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-   -   First Time Reno Attempt ...Venting (http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/first-time-reno-attempt-venting-186813/)

Taggart01 09-10-2013 10:16 PM

First Time Bathroom Reno Attempt ...the progress
 
Hello. I'm new to the forum with a new bathroom renovation I'm attempting.... I figured I'm pretty handy with little things here and there....Not too bad with fixing car either so why not right? Wrong. This is way messier than fixing cars-at least with that it's localized havoc and my wife doesn't need to worry about the plume of dust that started in the bathroom and escaped into the kitchen. It's also much louder then fixing cars. I have to apologize the next door neighbors all the time because of the noise (townhouse). I have to deal with carcasses of vary degree; the most I get on the car is dead bugs on the grill.

So as I begin my renovation log here I'll be putting up pictures so we can all have a good laugh over a pint at the new guy without a clue. Any advice or input and words of encouragement are greatly appreciated. Nice meeting you all!

J

Taggart01 09-11-2013 09:51 AM

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So this is how it started. The bottom tiles were already coming off by hand so I figured I'd start there. One by one....there was a refreshing quality to the removal though.

The tile floor was surprisingly brittle. It was as if the tile mortar and grout was holding the base together.

The curb caught me off guard as well. Didn't expect it to be filled with broken junk!

Taggart01 09-11-2013 01:27 PM

First Time Shower Reno Log....How it all unravels!!!
 
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So....as we progress the gut of the walls are completed. This shower was never used since we moved in because there was a known leak. Now I know why that occurred. They screwed in the vapor barrier just an inch above the tile line. That doesn't seem right.

Of interest the cut out by the pipes is where the previous owner inserted a fogger to kill the roaches!!! The fogger was still there!!! LOL

I got the vinyl off the hard way because the screws were completely rusted out. Which now presents a distinct problem.....

I've heard a bunch of good things about Schluter so I'm leaning that way for a shower system.

Taggart01 09-11-2013 03:30 PM

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I need to remove that top part of the shower drain and with no way to unscrew I either drill out the holes or cut and extend the pipe. I guessing the latter would be better with a repair coupler? So I'm waiting on a inside saw for the drill to get that done and as I wait I go to the vanity. Apparently mold wasn't just on the shower side. Interesting there was so little room for the vanity drain pipe that they had to cut out drywall.....

oh'mike 09-11-2013 03:39 PM

You will want to open the concrete for the new Schluter drain---finish the demo of the drywall around the vanity area---I'd like to see what's hiding back there.

Taggart01 09-12-2013 10:33 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1240736)
You will want to open the concrete for the new Schluter drain---finish the demo of the drywall around the vanity area---I'd like to see what's hiding back there.


oh'mike if it's like the shower side it's cinder blocks. They literally had an inch of room and they used 1x1 as studs to hold up the wall on that side of the shower. So no doubt a 2" pipe wouldn't fit. I was surprised....I didn't think we were that close to our neighbors!!!

So yes I need to get under that drain pipe. I can't unbolt so I need other options (is it common to see those bolts so rusted out???) So originally I was thinking Schluter residential drain adapter....make this easier....first time doing this....less stress....at a cost of around $110 for the adapter kit. Now that I have to cut and paste a connector I save on the adapter kit I suppose. Life works out funny......

ddawg16 09-12-2013 10:43 AM

Welcome to DIY......yep....the dirt is the big surprise.....a good shop vac is your friend....

It helps to put your location in your profile.

And like Mike said....go ahead and open up the rest of the walls. I personally think it's easier to patch a 'big' hole vs a small hole. If it was me, I would take out all the drywall between corners...that way you can inspect behind the walls and fix anything that needs fixing now...then just slap up a new sheet of drywall.

I'm in the middle of drywalling my 2-story addition now....I've learned that wasting a 2' chunk of drywall is way cheaper than the time a labor to tape and mud the joint....the bigger the piece, the less work..

