricity a bit

The inside saw came in today so I got to it and is now ready for a coupler to fit the Schluter drain. I'm on the fence about the floor. Originally I was thinking about tiling over the ones I have on but I'm concerned about the height difference. I might just get some muscle to come in to do this part.....it's a small area though. One thing I noticed was that they tried to clamp the vanity drain to the concrete but the fixture came loose. I'm thinking that drain pipe needs to tilt a touch down so the water can move smoothly correct? If that's the case, this would explain why this drain was always so slow.
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:11 PM   #17
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First Time Reno Attempt ...Venting


So the wall demo is practically done. I've left some drywall on areas like outlets and switches. I want power in there but weary about using stuff just hanging. Electricity.....ehhhh......

Interestingly enough this vanity never drained well. Looking at the drain pipe it makes sense that the pipe should have a slight tilt downward so that water can flow easier correct? If so the bracket that was holding the pipe came loose and is now at best level.

The shower drain is cut with the inside saw that came in today and should be good for a coupler and a 2" extension for the Schluter drain.
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:23 PM   #18
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First Time Reno Attempt ...Venting


Now the ceiling of the first floor bathroom developed some water marks in the last few months. Wax ring gone bad on the upstairs bathroom? It's directly above it so.....no big deal.

I turn off the valve and get the excess water out. Remove the water from the tank and go to remove the left bolt.....then to the right.....there is no right???!!! It completely rusted and rotted out. Now I'm thinking this isn't a good sign. I try lifting the 2 piece tank and the top part is barely screwed on. Wow.....

I get the toilet off and I'm presented with dry rotted out subfloor around the flange. All of a sudden the first floor bathroom is on hold until this gets resolved. I got to cut out the rotten part I suppose and reinstall.

Anybody know the thickness of this plywood? I'll put some underlayment down since there wasn't any and tile over that. I wasn't suppose to do my son's room until next year!!!! Son of a......
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:45 PM   #19
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Cripes, if it ain't one thing, it's the next!

You might want to punt temporarily on the upper bath floor. Slap down some vinyl to get things buttoned up for now and come back later with a real floor.
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:42 PM   #20
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Cripes, if it ain't one thing, it's the next!

You might want to punt temporarily on the upper bath floor. Slap down some vinyl to get things buttoned up for now and come back later with a real floor.
No kidding. I went from a 3 bath house to a 1.5 in a week! I'll just bang this out the next two days. A new toilet and tiles should be relatively painless. I'm thinking porcelain planks; I figured in the future the bathroom could "grow" with my son. Meanwhile, I need that first floor bath done....
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:34 AM   #21
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Just a note----always avoid the toilet flanges with PVC bolt ring---use one with a stainless steel outer ring---

The PVC outer rings are easy to split or distort when screwing to the floor or tightening up the toilet bolts----
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:24 AM   #22
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Having done both, I've always said that remodeling an existing house can be harder than building a new one. You, sir, are proving my point.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:10 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Just a note----always avoid the toilet flanges with PVC bolt ring---use one with a stainless steel outer ring---

The PVC outer rings are easy to split or distort when screwing to the floor or tightening up the toilet bolts----

Funny that you say that because upon closer inspection of the flange, although not broken, it's warped. So I got me a steel repair ring/fortifier???


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Originally Posted by md2lgyk View Post
Having done both, I've always said that remodeling an existing house can be harder than building a new one. You, sir, are proving my point.
I believe you sir. Especially if you are short on proper tools. I attempted to cut a 24 X 16 section of the plywood out with a multi-tool!!!! 1) plywood is strong....real strong and 2) I went through 3 blades (about $25) before I said "this isn't it" and went out to get a small saw. I don't know if the blade was correct because my whole house now smells like burnt popcorn. This thing creates some serious smoke.

All I have to do now is cut out the holes for the drain pipe....but I don't have a recip-saw....or a 4" hole saw....so I'm waiting for my neighbor to come home to bother him (hate doing that but he's got everything).....so I wait.....
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:27 PM   #24
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You will be buying a 7 1/4" circular saw soon---those are the most useful things--be careful--
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:31 PM   #25
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There are a couple of keys tools no renovator should be without. Saws being important, one corded circular saw (aka Skilsaw) and one cordless reciprocating saw (aka Sawzall) and a spare battery. I've generally found the power needed for circular saw use to be beyond what most of the cordless ones can deliver. But for most reno work a cordless sawzall is quite sufficient. Handy at helping cut down the Xmas tree too...
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:35 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
You will be buying a 7 1/4" circular saw soon---those are the most useful things--be careful--
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
There are a couple of keys tools no renovator should be without. Saws being important, one corded circular saw (aka Skilsaw) and one cordless reciprocating saw (aka Sawzall) and a spare battery. I've generally found the power needed for circular saw use to be beyond what most of the cordless ones can deliver. But for most reno work a cordless sawzall is quite sufficient. Handy at helping cut down the Xmas tree too...
I suppose in time my inventory must necessarily grow....I'm pooped from that plywood.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:51 PM   #27
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I've got both a corded and a cordless reciprocating saw. In 10 years I've never bothered to drag out the corded one as long as I've had a battery charged for the cordless one. I have made use of a corded jigsaw, and plenty of use of the corded circular saw, neither of which I see bothering getting cordless.

Lately I've gotten quite a lot of use out of a Dewalt cordless impact driver. Not the drill/hammer kind, but the compact model. Damned handy for various screw fastening needs during reno work. Doesn't replace a cordless drill, but you can use 1/4" shank drill bits with it. The impact aspect being great for drawing materials tight. If I had to be screwing down a lot of plywood I'd damned sure want the impact driver.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:46 PM   #28
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Couple of last minute changes since....my neighbor is great as a handyman and I asked him to help me assess some things I'm doing. Overall good but he thought structurally the cutout area would be more stable without another cut down the middle to fit it around the toilet flange. I agreed but that involved cutting out the old flange and using a repair coupler which was fine because now it will be all new.

Plywood went in and the underlayment of 1/4" Hardibacker on the tiling can begin. It was a great learning experience watching him lay tiles and asking questions. Remember I still have the first floor bath to do...yeah....
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:34 PM   #29
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The tiling is done and tonight the new toilet goes in......toilet came home in the back seat of a sedan. I should get an SUV.....After tonight, this bathroom should be sound and functional and it's back to the first floor.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:12 PM   #30
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You're moving fast----that tile looks good---the long tiles are a bit tricky to set----nice job---Mike-----

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