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Old 12-07-2009, 08:49 PM   #1
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watetr in the baseboard


hey guys...new to forum!!!!! i have water in my baseboard as it been keeping me up at night...can hear the water running...how can i remedy the problem...i know i have to bleed/purge the system...attached are some photos of my set up...any advice would be greatly appreciated
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watetr in the baseboard-furnace-002.jpg   watetr in the baseboard-furnace-001.jpg   watetr in the baseboard-furnace-003.jpg   watetr in the baseboard-furnace-004.jpg   watetr in the baseboard-furnace-005.jpg  


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Old 12-07-2009, 09:44 PM   #2
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watetr in the baseboard


1) Give us another picture that shows where and what the expansion tank is screwed into.
2) Do you have circulators or zone valves?
3) Where's the boiler circulator mounted?
4) I'm assuming you have copper fin tube baseboard, not cast iron?

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Old 12-07-2009, 10:01 PM   #3
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watetr in the baseboard


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishmael View Post
1) Give us another picture that shows where and what the expansion tank is screwed into.
2) Do you have circulators or zone valves?
3) Where's the boiler circulator mounted?
4) I'm assuming you have copper fin tube baseboard, not cast iron?

I think it has valves.......i;m almost sure i have cooper...but not completely sure...hope these pics help and i appreciate your help!!!!!
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watetr in the baseboard-furnace-2-001.jpg   watetr in the baseboard-furnace-2-002.jpg   watetr in the baseboard-furnace-2-003.jpg  
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Old 12-08-2009, 12:42 AM   #4
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watetr in the baseboard


Check the elbows going into the baseboards there should be bleeders at one end or the other, If not you'll have to power bleed the whole system with the fresh water fill valve and a hose coming out of one of the drain valves from each zone. Pretty much forcing the air out and closing the system up so no air gets back in. After the air is forced out of the system you should check the fresh water fill valve to see if it is operating properly,it must make up for evaporated water within the system. The fresh water fill is in jpeg4 it has orange and white sticker on it, If you pull the lever up it opens up the fill valve all the way to rush water through the system(fast fill), but if you open this freshwater fill valve all the way water will shoot out of the safety valve, which you don't want to do. So you have to open one of the drains and hook a garden hose up to it and run it outside to relieve some pressure. Honestly it is a simple procedure if you have all the drains needed in the righ places and the check valves are in place. It is hard to make heads or tails of your system from pics and not knowing exactly where things go. You might want to call someone in to do it just because it looks very confusing what's going on there. But check for the bleeders at the baseboards first if you have them you could do it.

Last edited by James Con; 12-08-2009 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 12-08-2009, 02:00 AM   #5
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watetr in the baseboard


Now that I look at it it looks like the valve going to your freshwater fill valve is closed. Meaning there is no make up water, that is why your system is waterfalling.That valve needs to be working in order to bleed at the baseboards. Your wasting money heating like this. Best thing to do is call someone in atleast to get an estimate.
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:58 AM   #6
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James Con is right on all counts. The fill valve is closed, so I have to ask why. And since a heating system is supposed to be a closed loop, I have to wonder where the water is going and how is the air getting in? So I notice there's a short black nipple and a cap screwed into the backflow valve right next to the fastfill and things start to make a little more sense. Here's my guess:

1) First sign of a problem - water dripping from the backflow. Solution?: Close the shut off valve.

2) Backflow still leaking. Solution #2? Plug it. Usually when the backflow is dripping (assuming you still have full street pressure on the inlet side) it means the expansion tank is probably waterlogged - the diaphragm has failed.

3) Now the little drip is "fixed", but with no room for expansion, the excess water pressure (as the system heats up to temperature) blew out through the boiler relief onto the floor behind the boiler (or into the bucket that was placed there when it also started to drip).

4) With the excess pressure now gone and the fill valve closed, there's no more water spewing from the boiler relief and you're left with a system that drops to about 5psi when the boiler cools down; a system that's got lots of air circulating through it and keeping you awake with all the gurgling.

5) On top of that, it looks like all three can vents in your pictures are closed (although it's hard to tell for sure). They also look like they've seen better days.

Like James Con said, you should probably call someone to take care of it only because all of it will take him about an hour (or less) to fix. But if you're not sure what you're doing, you could be struggling with it all day. What's your time worth?

Last edited by Ishmael; 12-08-2009 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 12-08-2009, 09:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishmael View Post
James Con is right on all counts. The fill valve is closed, so I have to ask why. And since a heating system is supposed to be a closed loop, I have to wonder where the water is going and how is the air getting in? So I notice there's a short black nipple and a cap screwed into the backflow valve right next to the fastfill and things start to make a little more sense. Here's my guess:

1) First sign of a problem - water dripping from the backflow. Solution?: Close the shut off valve.

2) Backflow still leaking. Solution #2? Plug it. Usually when the backflow is dripping (assuming you still have full street pressure on the inlet side) it means the expansion tank is probably waterlogged - the diaphragm has failed.

3) Now the little drip is "fixed", but with no room for expansion, the excess water pressure (as the system heats up to temperature) blew out through the boiler relief onto the floor behind the boiler (or into the bucket that was placed there when it also started to drip).

4) With the excess pressure now gone and the fill valve closed, there's no more water spewing from the boiler relief and you're left with a system that drops to about 5psi when the boiler cools down; a system that's got lots of air circulating through it and keeping you awake with all the gurgling.

5) On top of that, it looks like all three can vents in your pictures are closed (although it's hard to tell for sure). They also look like they've seen better days.

Like James Con said, you should probably call someone to take care of it only because all of it will take him about an hour (or less) to fix. But if you're not sure what you're doing, you could be struggling with it all day. What's your time worth?

Bingo, Yatzee, Hit the nail on the head. I love the play by play, Well said.
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Old 12-08-2009, 10:54 AM   #8
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watetr in the baseboard


I can't help you, but wanted to share this: I recently visited my daughter in Fairbanks, Alaska. In her home, and others I visited, I was amazed at these home heating units. Being from S. GA. and being used to just a "normal" heat pump system, I would look at one of these and think "the hot water goes round-and-round, then up-and-down" to heat a home. I'll stay in GA. Good Luck, David
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Old 12-08-2009, 11:49 AM   #9
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There was a valve replacement somewhere in that sequences as well, the old one is sitting on the floor in the lower center of the first picture...
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:27 PM   #10
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watetr in the baseboard


thanks guys....guess i'll call the local oil company have them take care of it and watch him like a hawk!!!!!!
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Old 12-09-2009, 12:37 AM   #11
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There was a valve replacement somewhere in that sequences as well, the old one is sitting on the floor in the lower center of the first picture...
No!! that wasn't a replaced valve, It just fell off. lol Sorry Bosshog just a little humor
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Old 12-09-2009, 12:42 AM   #12
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thanks guys....guess i'll call the local oil company have them take care of it and watch him like a hawk!!!!!!
Very good, You don't want to damage the boiler and have to buy one mid winter, let alone get someone there to install it.

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