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Old 03-01-2013, 10:18 PM   #16
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Would you replace these valves under the sink? (picture)


To be perfectly honest, I really thought you were kidding when you asked if they should be replaced. They should have been replaced at least 10 years ago!

There is quite a bit of copper oxide there, do you have acidic water?

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Old 03-02-2013, 10:19 AM   #17
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To be perfectly honest, I really thought you were kidding when you asked if they should be replaced. They should have been replaced at least 10 years ago!

There is quite a bit of copper oxide there, do you have acidic water?
That's pretty funny. I initially thought most of the replies were going to be along the lines of "leave them alone". I guess you can tell I have a white collar day job.

Not sure about the water quality, I'm assuming it's from an incredibly small/slow leak on the hot water side.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:35 AM   #18
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Would you replace these valves under the sink? (picture)


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Also get yourself two new stainless steel flex lines for the supplys.
Make sure to measure before buying they come in a lot of differant lengths.
i always buy longer and shorter than i think i need. that way i have on hand what will fit just right (enough), and i don't need to run back to the store in the middle of a job = i HATE when that happens.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:03 AM   #19
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i always buy longer and shorter than i think i need. that way i have on hand what will fit just right (enough), and i don't need to run back to the store in the middle of a job = i HATE when that happens.
So then dont you have to go back to get the "Just Right" size, if you bought longer and shorter thsn you needed?
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:21 AM   #20
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Would you replace these valves under the sink? (picture)


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So then dont you have to go back to get the "Just Right" size, if you bought longer and shorter thsn you needed?
theres a in every crowd
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:19 PM   #21
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Would you replace these valves under the sink? (picture)


This went not as smoothly as I imagined. I cut them off with pipe cutters. Used fine grit sandpaper to remove the crud. Put on the compression valves, 1/4 turn to the off position, turned on the water supply. A real slow drip appeared near the valve connections. Turned the water off, tightened, still dripped. Repeat 2 more times. Finally, no leaks. The water supply's been on for about 5 hours now and still nothing.

I hope that means I'm in the clear... kind of nervous.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:41 PM   #22
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Would you replace these valves under the sink? (picture)


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This went not as smoothly as I imagined. I cut them off with pipe cutters. Used fine grit sandpaper to remove the crud. Put on the compression valves, 1/4 turn to the off position, turned on the water supply. A real slow drip appeared near the valve connections. Turned the water off, tightened, still dripped. Repeat 2 more times. Finally, no leaks. The water supply's been on for about 5 hours now and still nothing.

I hope that means I'm in the clear... kind of nervous.
The nut needs to be tightened until the ferrule takes a set and grips the tubing enough it can't be pulled off with your fingers. This is usually one round after all slack is removed. Now that it has been tightened partially there is no starting point record so now it's anyone's guess.

After the ferrule has been initially set a re-connect is not tightened one round but ceases when the nut feels tight suddenly, not soft like the first installation.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:35 PM   #23
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Would you replace these valves under the sink? (picture)


Damn, a drop of water just appeared below the compression nut after a few hours. I have a feeling it's due to the hairline scratches I put into the copper pipe while sanding the oxidation off. I used 180 grit. The drip is slow enough that I believe this might be the case.

Really tempted to put a bead of silicone around the nut. Is this a bad idea?
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:25 PM   #24
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Would you replace these valves under the sink? (picture)


Bad idea. Back the nut of, put a thin layer of teflon based pipe dope on the outside of the ferrule and a little on male threads. Reassemble. You can always buy new ferrules and try again.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:08 AM   #25
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Would you replace these valves under the sink? (picture)


tighten that sucka a little more. i have had to really lay into them, to get em to stop leaking.

i have seen compression fittings used on brake lines . but they looked to be there for years and were not leaking.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:19 AM   #26
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Eplumber, I saw your reply at 11pm last night and wanted to try it out right then. I would've been worrying about it not being perfect all night otherwise. Fix'n It, I don't think I was really tightening it enough the first try as you said. Put on the dope then I just really took out my frustration on it. 8 hours later, it's still dry. Thanks to everyone who's replied. I'm happy!
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:16 AM   #27
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By all means do what ever is necessary to avoid what was written as instructions for years on the box of ferrules. Following manufacturers instructions is the very last thing you would ever want to do.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:57 AM   #28
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By all means do what ever is necessary to avoid what was written as instructions for years on the box of ferrules. Following manufacturers instructions is the very last thing you would ever want to do.
structions ? we don need no stinkin struction

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