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Old 06-10-2013, 11:35 PM   #16
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Water Leak from Behind Drywall


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Oh look at all the lovely black mold that's been growing back there.
If that was black mold I would be setting my house on fire

My house is stucco and that's just the waterproof backing. The floor is black, but most of it actually wiped up quite well with a little bit of bleach. I'm actually quite surprised at how clean it is now.

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Old 06-11-2013, 04:41 AM   #17
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Water Leak from Behind Drywall


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Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
Mike- what blade do you recommend? I bought Ryobi's tool this weekend to tackle a house bib inside a cabinet. The blade that came with the tool would only dent the pressboard back- ended up using a sawzall
Mine is from Harbor Freight---Any one of the wood blades would work.

I often use the Japanese toothed blade--the teeth are rather aggressive.

Saturday I cut through 1/2" varnished particle board cabinet floor--not a problem.
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:54 AM   #18
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Water Leak from Behind Drywall


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Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
Mike- what blade do you recommend? I bought Ryobi's tool this weekend to tackle a house bib inside a cabinet. The blade that came with the tool would only dent the pressboard back- ended up using a sawzall
Turn it on....................... Sorry, I couldn't resist
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:56 PM   #19
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Water Leak from Behind Drywall


I'm actually thinking about tackling this myself now. I went under my house and saw the drain pipe connected to the problem. It's basically an elbow supported by concrete, which then leads to the main drain branch and is all cast iron.

I'm planning on supporting the cast iron leading to the main branch with 2x4s and such, but what about the vertical pipe? Does it need to be supported before I cut it? I don't want it to fall out of the wall =\
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:19 PM   #20
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That can end up being a tough job. Can you post a couple more pics of your situation so we can see what you are seeing to better help you?

If hiring a certified plumber for this job is out of the question, then please proceed with caution.

IMO, yes, I would diffinately support the vertical cast iron piping somehow before you cut it, cast iron piping is very heavy. 2x4s and steel pipe hangers, something - just make sure it's well supported before cutting.

There are different ways to cut cast iron pipes depending on the situation. The easiest way to cut cast iron is with a rented snap cutter. You could also use an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc. The type of tool to be used will depend on your situation and type of clearance you have, etc. PVC replacement pipe with mission couplers finishes the project pretty easily.

For safety concerns, please be sure to wear a mask and goggles when you cut the pipe. There will be a lot of dust and goop and such that you don't want to get on or in you.


snap cutters


Good luck!

Last edited by jmon; 06-17-2013 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:38 PM   #21
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I think I've heard enough warnings from this forum as well as my wife that I probably shouldn't take this on myself. I have enough experience with "projects" that end up wrong

For posterity, here is what my crawlspace looks like:
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:32 PM   #22
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t60, thanks for the photo. Great photo, now I see what your up against. Looks like galvanize and cast iron. Sorry for all the warnings, we just don't want anyone getting hurt.

Sounds like your determined and have a good handle on it. Let us know of your progress and if we can be of further assistance. We have pro's on this forum with many years of experience that can give you excellent advice for your situation. Thanks.

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Old 06-17-2013, 09:07 PM   #23
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The general rule of thumb, when dealing with old galvanized or iron drains---remove whatever you can get at and replace with PVC---

We are here to help---
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:54 PM   #24
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Thanks for the info. I have a 9 month old at home and would probably rather spend the weekend with him rather than trying to figure this one out on my own. I will get several quotes and keep everyone updated on what I decide to do.
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:29 PM   #25
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I got my bids and the person I hired is doing the work as I type this. Not sure if anyone wants to read the drama behind the quotes (it's LONG!), but here goes:

I called company A and B. A gave me a quote over the phone for $1100 using pictures I sent via text message (kind of strange, but ok). B gave me a quote for $825 in-person. I called A again and their plumber found out that the job seems to be smaller, so they quoted me $840 (they knew what B's price was, so I thought it was kind of strange that the price was so close). I overheard them speaking to their manager over the phone in another language, but they didn't know I understood it. They were basically sizing me up (i.e., 2 people in the house, big TV, new car etc..). I thought it was rude, but they were close enough in price and they could get started right away, so I authorized them to do the work. The price included snaking my kitchen line.

BUT, when they went into the crawl space, they found that the pipe isn't even connected! It goes straight into my foundation, and the picture of my crawl space is actually my kitchen drain pipe.

So then they said the job seems smaller than they expected, and re-quoted me at $660. I think they were taking advantage of me because they were ready to go. They were just going to cut slightly above the T and slightly below the T, and replace the pipe, that was it. I told them I'd think about it and they got kind of flustered. They were about to walk but then asked me what I thought would be a reasonable price was. I felt like I was buying a car! I went on and on about getting another bid and going with the lowest price. Both guys walk out to their trucks to talk. I knew they didn't have other work for the day since they came by so quickly, and they were talking for at least 15 minutes. The guy got on the phone with his boss and gave me new prices:

$220 to cut and replace the T
$150 to snake the line
$50 to install the dishwasher back

I started laughing because the dishwasher was uninstalled by yours truly. It takes all of five minutes to put the thing back. I thought about buying a nice snake tool and this gives me a good excuse to do it. $220 to cut and replace the T so I can spend my Saturday afternoon watching TV and using the computer? Sold.

Will post pictures of the new pipe. 90 day warranty to boot. He doesn't know this, but I'm recording every second to make sure they're not skimping out on anything. Maybe I should post the video later (sped up of course).

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Old 06-29-2013, 06:53 PM   #26
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Way to Go...
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Old 06-30-2013, 01:46 AM   #27
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:shaking my head:
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Old 06-30-2013, 09:36 AM   #28
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Bet no permit pulled either.....
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:54 PM   #29
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Water Leak from Behind Drywall


For the price I paid and the amount of work that was done, nope, no permit was pulled. I've pulled permits for plumbing work in my house before, and this would have been rubber stamped.

I'm all for permits as they enforce safe construction practices, however, I'm not for them when they are just government money grabs.

Here's a picture of the finished product:


I did a test and hear the water going through the pipe and not a drop of water came out. I am going to get the line snaked this weekend and call it a day.

Thanks for the help everyone.
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:56 PM   #30
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That would not be required permit work in my state

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