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-   -   When off, how long does a HWH hold heat? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/when-off-how-long-does-hwh-hold-heat-179586/)

Startingover 05-14-2013 06:57 PM

When off, how long does a HWH hold heat?
 
Turned my 40 gal. HWH off 24 hrs ago. Water was still hot enough to shower just now. It felt normal. Do they really hold the heat this long? Sort of worried it isn't really off. The timer light, on the wall above it went off when I flipped the breakers.

thanks

Ghostmaker 05-14-2013 07:12 PM

Tanks are insulated now... But it will not last for a another shower.

Ghostmaker 05-14-2013 07:35 PM

Go get a hot water tank I will walk you through the install...

biggles 05-14-2013 07:40 PM

once you shower or cycle the tank cold water is mixed and the temp drops....closing the stat to make the setpoint

gregzoll 05-14-2013 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Startingover (Post 1179499)
Turned my 40 gal. HWH off 24 hrs ago. Water was still hot enough to shower just now. It felt normal. Do they really hold the heat this long? Sort of worried it isn't really off. The timer light, on the wall above it went off when I flipped the breakers.

thanks

Depends on how old the unit is. What that means, is if it is over 12 years old, it would have possibly been insulated with fiberglass. Anything within the past 8 or so years, closed cell foam would have been used to insulate the tank.

Also, what do you mean by timer light? Is there a timer that shuts off power to it at a set time, then turns back on power at a set time? Pictures of this "timer" light helps to help us help you better. If it is a timer unit, most have a manual switch inside that you can move to turn on or off, without having to wait for the clock to make a rotation to turn the switch inside on.

Also those timers can go bad over time, so it also helps when you post the picture of the outside, also post a picture of the inside of the unit, and any manufacturer & model number info on the plate inside the door for the timer.

RWolff 05-14-2013 08:58 PM

If you have an extra insulation jacket it basically doubles the R value, it will hold the heat quite a while, just dry some laundry and pile the clothes on a bed in a heap, the next day you can still feel some warmth in the pile of clothes.
Personally I prefer a standing pilot gas water heater, my previous one that came with the house had an insulation jacket over the unit the utility company provided free, the main burner NEVER came on unless I actually used enough hot water to trip the thermostat. Despite claims the pilot "wastes" gas that little pilot light alone was enough to keep the water at the set temperature or a little higher in a 40 gallon tank. Keeping the main burner off was certainly not a "waste" of gas, if it was an electronic ignition the stupid main burner would be coming on and off continuously.

When I replaced the unit about a year ago, I got another one with a standing pilot but haven't put an extra jacket on the unit.

Thurman 05-14-2013 09:13 PM

For some reason I still have a problem with people buying a device to heat HOT water. I've even seen signs in the big box stores advertising "HOT water heaters on sale".

TheEplumber 05-14-2013 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thurman (Post 1179566)
For some reason I still have a problem with people buying a device to heat HOT water. I've even seen signs in the big box stores advertising "HOT water heaters on sale".

Get used to it- architects and engineers use the term quite often on blueprints....:thumbsup:

Startingover 05-15-2013 05:55 PM

Update:

The plumber just came. He took the anode rod out and it was no bigger around than a wire clothes hanger. To test the HWH before replacing the anode rod he plugged the anode hole and said if it doesn't leak he would put a new anode rod in. If it leaked he said I need a new HWH.

Within 5 minutes it started leaking again.

I know the AO Smith is top of the line, but he said just to get a GE for $300 or Whirlpool so I have a 6 yr warranty and it will be cheaper for me. His fee seems reasonable to me so I'm lucky.

Dug thru my Goodwill donation box and retrieved my tea kettle I was giving away so I can heat water for dishes till Saturday.

The only thing I didn't know I was suppose to do.........I didn't turn off the water knob above the HWH, so it continued to leak until he got here.