Taggart01 09-12-2013 01:49 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 1241023)
Welcome to DIY......yep....the dirt is the big surprise.....a good shop vac is your friend....

It helps to put your location in your profile.

And like Mike said....go ahead and open up the rest of the walls. I personally think it's easier to patch a 'big' hole vs a small hole. If it was me, I would take out all the drywall between corners...that way you can inspect behind the walls and fix anything that needs fixing now...then just slap up a new sheet of drywall.

I'm in the middle of drywalling my 2-story addition now....I've learned that wasting a 2' chunk of drywall is way cheaper than the time a labor to tape and mud the joint....the bigger the piece, the less work..

I agree and with most of the bottom parts molded out might as well replace right? Going back to the drain I decided to clear out as much as I could and found out that there was some sort of a plastic barrier underneath it. Also rotted out was the steel lathing I suppose for the concrete. Since I need some more space I need to get under that to cut and paste a coupler.

Is that plastic important in ANY way?? Because all that has to come out. Spoke with a Schluter rep today and he said to place a 4" pipe around the 2" drain and then fill the outside of the 4" pipe with gravel etc then mortar on top. I asked him wouldn't that leave the 2" drain a bit "unstable" but he said it would make fitting the drain easier. I guess the 4" pipe need to support the drain in some way so that needs to be flush with the bottom of the drain??? This is getting complicated......

oh'mike 09-12-2013 05:15 PM

Are you using the Schluter pan or forming your own pan with deck mud?

As to having the ability to wiggle the drain for the final fit up---that helps a lot.

I do hand packed pans and leave space around the drain pipe so I have a chance to level the drain one more time before packing----I never used a scrap of 4" pipe for a collar,but that sounds safe---Mike----

Taggart01 09-12-2013 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1241132)
Are you using the Schluter pan or forming your own pan with deck mud?

As to having the ability to wiggle the drain for the final fit up---that helps a lot.

I do hand packed pans and leave space around the drain pipe so I have a chance to level the drain one more time before packing----I never used a scrap of 4" pipe for a collar,but that sounds safe---Mike----

I'm going to use the Schluter pan/base once the whole drain fiasco is figured out. Is it alright for me to dig down lower than that plastic wrap. I need about 3" for the coupler to work.

ddawg16 09-13-2013 12:52 AM

Since your in Florida....have you considered Hot Mop? about half the cost.....and just as good if not better....

oh'mike 09-13-2013 05:40 AM

Sure--dig as deep as you need----save the sand you dig out----Jaz and a few other members know a lot about the Schluter system----when you are ready for the install you might want to start a new threads about that part of the work.

There are several different methods of building a shower pan that work---

Schluter or Noble surface membrane---

Pan with liner--deck mud---How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

Hot Mop---these are popular in California and Arizona---but seldom used elsewhere

Hydroban paint on waterproofing over a mud pan---these are safe and used a lot in Florida---Go to Latacrete site for instructions.

Taggart01 09-13-2013 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 1241227)
Since your in Florida....have you considered Hot Mop? about half the cost.....and just as good if not better....

Thanks. I'll look into it.

Taggart01 09-13-2013 12:52 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1241242)
Sure--dig as deep as you need----save the sand you dig out----Jaz and a few other members know a lot about the Schluter system----when you are ready for the install you might want to start a new threads about that part of the work.

There are several different methods of building a shower pan that work---

Schluter or Noble surface membrane---

Pan with liner--deck mud---How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

Hot Mop---these are popular in California and Arizona---but seldom used elsewhere

Hydroban paint on waterproofing over a mud pan---these are safe and used a lot in Florida---Go to Latacrete site for instructions.


Woops!!! Dumped the dirt out....half of it was garbage anyways....oxidized copper pipe parts.....cable ties....rusted screws....and dirt....

Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate the guidance and support.

Today the crapper came out. Amazed at how clean the pipe is....

oh'mike 09-13-2013 05:22 PM

Actually the PVC drains usually look clean like that---so far so good!


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