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dankreboot 07-06-2008 09:20 PM

Water source from fridge from water heater?

I need to supply the fridge I just bought with water for the ice maker. There is currently no source where the fridge will be. The sink is on the other side of the kitchen but there is a water heater on the other side of the wall. Would it be a good idea to get the water from the cold water source for the water heater and run it through the wall? Or should I look for another way?


Mike Swearingen 07-07-2008 09:54 AM

There is no reason why you can't tap the nearest cold water supply line, no matter what it's supplying.
If this is over a basement or crawlspace, it probably would be easier and look better to tap the line under the floor than go through a wall.
Just install a T in the line plumbed through the floor/wall with a shut-off valve on it behind the refrig with an adapter to connect to the 1/4" refrig water supply line.
Good luck!

RippySkippy 07-08-2008 09:16 AM

To elaborate a bit on what Mike said, it's best if you can install a T with a shut off (if your going into a wall behind the fridge, don't bury a shutoff in an area that could eventually be finished, just "T" up to an outlet box with a valve. If that's not an option use a saddle valve, again though, don't put it in a place that could be buried like above a finished basement ceiling later.

Sidebar: My previous neighbor had that happen to him...bought the house with the appliances, fridge w/ice maker. Fridge died, and the plastic supply tube went through the kitchen floor into the basement ceiling, and was old and brittle. When the fridge was remove the tube cracked, and the only way to shut it off was to first turn off the whole house water supply. Later we decided to see if we could locate the supply shut off to replace the plastic tube with copper. We did...but had to poke a couple of holes in his basement ceiling to get to it. Of course we removed the valve and relocated the supply tube to a more convenient location.

I personally have not had the best luck with the saddle valves. I would recommend using copper supply tubing rather than the vinyl/plastic. I've had way better luck with copper as it does not get brittle over time, one leak is too many when it's behind/under the fridge.

dankreboot 07-11-2008 01:10 AM

I've tapped the cold water going to water heater
I've used a T plus some reducers and some tubing, but it seems to be release a tiny bit of water (enough to form a drip after about 10 minutes) at the T , everything is brand new, and I've used the thread tape, is there too much pressure? Is there something I can possibly do to prevent any type of water being released?

Mike Swearingen 07-11-2008 01:18 AM

What type of pipe and what type of T? Is it a threaded fitting or a compression fitting?
If it's threaded, you can add pipe compound to the teflon tape on the threads and tighten the fitting more.
If it's a compression fitting, the brass ferrule rings seal it, not the theads. Smear pipe compound or clear silicone on the ferrules. You do not need to put anything on compression fitting threads themselves.
Good Luck!

Marlin 07-11-2008 05:30 AM

Take a picture if you can.
Use a copper tee that is 3/4", 1", or 1/2" (depending on the size you're tapping into) by 1/2" sweat. Use a short piece of half inch pipe and a 1/2" sweat by 1/4" compression speedy valve.

Alan 07-11-2008 09:03 AM


Originally Posted by RippySkippy (Post 137073)
I personally have not had the best luck with the saddle valves.

We don't use them either, i'm not sure if they're illegal or if my boss just doesn't like them, but they create turbulence, which wears out the pipe more rapidly as we all know.

Marlin 07-11-2008 03:40 PM

They are illegal almost everywhere and I would highly recommend against them.

Yoyizit 07-11-2008 04:34 PM

Can you post links that talk about turbulence, pipe lifetime, laminar flow and vibrating faucet washers?
This turbulence/pipe-lifetime relationship is news to me.

Thanks (not an Mech. Eng.).

Alan 07-11-2008 08:21 PM


Originally Posted by Yoyizit (Post 138225)
This turbulence/pipe-lifetime relationship is news to me.

I don't know about any source info, but thats why plumbers always ream/deburr their copper pipes when they solder, and why hot water lines in a recirc system fail sooner than the cold side.

Yoyizit 07-11-2008 09:19 PM

recirc system
Good keywords!

mstplumber 07-12-2008 10:08 PM


I'm not clear on where you are having the leak but here is the simplest set up:

Cut a tee into the cold water line that feeds the water heater, since you indicated that was the closest source of cold water.

This is usually a 3/4" line, so use a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Tee. (This has the 1/2" out the side.)

Either install an icemaker box in the wall behind the fridge (recommended) or just stub the 1/2" pipe through the wall and install a 1/2" x 1/4"OD stop.

Use one of the new prefab type connectors, either braided or the hose type, to connect to the fridge. These eliminate the problems with both copper and plastic lines.

Whatever configuration you decide on, there should be no leak, no matter how small.

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