I'm sorry it wasn't just the anode rod but I'm lucky I discovered there was a problem before I had a house full of company. And I'm lucky that, thanks to all of you, I now know if there's a problem to turn the electric off and to turn the water line off, so I learned something, which is the purpose of this site. Yes, the recessed area, on top, where electric is, was full of water and he said I could have gotten shocked if I hadn't turned electric off.

thanks for all your help.
ps

is it recommended that I buy a new drip pan? Maybe I will since things corrode, crack and crumble with age and the existing one is likely 9 or so, just like the HWH.

gregzoll 05-15-2013 10:36 PM

Tea pot, I just use a large kettle or boiling pot, when needing to boil water. As for needing now for dishes, just go out and get a Point of use and place under the Kitchen Sink. Most will run on 120vAC/20 amp, and also can run well for a 10 min. shower with no problems.

RWolff 05-15-2013 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thurman (Post 1179566)
For some reason I still have a problem with people buying a device to heat HOT water. I've even seen signs in the big box stores advertising "HOT water heaters on sale".

Yeah, why on earth would you want to heat up hot water!!!!

RWolff 05-15-2013 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Startingover (Post 1180082)
Update:

The plumber just came. He took the anode rod out and it was no bigger around than a wire clothes hanger. To test the HWH before replacing the anode rod he plugged the anode hole and said if it doesn't leak he would put a new anode rod in. If it leaked he said I need a new HWH.

Within 5 minutes it started leaking again.

I know the AO Smith is top of the line, but he said just to get a GE for $300 or Whirlpool so I have a 6 yr warranty and it will be cheaper for me. His fee seems reasonable to me so I'm lucky.



is it recommended that I buy a new drip pan? Maybe I will since things corrode, crack and crumble with age and the existing one is likely 9 or so, just like the HWH.

Odd, funny thing is the water heater that came with my house when I bought the house 15 years ago was gas "State" glass lined brand as I remember, and the date on the thing indicated it was from 1978, it never gave me any trouble but the drain valve would not drain so I left it alone.
It lasted for me 13-14 years and I replaced it about 1-2 years ago only because there started to be a drip around the drain valve.
I replaced it with one from Sears, and when I cut the tank open on the State water heater it had lime buildup about 12" deep! (we have very hard water here)
So that water heater lasted about 34 years, the last 13 of it's life at least- it had never been drained/flushed because the drain was totally plugged by lime.
There are two water heaters at work from about the same vintage (electric tho) and they work fine and don't leak.

You must have really acidic water or something, the annode in my old one had plenty of metal, I can't explain why mine lasted 34 years and I read about other's having rust out and leaks in 5, only thing I can come up with is they are made crappier today than they were 34 years ago.

State is hardly a premium brand, in fact I think it was one of the cheapest ones made, given the type of people who lived here around then they would have bought the cheapest one they could find.

AllanJ 05-16-2013 06:00 AM

When a non-electric water heater has cycled off, air passing up the flue by convection, after slight heating from the pilot light, will start cooling off the water. The same turbulators or baffles that extract heat from exhaust gases to improve efficiency will cause the water in the tank to heat plain air in the flue when the heater has cycled off. I am not sure how effective a metal plate inserted in the slits in the flue at the top of the water heater after manual shutoff will block the convection and heat loss without putting out the pilot light but at any rate it should have a cord or chain leading down to the controls so you remember to remove the plate before turning the heat back on.

Some kinds of lime and other deposits are sufficiently non-porous so as to protect the tank from rusting much as the glass or porcelain lining does.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWolff (Post 1180313)
Yeah, why on earth would you want to heat up hot water!!!!

Because it was not hot enough. Next question.

COLDIRON 05-16-2013 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thurman (Post 1179566)
For some reason I still have a problem with people buying a device to heat HOT water. I've even seen signs in the big box stores advertising "HOT water heaters on sale".

" No big deal everyone knows what the person is saying when they say hot water heater or water heater besides it is a hot water heater it heats water till it's hot, it's not a cold water heater". Um ! Maybe it is a cold water heater ---it heats cold water till it's hot."

MTN REMODEL LLC 05-16-2013 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AllanJ (Post 1180384)


Because it was not hot enough. Next question.

So it should be called a "Not hot enough hot water heater" :thumbsup:


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