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Old 08-15-2012, 09:23 PM   #16
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Basement bathroom shower remodel


Thanks Mike.

The shower is gonna be ~47" wide x ~35" deep after the tile is done, so it's def not that big. Here's a question for you though.. I already installed a PT 2x4 for the curb, come to read that some people don't like it since it may warp w/ age.. crap.. It was a little damp when I installed it, but I used construction adhesive (pl premium) and used a few ramset nails for fastening it to the slab. I'll let it dry out for a few days before attaching a couple more 2x4's on top so it should hopefully dry out some more (and hopefully not warp/twist). You think I'll be alright? Thanks again!

-Mike

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Old 08-15-2012, 09:53 PM   #17
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It'll shrink---I doubt if it will twist--not with a few pins in it---But I would be concerned---If my helper did that,I'd remove it--the likelihood of trouble is slim---But the cost of failure makes changing it out now a simple choice.

Your job--your decision---( Hell to be the boss)
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:23 PM   #18
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You could get some half high 4" block, or just use brick.
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:36 PM   #19
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Haha man, yesterday I was thinking I would just leave the damn PT wood, but today I'm thinking I might just rip it out.. :-\ I'll sweat in the new shower valve, and then see if I feel like redoing the curb after my day job. When installing bricks, it looks like I'm going to have to go two high, as the concrete bricks I'm considering are 2.25" high or 3.75" high, depending if you stack them "flat" or on its "side." I want about a 4.5" high curb, so I guess I'd need to go two high stacked flat. I'm completely unfamiliar w/ bricks/masonry, should I use some kind of brick mortar and stack them on top of each other, or will thinset (modified or unmodified) work? Thanks! Hopefully the PT piece won't be hell to remove, since I used plenty of const adhesive and ramset nails to secure.
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:04 PM   #20
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Basement bathroom shower remodel


You can just split that PT 2x with your hammer or a wrecking bar and break off the nails. I don't know how you'll clean up the adhesive. Maybe it isn't set up completely yet. Razor scraper, whatever.

The brick or block work doesn't have to look good. Just make sure it is level across the top and they are in a straight line. You should have a straight edge the length of your curb before you start working. Put a level on top and the straight edge or level on the face to be sure they are lined up.

Get a good bed of masonry mortar to start with, and you really don't have to worry much about the head joints between the bricks. You can fill these from on top after each course is laid. Then just cut the joints off flush with your trowel, so the mortar won't interfere with your thinset and tiling later.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:27 PM   #21
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Ok turns out it was no sweat removing the PT 2x4 for the curb. I bought the concrete bricks and a bag of stone/masonry mortar from the big box store, but just had a few quick questions. I guess I mix it up to the consistency of thinset (like for tiles), and just set them on the slab, or do I mix it a little thicker like thick peanut butter? Regarding stacking, same thing? Just trowel some mortar on top of the brick and then press the one on top of it, and clean out any extra that squeezes out? I'm guessing I don't have to be super anal about the joints right? I dry laid everything out and looks like I'll have about an 1/8" or so gap between the bricks. Thanks for the help guys!

Edit: From what I've read online it seems like some folks say regular tile thinset is fine for using as mortar for bricks for the curb, so I guess I'll mix it to a peanut butterish consistency like thinset and should be fine. Guess I'm overthinking things too much.

Last edited by NewHomeDIYGuy; 08-19-2012 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:17 PM   #22
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Just mix up the mortar to a consistency which you can work with. I've never had any peanut butter on a mortar board or tried to make a sandwich with mortar, so I don't know.

I hope your bricks have holes in them. This will allow you to adjust them down a bit easier.

You want 3/8" joints if at all possible.

