What’s the best way to remove pipe from T
Hello, I need advice, please.
What’s the best way to remove ¾ “100psi Black plastic water pipe from one side of a T- fitting? And a few other Questions. I'm giving a lot of info so you'll have the whole picture.
I have a water leak in the underground water line, still trying to find it. Where I thought it was, the water pipe is dry, although water is seeping in from the sides of ditch. I dug down two feet to and under pipe, wiped pipe off and it remained dry. I decided to put a shut off value on the line in front of the T-fitting as it will turn off the water to the barn and garage.
I have one side of the shut off valve and fitting installed. The other side of the pipe which goes to the T- fitting isn't hooked up as I cut the pipe too short. So I’ll have to remove the pipe on the T-fitting and put on a new section of pipe from the T- fitting to the shut off valve, about 12". I need to remove original short piece of black plastic water pipe off the T-fitting .
Q: what is the best way to do that so I don’t disturb the other two lines on the fitting?
My husband did the T-fitting when he did the water line 12 years ago. The T-fitting is plastic or pvc?? and appears to be in good shape. I don’t want to replace this fitting as I don’t want to disturb everything and possibly cause more problems. I know he always used pipe dope and thenI think some kind of glue over the fittings, but am not certain of the glue.
The side of the shut off valve not hooked up tells me that the line to the garage and barn is not leaking since that side is disconnected. I’m going to dig further on the section of pipe with the shut off value on it as I still think the leak may be about 5’ from it, due to the ground being really soft in that area. If it isn’t there then I’ll have to wait till summer.
Q: Any thoughts on how to find a leak in the ground?
A friend is telling me it's ground water seepage. I'm having a hard time buying that as another ditch I dug is not having any ground water seepage. I think the leak is running downhill and that is the water I'm seeing. As the ditch with the shut off value is now about 8" deep with water. This is downhill from where I think the leak may be.
Q: Any thoughts?
Q: If I have to wait to find the leak, can I turn the water pressure down at the meter without causing any problems? WIll that even do any good?
Q: Will waiting till summer cause any problems other than the water bill being high?
How do I know there is a leak? Water bill consumption was way up as if summer time. Turned all water off in the houses and checked the meter, the flywheel was going around. This is indicative of a leak per the water department. A few weeks prior to getting the bill, I noticed one area behind the garage is really spongy and I sink when standing there. I started digging at the hose bib on the back of the garage which comes out to the T-fitting. The wet area is about 5 ft from this area.
I checked the toilets, did the food coloring in tanks and checked their over-flow valves – all okay. Checked all the faucets inside and out and water heaters, all okay. Crawled under the crawl space of both houses, both are dry.
I’m rural, farm on city water. Running water all year long, dig down 2’ and hit hard pan. Ground is clay and rocky and this time of year it is totally saturated everywhere. Our winter is rain.
I appreciate all thoughts and suggestions.
Thanks in advance,
Best way to remove pipe from T-fitting
Since no one has answered my questions, I’ll answer them in case anyone else should run into these problems.
After digging another 6’ along the water line, I never found the leak. The gentleman from the water company confirmed the water seeping in from the ditch was ground water.
How I solved the problem of removing the pipe. My septic contractor was available and he came over and taught me how to do it. If you need to have someone help you, watch, learn, and take notes so if it happens again, you can do it. Better yet have them direct you and you do it.
We replaced the plastic T-fitting with a brass fitting and removed the shut off value and put on brass fittings and re-attached it. He advised that I always go with brass, not plastic or metal.
Q: what is the best way to remove the black plastic water pipe so I don’t disturb the other two lines on the fitting? The T-fitting is plastic; after removing the clamps, you gently heat up the black pipe with a torch and gently tap the fitting with a hammer to remove it from the pipe. Do each section before moving onto the next. The fitting is plastic so you heat the pipe.
Putting on the brass fitting, you heat up the fitting and not the pipe. Put the fitting on and then cut a section of pipe larger than what you need and attach it to one side. Then you can put it over to the other fitting and cut it at the right length. That way you won’t short yourself on the pipe.
Q: Any thoughts on how to find a leak in the ground? The gentleman from the water company suggested as the ground dries out watch for wet or mushy areas. Use a metal rod and stick it into the ground. If it comes out damp, its surface water. If it comes out glistening it’s probably the leak. My septic contractor who knows my soil confirmed this is about the only way to find it until the ground is dry.
Q: If I have to wait to find the leak, can I turn the water pressure down at the meter without causing any problems? Will that even do any good? No, the water company advised against it.
Q: Will waiting till summer cause any problems other than the water bill being high? No. The water company did come out and confirmed the meter is working properly and there is a leak. It is a slow leak as the flywheel is moving slowly and stops for a second every half turn. I’m stuck with a high water bill until we find the leak.
Hope this info can help someone else with a similar problem.
a picture of what youre trying to do makes it easier to troubleshoot 1000 miles away.
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