DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (
-   Kitchen & Bath Remodeling (
-   -   Bathroom Remodel (

Outdoorbum 07-02-2013 12:51 PM

Bathroom Remodel
2 Attachment(s)
I figured I would start my own thread since my questions never cease. To recap some info from other threads; my house was built in 1978. The bathroom I'm doing is downstairs and is up against a foundation wall. I don't have many pics of it before, but all I can say is it was various shades of baby blue throughout including the toilet and tub. I'm a complete novice, so please bear with my ignorance on numerous issues.

At this point, demo is almost complete.

I'm going to attempt a tile shower. The first step I believe is getting my structure up to par. You can see the dry rot in one pic, so I was curious how I do that with the walls sitting on the rotted portion?

That is a vent line for the tub drain in the pic, and the rot occurred where the vinyl flooring met the tub. Not sure if it was appropriate for them to have different subfloor levels for the tub and the rest of the bathroom.

Outdoorbum 07-02-2013 01:08 PM

Any ideas or suggestions based on what is shown thus far is greatly appreciated. I have some tiling resources I'm looking at that are pretty extensive, and all of them mention structure as the first step. I've read about deflection calculators on here as well, so for the floor I will go under tonight and provide details about joist size and spacing. For the walls, I'm not sure what special thought I should give to the block wall in the back.

joecaption 07-02-2013 01:18 PM

Is this in a basement?
That rotted subflooring needs to go.

Outdoorbum 07-02-2013 02:40 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Joe, no, its the downstairs of the house which is built into a slope. The slope is where the block wall is. There is a crawl space which I have good access to. How do I get to the rot under the walls where the studs are?

joecaption 07-02-2013 05:21 PM

Do not have to remove what's under the wall.
Use a Toe Kick Saw to cut out the old flooring right up against the bottom plate. (Home Depot rents them)
Or a Sawsall with a short wide course blade.

Outdoorbum 07-02-2013 09:36 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Ok Joe. Working on that tonight. Are these pieces of wood used to attach ceiling drywall too? They dont seem very tight but would do the job. Nothing was attached to them when I removed the ceiling drywall. I'm referring to the strips on the top of the plate.

Outdoorbum 07-02-2013 09:54 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Also, this is the line coming into the house and then down to the crawl space . This will be tiled over so if it needs replacement, now is the time. Does this appear to be faulty ? I don't see leakage now , but the corrosion at the joints makes me suspicious

oh'mike 07-02-2013 11:04 PM

That 2x4 attached to the top wall plate is just a drywall nailer--so tighten it up or replace it with something straight and tight.

The corrosion on the outside of that pipe looks like surface corrosion caused by flux--
sand the pipe and see if I am right---if so leave it alone--

TheEplumber 07-02-2013 11:08 PM

199 Attachment(s)
Slightly off topic but those are huge holes in your joists where that dryer venting is.
I suspect you'll be at least replacing the vent?

oh'mike 07-02-2013 11:11 PM


Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 1210823)
Slightly off topic but those are huge holes in your joists where that dryer venting is.
I suspect you'll be at least replacing the vent?

Dang--I missed that!!!

Outdoorbum 07-03-2013 02:02 PM

So sand the pipe with some emery cloth, as if I was preparing to solder? Then do I just see if there's any leaking or am I looking for something else on the pipe?

Yes, I was going to replace the fan, but how should that vent hose be routed?

Also, Joe mentioned the toe kick saw to remove the rotted floor portion but I wanted to get any other opinions on that. The rot extends under the bottom plate a bit so just making sure there isn't a better option.

Should I just pull up the entire floor? It looks pretty worn

The drywall nailer is tough to access from above which is where it was nailed. Maybe screws from the bottom? Its sectioned 2x4 so maybe one solid piece screwed from the bottom is better, i don't know. I don't mean to over think things, but you guys see things and know things that just pass right over my head!

oh'mike 07-04-2013 07:33 AM

Yes--clean and inspect the outside of the pipe----if it's just surface corrosion like I suspect, you will be fine.

Top plate nailer? Use a clamp to pull the old one back into position and run some screws in from below---if it will not pull down--then replace it---

As to the sub floor? Replace the entire thing if you feel that it is needed---ass cross blocking to the edges if you miss the floor joists. Don't be to concerned with the rotted sub floor under the wall plate--add some new ply at the joists to sopport the wall framing.

oh'mike 07-08-2013 07:25 PM

How's the project going?

Outdoorbum 07-09-2013 02:14 PM

Getting back to work on it tonight. We have 5 kids and work opposite schedules so at night I'm responsible for everything. If I get an hour undisturbed to work I'm lucky!

oh'mike 07-09-2013 07:18 PM

I sympathize with up ==You still have a few hard hours getting the place ready to put back together----

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:32 AM.

vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1