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mfoss001 01-11-2011 11:07 AM

Well water pump PSI below 10
I am living in a house with a 2 year old Gould's Pump. For a while now I have been having a plumber come over and try to fix the water situation and it works for a day. Here is a list of whats happening.

1) Water works for about 10 minutes then starts sputtering air until there is no water.
2) I prime the pump 5 or 6 times until it runs again.
3) Water works for about 10 minutes and sputters air again.
4) Every time I remove the plug to prime the pump air and water come shooting out.
5) Pump seems to get hot really fast.
6) even after a fresh prime the PSI doesn't get above 10.

There is a holding tank and that seems to always be empty as well as the hot water heater seems to be empty also. Plumber is refusing to help out anymore. The house was winterized in the fall and just reopened and this pump has nver had these problems before.

Thanks to anyone who can help!

Bondo 01-11-2011 11:44 AM

Ayuh,... Sounds like it's suckin' Air....

Maybe a leak between the pump, 'n the foot-valve...

DexterII 01-11-2011 01:12 PM

My first inclination is that the line between the well and the pump is bad as well, and I am not aware of any way to confirm this without digging it up. Very possibly froze, so near where the line enters the house would seem to be a logical place to start.

Grampa Bud 01-11-2011 01:33 PM

It sounds like you have a shallow well, with a jet pump. You should prime the pump again and check the lines from the well to the pump as well as up to the shut off valve to the house for any water and/or air leaks when you turn the pump on. That includes the pressure tank. There must NOT be any leak. When you say the well runs for about 10 minutes and then spits air you are only running on the prime, not on any water from the well. Assuming the line from the well is below the frost line for your area you have one of about 3 problems. A loose fitting or punctured line from the house to the well -underground-, a jambed or blocked footvalve -checkvalve- at the bottom of the well or the screen on the end of the well drive point is totally plugged with calcium deposits. A plumber should be able to fix problems between your pump and the house; a well man should be consulted to obtain and maintain the supply of water that the plumber needs to work with.

Mike Swearingen 01-11-2011 01:56 PM

As stated, it could be a number of things, but I would check the pressure tank air pressure first. It should be two PSI below the pump cut-on PSI.
Unplug the pump and drain the water pressure off and then check the pressure tank air PSI with a tire gauge.
It water comes out of the valve, the air bladder has sprung a leak and you will have to replace the pressure tank. If the air pressure is low, air it up with a bicycle pump or a portable air tank or compressor to the two PSI below cut-on.
Good luck!

Porky 01-12-2011 04:17 AM

Suction Leak!
You have a suction leak between the pump and the check valve in the well or the well isn't supplying water causing the pump to suck air. The pump getting hot is because it's not moving any water. Find and repair the leak.

Pstein 01-12-2011 10:04 PM

Porkyand GrandPa have your problem "nailed". You have a suction leak or the lack of water supply to the pump is causing pump cavitation. A pump can literally boil water when running in a constant state of cavitation. I am basing this on the assumtion the water pump ( volute and pump housing) is what is getting hot and not the motor. Find the problem or get ready to buy a new pump after cavitaion causes it to fail.

Thurman 01-13-2011 08:27 AM

I also agree with "Pork" and "Grandpa". One thing not noted is the age of the well, not the pump. You may be able to find out who/what well company put this well in and what year. Water tables are dropping all across the U.S. and your's may have dropped, only a well company can tell this. You may need to have your well "dropped" another pipe length, and at this time they would check and/or install a new foot valve.

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