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Old 12-22-2013, 09:36 PM   #16
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cabinet crown


ok, jig it is. but how do i know i made the jig correctly ?

and i think i am going to need an angle finder. i doubt my cabinets are square.

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Old 12-22-2013, 10:13 PM   #17
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look at the crown stops in the picture I linked to----if the crown can't move out of position,your jig is good---

Cabinets are usually square-----cutting test blocks out of scrap wood will be the simplest way to see if the angle need adjusting---

If any of your cabinets have 45* offsets--then you need to be suspicious of the actual angle---make test blocks and adjust the angle as needed on the scrap---

Angle finders are dandy tools---some day I might own one---but I've installed thousands of feet of trim with little more than an adjustable bevel and a pad of paper----

Test blocks are good--if the test is perfect,then the crown should be ,too.
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:27 PM   #18
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ok, mike. i am going to make a jig and cut some scrap. probably this weekend. i will report back then.
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Old 12-24-2013, 06:58 AM   #19
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Let us know how you do!
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:43 AM   #20
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You can bed the crown in on the saw and draw a line on the saw where the crown sits and put the crown on the line each time. It is a lot better if you have the stops though.
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:35 PM   #21
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You can bed the crown in on the saw and draw a line on the saw where the crown sits and put the crown on the line each time. It is a lot better if you have the stops though.
i understand that. but the problem is, seems to me, that this cutting crown thing, is very exacting. like .001" could be noticed, at least with my darker finish. and "bedding the crown" isn't going to cut it. as the crown could have issues that will not let the piece be properly bedded.

oh, i know about .001". i am a hobby machinist. i have my own metal lathe and mill. and i have made several functioning engine parts for my hot rod.
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Old 12-25-2013, 05:20 AM   #22
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Surly you can figure a way to rig up a set of stops---
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Old 12-25-2013, 07:17 AM   #23
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of course i can, that isn't the issue. getting it right is .
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Old 12-25-2013, 07:27 AM   #24
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Two tools I use when cutting crown are:
http://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-crown-cut
And the:
http://www.coastaltool.com/other/starrett/505p-7.htm

Perfect for someone that does not cut crown all the time like me.
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Old 12-25-2013, 08:53 AM   #25
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I haven't seen 1 mil as a problem. On prestained with a penetrating stain, there's a fair amount of penetration into the wood, and sanding during the finishing schedule takes off more than 1 mil. It won't turn out like a CAD drawing, but visually it can look perfect.

It's wood...
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Old 12-25-2013, 09:02 AM   #26
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no penetration here. i will have to touch up the ends before install.
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Old 12-25-2013, 12:12 PM   #27
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If you are going to touch up the ends just touch up the joints before installing, you will never see even a slight .001 open joint. The down side is you can't glue the joints well with stain on them. Just know that on down the road chances are the joints will open after being up in the hotter air of the room.
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:29 PM   #28
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I have installed many kitchens and done many crown jobs. Go to a hardware store and go into the finishing area and get a "touch up marker" that is close to the color of your crown and a wax putty stick. It doesn't have to be a perfect match but close. Before you assemble any miter, color the inside of the miter outside edge. This way you will not see the natural wood if your miter is off and it will not effect the glue. Use the wax putty sick to fill any gaps and nail holes, wipe off with some mineral spirits (Varsol). If it is dark wood, then a sharpie is all you need. Crown stops and jigs work well but I just mark the table like BigJim. If you have lots of crown then try to cut outside miters with the same material, if you are "cutting it close" cut all the big pieces first, this way you can use a miss cut somewhere else. Inside miters are fine for cabinets as long as everything is square BUT consider coping for walls or out of square cabinets.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:47 AM   #29
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I have installed many kitchens and done many crown jobs. Go to a hardware store and go into the finishing area and get a "touch up marker" that is close to the color of your crown and a wax putty stick. It doesn't have to be a perfect match but close. Before you assemble any miter, color the inside of the miter outside edge. This way you will not see the natural wood if your miter is off and it will not effect the glue. Use the wax putty sick to fill any gaps and nail holes, wipe off with some mineral spirits (Varsol). If it is dark wood, then a sharpie is all you need. Crown stops and jigs work well but I just mark the table like BigJim. If you have lots of crown then try to cut outside miters with the same material, if you are "cutting it close" cut all the big pieces first, this way you can use a miss cut somewhere else. Inside miters are fine for cabinets as long as everything is square BUT consider coping for walls or out of square cabinets.

thanx. i already have a matching wax stick/touch up kit that i got when i bought the cabinets. i am ordering a angle gauge to help with the cuts.
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:50 AM   #30
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ok. i gave this a try, again. didn't go well. looks to me that something is causing the saw to cut to be concaved a bit. perhaps .007-8. when it is turned to the right. left cut looks fine.

pics = charging batteries.

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