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Old 07-09-2013, 09:27 PM   #16
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So I have decided to move where the supply line comes down, over to the right of the joist pictured for accessibility in the wall above. I would like it to connect to the current spot under the floor however to maintain the course of the line under the floor. Should I notch the joist to accomplish this or go underneath it?

I also attached another picture where the line lays on top of a main support beam then bends slightly to clear the joists underneath. I figured notching here would put less stress on the joints and make a cleaner run . Am I thinking right?
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:31 PM   #17
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Here is the picture, the line is the one running left to right. You can see how it ducks under the joists.

I suppose I could notch the main support beams (2 of them) and hang everything below the joists. Using a hole hog or something to deal with the thickness
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Last edited by Outdoorbum; 07-09-2013 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:55 AM   #18
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http://www.nachi.org/forum/attachmen...ing-small-.jpg

Here is something I found that explains my issue. My support beam is a 3 1/2 x 5 1/2 that has posts every 78 inches. The notch cut in the beam to accommodate the old tub drain is set in from one end 23 inches. Its 4 inches wide and 2 1/2 deep on one side . In my mind, way to big given the above diagram. The attached picture shows the line I would like to run through a notch , obviously running right next to the old drain.

My first thought is to put a support post of the same size as the beam right under the notch . I dont know how to get a post under there where its tight without some suggestions. Then, do I dare notch that beam another 3/4 inches given its state now ?
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:22 AM   #19
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Do not notch a joist or beam ---drill a hole---notches should be avoided as they weaken the structure.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:08 PM   #20
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How's it going? No new notches from your work,right?
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:10 AM   #21
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Don't notch your beams for water supply; supply lines don't need straight runs the way drains do.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:47 PM   #22
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Nope! Running supply lines without any additional notches. Unfortunately, the original plumber notched a couple of beams with what appears to be a 1" auger so I'll use those since they are already present.
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:22 PM   #23
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Toilet Drain
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:43 PM   #24
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You PMed me about moving the drain flange over 8"---You can cut the lateral line and use a 45 to move the toilet drain over 8"--always avoid using a 90 on a toilet drain---they can be used with success sometimes--but rodding the line would be difficult and a 90 might lead to a slow drain---
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:21 PM   #25
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Mike (or anyone for that matter), referring to the additional support on post #18 in this thread, would you set the post directly under the notch or mid span to support everything?
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:41 PM   #26
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Place the support right under the notch----sister in another joist if there is room----Mike-----
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:23 PM   #27
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sister by screwing in a 2 x 6 maybe? How long, just between the two original posts ? Its 6 1/2 feet between
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:33 PM   #28
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If you can add a 2x? along side the notched floor joist--glued and nailed--for the full length--there will be no need for a post---even part way will help---Mike----
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:42 AM   #29
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Ok great! 16 d nails every 8 inches or so? Should I go galvanized?
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Old 07-23-2013, 06:25 AM   #30
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12 or 16 P nails--about 10" is fine

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