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Old 11-04-2008, 09:16 PM   #1
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Will this work alright?


Wanting to check my work before I begin. Thx.
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Old 11-04-2008, 11:44 PM   #2
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Will this work alright?


Looks like the old trap is going directly into a main drainline. This would also serve as a vent for that short of run. Going as far as your drawing indicates (looks to be at least 5') would require a seperate vent line. This vent would go back to and connect to the main vent. Maybe I am misreading your drawing.
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Old 11-05-2008, 05:44 PM   #3
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Will this work alright?


No it is not too far really. It is maybe 3' where I will be putting the new drain/trap that's all.
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Old 11-05-2008, 10:09 PM   #4
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Will this work alright?


So would that be fine if it was within about 3'. The T section would be even closer than that. The drain/trap would be about 36" from original. Not very far at all. Also: When I cut into the 2" drain to put my T in, will the pipe give me enough lateral play to slip the T in?
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Old 11-07-2008, 04:58 PM   #5
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Will this work alright?



If you have the room in the bay in the floor, this is what I would do.Good luck.
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Old 11-07-2008, 05:41 PM   #6
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Will this work alright?


So your saying to cut into the 2" drain and run my P trap into it then raise the other cut half coming from the wall of the 2" that extends back to the vent up and Wye into the 2" after the P trap?
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Old 11-07-2008, 06:10 PM   #7
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Will this work alright?


So I would just use a reducer to go from my 1 1/2" P trap and go straight into the exhisting 2" drainline. Now for the vent. After I cut the drain line would I use the back half of the 2" drain line or just go from the vent going up the wall and get rid of the old T for the old trap and run new 1 1/2" pipe for the vent? Then would I use a Wye and tie into the drainline? Approximately where would I Wye into the drainline after the trap? I really appreciate the help. Your pic helps alot. Picture is worth a thousand words. All of this would then be the "professional" way to go?
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Old 11-07-2008, 06:35 PM   #8
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Will this work alright?




Look right now fellas?
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Old 11-07-2008, 06:55 PM   #9
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Will this work alright?


I hope you can understand this. lay-out the new fixture drains location at the waste & overflow outlet, that is where the trap inlet goes. the whye goes before the trap when looking at the sketch your left, the vent runs from the branch of the y & street 45 towards the vent on your right. You may have to offset the horizontal vent at the partition to align with the existing vertical vent.
The y is going to be 1-1/2" you can reduce the existing 2" before the y with a 2" by 1-1/2" reducing coupling. this will give you a little more room to work with.
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Last edited by plumcass; 11-07-2008 at 07:07 PM. Reason: change 45 to street 45 BY GOSH I THINK YOUV"E GOTTTT IT
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Old 11-07-2008, 07:13 PM   #10
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Will this work alright?


THANK YOU so much. I think I can handle that. Don't see what was so hard about it. Just couldn't get the right details. Any specific distance to put the Y before the trap? I can basically cut out the old T where the old trap went into the vent and just run the vent to the Y then. That old plumbing by that wall is actually in the way of the whrilpool sitting closer to the wall anyways.
And just to double check there is no problem going from the ABS to pvc,sch40 as long as I use the "transition cement"
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Old 11-07-2008, 07:15 PM   #11
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Will this work alright?


I can just cut this out and make it tighter to the wall or come up from underneath inside the wall correct?
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Old 11-07-2008, 07:30 PM   #12
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Will this work alright?


Mass does not allow the transition from ABS to PVC using the cement , we either use a male to female adapter or a no-hub coupling. If I were you I woud use the ABS rather than the PVC. Less expansion in ABS plus it seems the right thing to do keep it uniform.
The Y should not be closer to the trap than two pipe diameters nor more than 5 feet away. Varies in different states

Last edited by plumcass; 11-07-2008 at 07:34 PM. Reason: add
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Old 11-07-2008, 07:41 PM   #13
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Will this work alright?


Once again thank you. You have helped tremendously. I was beginning to think I was gonna have to call a plumber but after you took time to show me I don't see why I can't handle it myself do you? I live in Ohio and i'm not sure about code for ABS to PVC. I already got the cement. I actually didn't see any ABS, I thought it was rare nowadays. You wouldn't have an example photo or a link to show what kind of connection your referring to?

Also if I wanted to provide more room for the plumbing under the floor could I run from the wye 1 1/4" pipe to the 1 1/2" vent for sake of space? Or would that be cobbling?

ONCE AGAIN I thank you greatly appreciate your time and knowledge.
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Old 11-07-2008, 07:50 PM   #14
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Will this work alright?


http://www.fernco.com/NH.asp no-hub coupling photo 4 band best
1-1/4 is allowed in ma but parts difficult to get same with ABS. ABS or PVC Male adapter & female adapters self expanitory or look them up on the web.
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:42 PM   #15
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Will this work alright?


Thx again plumcass for the diagram. Been sick all weekend so haven't got much done. I got the tub drain/overflow on and 2 of the island walls done so now I know where the whirlpool will sit. I have to cut a decent section of the subfloor out to do the new plumbing work. I might go ahead with the Fernco no hub connectors. I see HD and Lowe's has them. The way it will be vented routed as to your diagram and everything would be to code if it was inspected? Not going to be, but I don't like to half ass. I like to do things right. I take pride in my work even if I am just a DIY'er.
Got to run the dedicated circuit still but that will be simple. Lots of work left to do but I got plenty of time. I will keep you posted. Thx again.
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