Now just do it and report back in (or not).
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Old 08-20-2012, 03:19 PM   #23
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Thanks cleveman, gonna finally tackle the curb today and get it done after doing another few small things in the bathroom. The bricks don't have holes, but are quite porous, so I should be a-ok I think. I'll keep playing with it till they're right. Had a semi-lazy weekend and finished up the last of the framing and sweating in the new shower valve. I would like to say thanks to moen for shipping the valve in the "on" position. Fortunately the room didn't get completely flooded before I shut off the water.. lol I'll post up some pics after I'm done tonight.
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:20 PM   #24
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Man, laying bricks is a giant pita, much worse than tiling. Perhaps I don't know the proper "technique," but I don't know how brick layers lay bricks without making a mess on the "face" of the brick, as I got mortar everywhere. You can't nicely just trowel and plop them on like tile. Anyway, it isn't the prettiest, but I think it should do the trick. I don't know a lot about brick laying but I figured staggering the joints should be better than lining them up. My only slight concern is that the curb might be a little high, but I think it should still be ok, seeing as how the tiled floor will be almost a full 1" in height.

I'll install the drain and lay the preslope w/ deck mud later this week. Thanks guys for the help!
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:33 AM   #25
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Next question for you guys.. How do you do corner bead on outside corners where drywall meets durock? I have two outside corners for the shower, and the greenboard was cut flush w/ the end of the studs, so the durock will overlap the edge of the drywall. Can I just tape and mud the joint, or should I use corner bead? If I use corner bead (I think plastic would be best), could I bed it in a light bed of thinset over the durock and use drywall compound over the greenboard? Thanks!
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Last edited by NewHomeDIYGuy; 09-03-2012 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 09-03-2012, 03:51 PM   #26
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I started a shower in a basement recently, and I'm lining the interior with USG's version of denshield. I plan on tiling the interior walls, and the face of the walls (4 1/2"). I made sure to plumb those two stall walls carefully, and I'll go around the corner with the tilebacker.

I plan on making my inside stall corners tile to tile, as I'm using a through and through porcelain. The question then is how to transition to the sheetrock on the outside of the stall (adjacent to a toilet on one side and laundry on the other). I have elected to terminate the sheetrock in some vinyl J channel butted up against the tile.

I think this will look pretty good and honestly it is in an unfinished basement and not critical at all.

Another option would be to use a corner profile which would accomodate both the tile and the sheetrock. I don't think this exists.

Or one could do what I believe you are going to do, that is to put on some corner bead and simply terminate the tile at the corner.

We are pretty much doing the same thing, but I am omitting the corner bead and using J channel.

Party on.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:44 AM   #27
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Cleveman,

Thanks for your input. The problem I think with just using j bead is that I need to paint the 1/2" side/edge of where the durock will be. Perhaps this is my screw up and I should install green board so that it protrudes 1/2" past the edge of the outside corner rather than the durock sitting 1/2" past the edge of the stud? I'm open to suggestions as to what I should do/what can be done. I was basically just going to install 1/2" durock all throughout the shower, and terminate the shower with a bullnose tile installed on top of the durock to the edge, then the greenboard and 1/2" edge of the durock protruding past the corner of the studs would be painted the bathroom color. Can I just use corner bead and drywall mud w/ durock?

Edit: Seems like I'm overthinking this. A friend said to just use regular corner bead and it'll be fine.

Last edited by NewHomeDIYGuy; 09-04-2012 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:21 PM   #28
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I'm a bit dense and I'm not sure I follow what you are talking about, but if you have sheetrock and tilebacker meet at some corner bead and terminate the tile at the corner with some bull-nose, that will satisfy me.

As far as I'm concerned, you can use tilebacker such as denshield or that densarmor stuff for the "wallboard" throughout your entire bathroom, including the ceiling. What you don't tile, you can just texture and paint as you would drywall.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:52 AM   #29
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Well, just an update.. bathroom's starting to take shape a little. I've been pre-occupied with different things, and life's been kicking my ass lately so I haven't gotten as much done as I wanted.. but just need to form the curb and then ready for tiling. It's coming along..
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:11 AM   #30
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Looks great...you are going to hate that high threshold. You really only need about 2 inches high

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