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Old 10-05-2012, 01:52 PM   #16
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There is no way for the air to get out. It will be trapped. To see the principle take a pop bottle. Turn it with the open end down and push it into a pail of water. The water will rise slightly inside the bottle but since the air can't get out it will be trapped.


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Old 10-05-2012, 02:26 PM   #17
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Perhaps you have above-normal water pressure for your house which might explain why previous owner installed these water hammer resistors.

It really should not cost you a lot in terms of money and time to restore it's original setup; otherwise, if you decide to skip it, you may end up opening this wall again (or some other walls) to deal with water hammer effects.

Here is a link to wiki article which explains the what and how questions (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer)

Good luck
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Old 10-05-2012, 02:51 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
Yes, over a long period of time the air will mix into water though. Then if you drain the water down it will pocket air again

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Because the air is lighter than water....it will stay up in the pipe.

It should work as intended....as long as there are no leaks.....you could have a really really small leak....enough for air to go out...but not water....so eventually, the air gets pushed out and you end up with a tube full of water doing nothing for you.
Even if you are on the right track, you will still get run over if you just sit there.

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Old 10-05-2012, 03:32 PM   #19
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Ok so just buy a 3/4 to 1/2 inch T and be done with it? (Or I guess a 1/2" T with a 3/4 to 1/2" reducer bushing) Am I missing anything?

Last edited by noone; 10-05-2012 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 10-05-2012, 03:40 PM   #20
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I haven't dealt with CPVC but I would prefer to use a tee with 3/4" and 1/2" so that there is less chance for leaks (http://www.lowes.com/pd_133209-322-5...r|1&facetInfo=)


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