Bathroom Wood Rot Repair
I've been pondering over this repair for about a week now.
Tiling the tub stall, ripped out the old and look what I found:
Clearly had been previously repaired
I think the previous repair was just enough that they could lay tiles on the sill.
So far I've got two ideas:
1) Sister studs
2) Replace everything
Now, I am a fan of doing things right. But I can't think of a really good way to cut out the studs.
It is an exterior wall and there'e no room to get a saw in there.
The best Idea I've had for replacing the studs is to plunge cut with a circular saw which will get me about 3/4 of the way through and then suffer through painful hand-saw work.
Anyone have any ideas?
If I just sister a stud in, i'm thinking I will spray some homemade Tim-Bor.
Everything is bone dry now.
Whats above this window for a header ?
Does the roof end/land on this wall - roof load ?
Well, I didn't wanna have to tear into the drywall anymore...but yes the roof lands on this wall. Considering the left side studs are just about eaten through, it seems that removing one set at a time would be no problem. I think the window header is just a single 2 by 4
Myself I'd rip it out & redo everything
It looks like Tyvek is showing & exterior sheathing is missing in the holes ?
I agree. What kind of siding?
I think I would open it up from the outside as well. Makes the whole job easier. Vinyl comes off and goes back on pretty quick. Then you can replace the sheathing in that area as well. Everything would be nailed up tight and the sheathing would'nt just be hangin there.
Its hardy board siding.
I don't have a big enough ladder to get up there, on the second floor.
It looks kinda nasty but I think it's not really bearing much. The window is basically attached to the siding, and the studs are in good shape above and below the rot.
thanks for the advice.
Then just sister studs. The fiber board sheathing may not be structural with corner let-in 1x4's present. To remove and replace lap Hardie would be a $$$ project. Be sure to remove all dry rot and seal.
Be safe, Gary
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