Connecting ends on non-mitered Laminate sections

MovedTooMuch · 08-12-2011, 09:51 PM

I have a long counter top section (13') so I'll be connecting two straight factory ends. They do not have the same slots/bolts as the mitered ends. Any tips on making a smooth tight connection?

I will be using the generic WilsonArt stuff from Lowe's. I was thinking about getting a router and trying to duplicate the groves. Is that possible? Is there a template out there for that?

epson · 08-12-2011, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MovedTooMuch

I have a long counter top section (13') so I'll be connecting two straight factory ends. They do not have the same slots/bolts as the mitered ends. Any tips on making a smooth tight connection?

I will be using the generic WilsonArt stuff from Lowe's. I was thinking about getting a router and trying to duplicate the groves. Is that possible? Is there a template out there for that?

you can use these to do the job: http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...h=Tite%20Joint

MovedTooMuch · 08-15-2011, 05:31 PM

Thanks.

1) Is that a drill bit or a router bit?

2) I assume the arms on the side of the bits are a depth guide so you don't drill too far. Correct?

3) I think I understand the hardware. Is there something that cuts the trench/slot for the bolt?

4) Would I use 2 or 3 bolts for a standard counter top depth?

5) Should I put in clear caulk prior to joining them? Wood glue?

epson · 08-15-2011, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MovedTooMuch

Thanks.

1) Is that a drill bit or a router bit?

2) I assume the arms on the side of the bits are a depth guide so you don't drill too far. Correct?

3) I think I understand the hardware. Is there something that cuts the trench/slot for the bolt?

4) Would I use 2 or 3 bolts for a standard counter top depth?

5) Should I put in clear caulk prior to joining them? Wood glue?

Quote:

Originally Posted by MovedTooMuch

Thanks.

1) Is that a drill bit or a router bit? That is a drill bit 7/8 dia. you can use a fosters bit

2) I assume the arms on the side of the bits are a depth guide so you don't drill too far. Correct? you are correct.

3) I think I understand the hardware. Is there something that cuts the trench/slot for the bolt? You can use a router bit.

4) Would I use 2 or 3 bolts for a standard counter top depth? You would require 3 bolts.

5) Should I put in clear caulk prior to joining them? Wood glue?Use Titebond III glue for your joint which has an open time of ten minutes, has a strength of 4000 PSI, and is the most waterproof woodworking glue on the market.

hope this helps...

MovedTooMuch · 08-25-2011, 10:40 PM

I've got the parts. Any advice on a router? I see fixed and plunge models. I have NO idea what the difference is. I have Sears, Harbor Freight, Lowe's, and HD near me.

Also, any advice on cutting the holes for the sink and cooktop? My understanding is that I cut the countertop upside down with the proper jigsaw blade.

epson · 08-27-2011, 09:30 AM

For me a plunge router works the best. Check this site for all your information on how to install your counter top. http://www.mal-o-sen.com/cutting_sink.htm

MovedTooMuch · 09-26-2011, 08:32 PM

Thanks for all of the help! My counter top sections went together just AWESOME! The seam is as good as any pro!

The Woodworker.com stuff was very good. Make sure to order the drilling template/guide. It stops the drill bit at just the right depth! I also found it helpful to clamp down the template/guide with my clamps.

I guess I could have skipped the router. The template appears to have holes for a drill guide. The plunge router worked fine though for the groove and now I have a new power tool to play with!

TIP: I used a pair of clamps on either side of the counter top as I joined them. This kept the sides aligned as I tightened the clamps.

I did do some test cuts and drills. The drill bit is designed for particle board. It did not work with a test piece of wood that I tried.

epson · 09-27-2011, 08:52 PM

Another satisfied diy’er