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Old 06-29-2006, 06:27 PM   #16
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What do I cut this metal pipe with?


Most of the pipe is already 2", which is already larger than 1.5". You wouldn't add 3" pipe, you'd replace with it. I suppose the rest of the 1.5" pvc could be replaced with 2", which would give it slightly more volume.

Anyway replacing with 2 or 3" pvc is an easier solution than drilling a 3" wide hole through the concrete and to the drain line outside.

If there were tapered fittings then that would get rid of any ridges or possible build up of lint. I wonder if lint, or dirt sludge etc, builds up in water pipes where they are reduced, coming into the house or going to the garden etc. I've never noticed that but guess it is possible.

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Old 06-29-2006, 06:28 PM   #17
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What do I cut this metal pipe with?


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Originally Posted by Ron The Plumber
Best option is to replace the fittings to drainage fitting, and clean the line out to it's full bore, if replacement is not possible. the fittings you have there now are no where close to drainage fitting, they are what you call water fittings, and not allow to be used for DWV by code.
Thanks for the advice Ron. I'm not familiar with terms from the field - could you dumb it down for dumb? Thanks to your tips, I gather that my plan 1) won't work and 2) will be a code violation. Both caught my attention. What do you recommend I do?

I already replaced the trap's 1 1/2" PVC with 2" PVC. Would changing that long 48" section to 2" PVC and increasing the pitch help at all? be ok for code?

I saw a product at Home Depot that fits on top of PVC and holds the black hose in place and not allowing any overflow. Wouldn't this be bad for the washer?

The full details including pictures of the plumbing are here: http://home.comcast.net/%7Etrottavids/drain/drain.htm
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:35 PM   #18
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What do I cut this metal pipe with?


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Originally Posted by johnlvs2run
Most of the pipe is already 2", which is already larger than 1.5". You wouldn't add 3" pipe, you'd replace with it. I suppose the rest of the 1.5" pvc could be replaced with 2", which would give it slightly more volume.

Anyway replacing with 2 or 3" pvc is an easier solution than drilling a 3" wide hole through the concrete and to the drain line outside.

If there were tapered fittings then that would get rid of any ridges or possible build up of lint. I wonder if lint, or dirt sludge etc, builds up in water pipes where they are reduced, coming into the house or going to the garden etc. I've never noticed that but guess it is possible.
If the pipe comming out if the ground is 1.5" then the the trap arm and trap should remain the same, if the pipe comming out of the ground is 2" the trap arm and trap should be 2". todays code requires all laundry drains to be 2", I've seen many 1.5" lines, with a good cleaning and proper fitting handle the new washers they have on the marlet today.
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:38 PM   #19
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What do I cut this metal pipe with?


You could also add a T (tilt the T to the right to envision) in the center where the U comes back up, where it heads back horizontally to the left.

This would add length and volume to the pipe and allow more space for when the volume of water gets to be too much for the current diameters.
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:48 PM   #20
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What do I cut this metal pipe with?


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Originally Posted by mr_trotta
Thanks for the advice Ron. I'm not familiar with terms from the field - could you dumb it down for dumb? Thanks to your tips, I gather that my plan 1) won't work and 2) will be a code violation. Both caught my attention. What do you recommend I do?

I already replaced the trap's 1 1/2" PVC with 2" PVC. Would changing that long 48" section to 2" PVC and increasing the pitch help at all? be ok for code?

I saw a product at Home Depot that fits on top of PVC and holds the black hose in place and not allowing any overflow. Wouldn't this be bad for the washer?

The full details including pictures of the plumbing are here: http://home.comcast.net/%7Etrottavids/drain/drain.htm
DWV means Drain Waste and Vent, these are tappered fittings this making the water flow it the direction intended.

Water fittings are for pressure water only, if you look at a 1.5 DWV San-Tee and then look and a Tee for water only fitting you will see what I mean. The tee will not have a flow direction, a san-tee will, the tee you have just before it goes into the floor is a water fitting, imagine this, as water rushes to the tee there now, and water hits this tee, the waste water at this point tries to go up the tee as well as down, this is a problem along, using a DWV San Tee at this point and cause the water to flow in the downward direction, and not so much up the pipe.

You know what I would do at this point, Instede of a tee at that point, why not use a wye there, this will make thing ever better, and you will still have a cleanout spot for use.

Last edited by Ron The Plumber; 06-29-2006 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:57 PM   #21
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What do I cut this metal pipe with?


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Originally Posted by mr_trotta
I saw a product at Home Depot that fits on top of PVC and holds the black hose in place and not allowing any overflow. Wouldn't this be bad for the washer?
Not sure what the manufracture has to say about this device, but if you restrict the flow out of the waher, this I would think cause the washer pump to work harded and longer, this may or my not decrease life of the washer pump. If mine, I would not use this.

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