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Old 02-09-2010, 08:20 AM   #1
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


My iron filter has a Clack WS1 valve and it always leaks in the drain. I already replaced the spacer stack twice and still leaks... wtf?

If i open up the valve and re-seat the spacer stack, then it pretty much stops the leaking until the next regeneration

Anybody familiar with this issue and potential resolutions?

I have 3 Spacer Stack Assemblies and also replaced the main gear dial set. Every time I replace a part with a new one, it works well for 2-3 cycle and then starts to leak again

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Old 02-09-2010, 09:58 PM   #2
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerDOm View Post
My iron filter has a Clack WS1 valve and it always leaks in the drain. I already replaced the spacer stack twice and still leaks... wtf?

If i open up the valve and re-seat the spacer stack, then it pretty much stops the leaking until the next regeneration

Anybody familiar with this issue and potential resolutions?

I have 3 Spacer Stack Assemblies and also replaced the main gear dial set. Every time I replace a part with a new one, it works well for 2-3 cycle and then starts to leak again
Unless you don't have it in right (which I suspect), you should always replace a stack and the piston, not just one or the other. The same as for a Fleck piston and seals.

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Old 02-10-2010, 07:35 AM   #3
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


I never did order a piston, I will try that next. To be safe, I'll order another stack as well.

Just to confirm, the piston you are referring to is circled in red in diagram attached.

Also, I think I installed the stack correctly, I used a rounded stick to push in the center of the stack firmly on the inside as per the instructions.
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:53 AM   #4
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


That is only the brine piston, I can't see the numbers that well but it looks like #4a and 4b, that is the main piston and will be up flow or down flow. You need a new one of them including a new brine piston.

A stick!! Maybe that is damaging the seals. Do not touch the clear lips of the seals with anything but water or the pistons.

I've never read anywhere that you should use a stick. You push the stack in by hand.

Then put the piston in the hole and screw the drive end cap in to tighten it exactly as the instructions in the manual say and stop.

Before you buy anything new, find and follow the instructions about replacing the piston and see what happens when the stack is positioned correctly; without a STICK!
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:24 AM   #5
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


Not a wood stick per se, I was using rubber covered wrench handle as a "blunt object" as per instructions:

"The spacer stack assembly can be pushed in to the control valve body bore by hand. Since the spacer stack assembly can be compressed it is easier to use a blunt object (5/8 to 1-1/8 in diameter) to push the center of the assembly into the control valve body."
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Old 02-10-2010, 05:50 PM   #6
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


Well to my knowledge that's not from Clack or in any of their manuals and the drive end cap does the compressing as you tighten it. But you have to follow the instructions so you tighten it just enough to compress it and stop in the right place, how should be in the manual you copied the picture from.
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:34 PM   #7
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


Yup, straight from Clack Manual

http://www.clackcorp.com/valve/Manua...ice_Manual.pdf

See page 38
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:32 PM   #8
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


I stand corrected, that is a newer manual than mine but... you should follow the instructions at the top of page 38.

Page 38 WS1 & WS1.25 Drawings and Service Manual
To remove the main piston fully extend the piston rod and then unsnap the main piston from its latch by pressing on the side with the
number. Reattach the main piston to the drive cap assembly. Reattach the regenerant piston (if needed) to the main piston. Do not lubricate
the piston rod, main piston or regenerant piston. Lubricant will adversely affect the clear lip seals.

Reinsert the drive cap assembly and piston into the spacer stack assembly and hand tighten the drive cap assembly. Continue to tighten the drive cap assembly using a screwdriver as a ratchet until the black o-ring on the spacer stack assembly is no longer visible through the drain port.

Excessive force can break the notches molded into the drive back plate. Make certain that the main drive gear still turns freely. The exact position of the piston is not important as long as the main drive gear turns freely.

Reattach the drive assembly to the control valve and connect all plugs. After completing any valve maintenance involving the drive
assembly or the drive cap assembly and pistons unplug power source jack from the printed circuit board (black wire) and plug back
in or:
• For valves that use a TC circuit board (three buttons) press and hold SET and DOWN buttons for 3 seconds. The cover button
may have other names like “SET HOUR”, “CLOCK” or “SET CLOCK” but the circuit board is labeled with SET.
• For all other valves press and hold NEXT and REGEN buttons for 3 seconds.
This resets the electronics and establishes the service piston position. The display should flash all wording, then flash the software
version and then reset the valve to the service position.
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:20 AM   #9
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


Hey Gary, the saga never ends, I replaced all the internal parts and after 3 successful regenerations, it is leaking yet again.

I think I found the problem, the first set of o-rings on the spacer stack always get worn down - that is the common problem I identified on all 4 of my spacer stacks. So.... I'm thinking that maybe some greensand is leaking through the stack? I do see a few grains. Could this be my problem?
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:49 AM   #10
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


What is the backwash rate?
How many gallons per minute is the flow control for your unit?
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:32 PM   #11
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


6GPM is the rated supply flow rate

As per spec of unt: Requires a 5.3 gpm well pump flow rate.
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:42 PM   #12
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerDOm View Post
6GPM is the rated supply flow rate

As per spec of unt: Requires a 5.3 gpm well pump flow rate.
If you are getting green sand media into the valve there are only a few reasons.
A) backwash rate to high, ie should be 5gpm and 7gpm is getting used.
B) crack in distributor tube in upper part to let backwash flow add extra flow at the upper part getting some of the media to get into the valve.
C) getting air into the system so that a boiling like action takes place and getting some of the media into the drain line and valve.
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:46 PM   #13
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


This is the unit:
http://www.affordablewater.us/Greens...t-P354C82.aspx

Not sure what you mean by
C) getting air into the system so that a boiling like action takes place and getting some of the media into the drain line and valve.

It does claim to have air-injection to activate the greensand
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerDOm View Post
This is the unit:
http://www.affordablewater.us/Greens...t-P354C82.aspx

Not sure what you mean by
C) getting air into the system so that a boiling like action takes place and getting some of the media into the drain line and valve.

It does claim to have air-injection to activate the greensand
We have all seen water boil on the stove, when a system backwashes the water is steady in its flow, the boiling that I am talking about is when air is down in the media along with the water and there is the bubbling and that can get media into the valve and drain line.

How often is the unit going into a cleaning cycle?

Is there a second backwash after the air draw part of the cycle?

When I am using green sand it is using potassium permanganate for the recharge.

Have any of the settings been changed?

Last edited by Akpsdvan; 04-16-2010 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 04-16-2010, 03:06 PM   #15
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Water Treatment - Clack Valve always leaking


How often is the unit going into a cleaning cycle?
>> I run it manually once a week, and plug the drain after the backwash

Is there a second backwash after the air draw part of the cycle?
>> Yes, there are 5 cycles, 1 is backwash, 2 is air generation, 3,4,5 and rather fast and not sure what happens


Have any of the settings been changed?
>> no

I need to get to 20 posts to use PMs

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