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elarson13 01-19-2009 04:26 PM

Will this drain system work?
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This is to replace a very old toilet in my basement utility room. Just like the old toilet, the new one will sit on a joist deck to allow space for the plumbing. Im just adding a vanity and actual walls (the old one was just a toilet out in the middle of space with a sink on the wall to the leftlooked like a prison cell). Unlike the old one, though, this one will be vented with an AAV (as opposed to no vent at all), and, hopefully, moved over a little. The old toilet flange was straight out from the large hub. It worked, but since space is at a premium, Id like to move the toilet over (to roughly where the flange in the picture sits). I want to make sure the 90˚ bend is okay. Pictured next to the 90˚ is a 45˚ elbow, which might be more clog-resistant, but will also push the toilet out further than Id really like. I also found (but didnt buy) a 60˚ elbow, which could split the difference. So will this 90˚ work, and if not, would a 60˚ or 45˚? Thanks.
(P.S. Im planning on keeping that shutoff and cleanout accessible through a panel, and even with the 90˚ bend, the flange will be 13 from the back wall, leaving 3 between the tank and the side wall. The water discharges down under the cement floor, so Im not willing to move the iron hub.)

II Weeks 01-19-2009 04:31 PM

nope. dont like it

show the rest of the plumbing and why are you using a reducing 90? That 90's got to go IMHO especially for a toilet drain. you know whats going down there. You need long turn 90's and wheres the vent?

the 3" has to remain 3" You can go bigger but never smaller

draw out what you have and take a bigger picture

elarson13 01-19-2009 06:14 PM

There's going to be an AAV (air-admittance valve) on the smaller pipe to the left (sink drain). I had to crop the picture a lot to get it to fit into the website's memory limit. But a long 90 is an interesting idea. Anyway, I'll figure out how to get a larger picture on and report back. Thanks.

elarson13 01-19-2009 06:17 PM

3" or 4"?
Meanwhile, would 4" pipe be better? Obviously it's bigger, but wouldn't that let the water outrun the waste around corners? If 4" would work better, that would be easy to change....

zosoplumber 01-19-2009 06:33 PM

3" is pefectly fine for a toilet drain, but like Weeks said the street elbow is to sharp of a turn for the solids to flow through, if a long sweep(90 bend puts you to far out from where you would like it try two street 45's, that will give you a long sweep. Also I have used a AAV on a toilet for an addition I worked on, because a standard vent was not a possibility and it worked great, but it needs to be accesible, they are not everlasting.:)

II Weeks 01-19-2009 07:14 PM

I didnt know you could use an AAV for a toilet line. Learn something new every freakin day

thanks Zoso..

elarson13 01-20-2009 07:55 AM

AAV Access
It's going to go in the vanity, so I should be able to get at it. A long 90 won't be any problem at all. Thanks to all who replied.

jogr 01-20-2009 09:31 AM

Make sure the center of the flange is at least 15" from the finished side wall and 12" from the finished back wall (the wall the tank will be against).

You could put a real vent pipe right where the cleanout is if you can find a path above through to the roof or to another existing vent.

You really should consider breaking out the small area of concrete and doing it all under the slab. It will look like a DIY job with the raised platform but will look professional if done under the slab. It's really not that much difference in work.

elarson13 01-24-2009 09:19 AM

Thanks for the advice!

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