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-   -   What do I cut this metal pipe with? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/what-do-i-cut-metal-pipe-2755/)

mr_trotta 06-14-2006 11:23 PM

What do I cut this metal pipe with?
 
I have to cut the metal part of this pipe quite low to the foundation. The PVC above it is 1 1/2", so the metal pipe appears to be just a tad smaller. What should I use to cut it?

http://home.comcast.net/%7Etrottavids/drain/drain8.jpg

Rehabber 06-14-2006 11:32 PM

If you need to cut it flush with the floor, try a sawzall with a good metal blade. Use a lower speed on the sawzall or you will overheat the blade.

Mike Swearingen 06-15-2006 02:40 AM

Why do you need to cut it off? How are you going to connect anything to it if you cut it off flush?
It looks like threaded galvanized that probably can just be unscrewed out of a fitting below floor level.
Have you thought of just chipping some of the cement out first to see?
Mike

Ron The Plumber 06-15-2006 07:40 AM

Those are the same question I would have about this pipe, what is it to and are you still needing it?

mr_trotta 06-15-2006 09:00 AM

It's a LONG STORY, and I even asked advice of my Uncle who works in construction. The full details of the problem including pictures are here. After reading the whole thing, just know that I am now contemplating switching to 3" PVC.

Basically, I won't be cutting it flush, but a few inches above the foundation. The pipe is on the side of kitchen opposite the sink and main drain. The metal pipe ends up going underneith the tile in the kitchen. The PVC that connects above it at the 'T' joint goes to the laundry room, except the pipe is 4 feet long and perfectly horizontal. I'm trying to give it some pitch, but I've only given it a few inches. I'm doing this because when the washer pumps out the water, it starts to back up because the pipes cannot handle the brand new washer pumping water out so fast. If I cut the metal pipe, and then add a 'Y" joint, I can give it some pitch and hopefully the washer won't back up as much.

Oh, and I plan on connecting the 'Y' joint to the metal piece with a rubber adapter (flexible coupling).

My uncle recommended cutting the metal pipe with a "chain cutter" Is he thinking of something like this:

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/images/prod/1/02690.jpg It could be a tight fit because of the pipe's proximity to the wall.

Ron The Plumber 06-15-2006 09:24 AM

Use a sawsall to cut the pipe, if thats galvinized steel pipe, the snap cutter won't cut it. Using a fernco will do just fine when reconnecting it, use drainage fitting for all new fitting.

Ron

PSZach 06-16-2006 12:37 PM

I am guessing something like this is over kill hahaha.

But here is a Wheeler Rex 591-6 and a lot of other Pipe Cutters.

tribe_fan 06-16-2006 02:48 PM

Are you sure that the Pipe - (especially the metal part) isn't simply clogged ? I've seen some that had a build up in them. I'll guess you'll find out when you cut the pipe.

mr_trotta 06-17-2006 06:27 PM

It could be clogged, but I have no way of knowing until I cut it. My plan is to widen the PVC pipe from 1 1/2" to 3", give it a larger pitch, and before I apply the adhesive, I'll dump a bottle of drain unclogger down the metal pipe, and hopefully my problem will be solved.

johnlvs2run 06-28-2006 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr_trotta
The PVC that connects above it at the 'T' joint goes to the laundry room, except the pipe is 4 feet long and perfectly horizontal. I'm trying to give it some pitch, but I've only given it a few inches. I'm doing this because when the washer pumps out the water, it starts to back up because the pipes cannot handle the brand new washer pumping water out so fast.

The backing up sounds like it is caused by the room in the pipe not the angle.

Why not just switch to the 3" pvc first and see how that works.

You could raise that straight portion on the top a bit higher and maybe make that 3" pvc too.

Then you can leave the metal pipe as it is.

Also it might be possible to adjust the speed of the washer.

Ron The Plumber 06-29-2006 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnlvs2run
The backing up sounds like it is caused by the room in the pipe not the angle.

Why not just switch to the 3" pvc first and see how that works.

You could raise that straight portion on the top a bit higher and maybe make that 3" pvc too.

Then you can leave the metal pipe as it is.

Also it might be possible to adjust the speed of the washer.

I can't make heads or tells out of what your saying here.

As a plumber, increasing the pipe to 3" does not make the existing pipe drain faster, change the speed of the washer, please tell me how to make this happen.

johnlvs2run 06-29-2006 11:04 AM

The water is coming from the washer, not the pipe.

Increasing the diameter of the pipe, allows the WASHER to drain more quickly, and there is less pressure in the pipe to back up.

This is easy to test. Get a 1 gallon container, an 8 ounce glass, and a 2 gallon container. Fill the 1 gallon bucket with water, then quickly pour all of the water into the 8 ounce glass. Notice that most all of the water overflows, on the counter, the floor, the sink, or from wherever it is sitting.

Now fill the 1 gallon container again, and quickly pour the water into the the larger 2 gallon container. Notice the huge difference here, as none of the water overflows. If you have a 1/4 inch hole in the bottom of each container the same thing would happen. The 8 ounce glass doesn't have time to drain and rapidly overflows. The 2 gallon container has plenty of time to drain and none of the water overflows.

The same thing happens if you have a very small pipe coming from the washer vs a much larger pipe that has room for the outflow of water.

As to changing the speed of the washer, you'd need to check with a washer repair person for that, or the manufacturer of the washer.

mr_trotta 06-29-2006 04:22 PM

Perhaps these gifs will help. They are diagrams of what I have with all of the measurements and what I have and what I want to do. The only change is replacing the 48" 1.5" PVC pipe to a 3" PVC pipe and increasing the pitch.

Current:
http://home.comcast.net/%7Etrottavids2/washer0001.gif

Thinking of:
http://home.comcast.net/%7Etrottavids2/washer0002.gif

I'm wondering if the height of the black 1" tube is too high and so is the drop it makes in the white PVC initially. No? Make any difference?

johnlvs2run, I consulted GE (maker of the washer) and there is no way to slow down the water.

johnlvs2run 06-29-2006 05:15 PM

Increasing the pitch should not make much difference, as it's the volume of pipe below the black hose that counts. I'd change as much of it to 3" as you can. If you changed the pitch then there'd be slightly less volume in the pipe.

The height of the black 1" tube looks fine, as the water is getting past that level okay. The drop is fine too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr_trotta
johnlvs2run, I consulted GE (maker of the washer) and there is no way to slow down the water.

What if the outlet to the black hose was smaller. Then the water wouldn't be able to drain out as quickly. However it might just be forced through the smaller diameter more quickly, so the result would be the same. Personally I'd prefer to not mess with the washer.

I'd just try increasing the diameter of the pvc and see how that works. The water might not be overflowing by that much and the change in diameter could make all the difference. Plus that is easier to change than anything else.

Ron The Plumber 06-29-2006 06:59 PM

Adding 3" pipe to that 1.5" pipe on the upper end of the line creates a reduction in the drain line, this is against all know codes, I'm sure of.

This will cause a ledge it that point of reduction, this will cause build up of lent and what have you there, which leads to stoppages.

If you increase the pipe, you must increase the pipe the entire lenght, not just a section.

Best option is to replace the fittings to drainage fitting, and clean the line out to it's full bore, if replacement is not possible. the fittings you have there now are no where close to drainage fitting, they are what you call water fittings, and not allow to be used for DWV by code.


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