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hellothere123 07-05-2010 07:17 PM

Weeping tile basics
 
I am going to use weeping tile to move some standing water in the yard away from my property.

I was wondering what slope to use...I have seen 1/4" for every 3 feet?

Also after making the trench do I lay gravel down then the pipe and gravel overtop? Or just gravel on the top of the pipe and not on the bottom?

Any ideas on how deep of a trench, I was thinking about 1 foot or so.

Thanks!

AllanJ 07-06-2010 07:44 AM

Note that the pipe will freeze up in winter if it it is less than about 3-1/2 feet below the surface (Not sure what reference lists the exact depth for your locality.)

Because it takes much longer for the ground to drain to a pipe 3-1/2 feet down as opposed to a pipe 1 foot down, weeping tile is not often used as a solution to water ponding on the surface. Any possibility of regrading the land so water doesn't accumulate?

(revised) Normally you line the trench with porous cloth such as weed control cloth, then lay down about two inches of gravel, then lay the perforated pipe (weeping tile) then backfill it with gravel to another two inches on top. I am no longer suggesting wrapping the cloth around the pipe because then only the portion (1/2 inch circle) of the cloth directly over each perforation in the pipe will pass water and this reduced surface area slows down collection of water in the pipe.

1/4" per 3 feet (one inch per 10 feet) should be sufficient.

Where will the weeping tile lead to? Ideally the ground surface slopes down away from the house sufficiently that it meets up with the pipe that still has its 1/4" per 3 feet downslope. (You won't be able to avoid freeze-up in the last several feet of pipe approaching surface level.)

concretemasonry 07-06-2010 10:18 AM

Where you want to collect or disperse water, you use a perforated pipe.

Where you want to carry water away, you use a solid pipe.

Obviously, a pvc pipe is superior to corrugated pipe because ot will drain much faster and cleaner and does not have "bellys" that collect water and debris due to sloppy installation, but a solid pipe with tight joints id easier to bed and install the a straight line with no dirt/water collects that ask for trouble.

You cn us a combination of perforated (holes at 4:00 and 8:00) to collect or disperse water and then solid to carry water away faster and cleaner. I have seen perforated used to collect water, solid to carry it away and then perforated, a pop-up or screened end for the discharge portion.

Dick

LateralConcepts 07-06-2010 10:44 AM

Seems as though simply re-grading the soil itself would be a simpler way to prevent standing water. Maybe bring in some topsoil and a bobcat and level it out with a slight grade away from the house then hydro seed it

hellothere123 07-06-2010 11:39 PM

I appreciate all the posts...

I talked to a contractor and he said that I have to relandscape...basically the house is the low point and the lawn has some mounds that don't allow the water to move away from the house.

Weeping tile early in the year will be frozen up and it isn't the best solution.

Thanks...here goes ANOTHER project...how can the list get bigger and bigger?


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