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-   -   Acrylic Tub Install Help (http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/acrylic-tub-install-help-78949/)

mthompson73 08-16-2010 06:36 PM

Acrylic Tub Install Help
 
Having decided not to save anything of our old tub, vanity and toilet I've since removed all fixtures, drywall, flooring and have installed a new exhaust fan/vent, installed new GFCI outlet and switch, removed and replaced all exterior insulation and vapor barrier, installed new water shut-off valves as there weren't any to begin with brought the floor up to a consistent level.

Everything has gone well up to this point. I've recently installed my tub drain/overflow and now I'm looking at test fitting the tub. This is where the trouble starts.

I've purchased an American Standard Marina (LINK) acrylic tub and I've realized that all instructions and install tips that I've read over show tubs with a thin exterior flange for nailing or screwing the tub to the studs. The outer flange of this tub is 1/4" thick at the ends and 1/2" thick along the back. My trouble is that I can't decide the best way to mate the tub to the wall. At first I was planing on putting up my cement board first than install the tub followed by a surround that would meet the tub at the top of the flange leaving me an area to seal the joint with silicone. However the more I think about it I think I'm missing something.

Can someone confirm or correct my line of thinking?

Jim F 08-17-2010 08:42 PM

The Marina is strictly a Canadian modle I see there is the pdf with the framing instructions http://www.americanstandard.ca/pdf/i...50202_1081.pdf > Hopefully it works better than the link you posted. The installation of this type of tub doesn't vary much. You have a leveling ledger that attaches to your wall studs. The tub edge rests on that ledger on three sides but the ledger should not support the weight of the tub. The feet of the tub are shimmed so the tub edge just contacts the ledger. Then the flange is nailed onto the studs above the ledger. Then the the durrock id fastened so that it covers the flange and flange nails and is spaced about 1/4 above the tub edge (not the flange) Then your tile will go on over the durrock with thinset.

mthompson73 08-18-2010 08:31 AM

Thank you but I already checked that. The pdf does indeed depict a nailing flange and had the tub actually had one I wouldn't have needed to post a question. As I said, the flange that is there is too thick for my cement board to overlap.

In any case I think I've resolved by issue. I'll have the tub come to rest on a ledger, bring my cement board to just above the tiling flange, seal that gap, then bring the surround down over the flange to mate with the tub surface. I should be able to then silicone along all joints and be safe from leaks.

Jim F 08-18-2010 09:26 PM

Hmm, the plot thickens. Based on a closer inspection of the PDF it looks like you want to secure that flange by setting roofing nails just above the flange so that the nail heads catch the top edge of the flange. The instructions don't illustrate very well, I ran into the same thing with my Kohler tub. Your solution might be the answer. Check out some of o'mike and Bud Cline's posts. It seems like this was addressed on another thread.

oh'mike 08-19-2010 06:59 AM

That PDF picture that Jim posted shows every thing----Looks like a 1x4 ledger---Nails with a washer above the flange (I think a screw would be my choice) --then the rock--on the studs -stopping at the top of the flange.

The gap is filled with thinset as the tub is tiled-----Mike----

mthompson73 08-19-2010 07:55 AM

So that being said, regardless of how thick the flange is on this tub, so long as it's not over 1/2" I should be able to use roofing nails to keep the tub in place?

It makes sense as the surround will cover all the nail heads that way.

oh'mike 08-19-2010 06:30 PM

The instructions said to use roofing nails with a washer,I believe. That is the standard method for the acrylic tubs--You should be fine.


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