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-   -   Water Leak from Behind Drywall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/water-leak-behind-drywall-181624/)

t60 06-10-2013 03:24 PM

Water Leak from Behind Drywall
 
I used to think my dishwasher was the culprit, but I replaced the drain hose and double-checked the high loop, so I forced another leak after pulling the dishwasher out of the way:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGF3qCPixlY

We bought this house three years ago as a foreclosure and every time it leaked I would just wipe it up and be on my way. Now it looks like the drywall will have to get ripped out and replaced. The outlet will no doubt need to be replaced with a GFI as well.

This happens when my sink is really full, or half full with the garbage disposal on. Basically anytime water goes down really quickly.

It seems like this used to be an air vent of some sort that got cut off or some unfinished plumbing that the previous owner just skipped out on.

What are my options? This is a galvanized pipe that is basically open. I'm thinking I could cap it off with something, but my sink would probably drain slowly if this is an air vent correct? I just don't have the time or money to just rip out my walls and install an air vent properly right now. I think it would be cost prohibitive too as we have new cabinets and granite countertops with little to no access to the wall cavity.

I am likely going to contract this out if I can't just cap it off (I have a baby at home and would much rather spend my time with him than try to fix this), but I don't want to get ripped off either. Any thoughts?

DannyT 06-10-2013 03:55 PM

cut a bigger hole behind the DW so you can actually see what's there. looks like the sink is draining out into the wall. if it is galvanized it may be rotted out.

Ghostmaker 06-10-2013 06:02 PM

Close off the galvanized pipe and install a air admittance valve. Leave an access to it.

Then snake your drain with a 1/2 inch rod.

Your drain is to slow for one and the aav will seal it but allow air in when needed. This may not be to your local code. But what you have differently is unsafe.

oh'mike 06-10-2013 06:50 PM

Remove the drywall and let us see what you have-------

t60 06-10-2013 06:52 PM

Ok, I found out exactly what this pipe is:
http://i.imgur.com/mKXmCqg.jpg

I think there used to be a kitchen sink here (the place was remodeled right before I bought the place, apparently by some crappy contractor). I looked outside my house, and this pipe goes straight to my roof, which I assume is the vent pipe.

The question is, why did someone leave this open, and how do I fix this? I am thinking about calling a plumber to fix this "right" -- I'm assuming they just need to cap this with something. I don't see any visible threading though, as someone probably cut it off. What would a legitimate plumber tell me to do in this case, and how many hours would it take them to fix it?

I have some obvious water damage and the electrical outlet needs to be fixed (wiring and GFI) which are separate issues I am aware of.

oh'mike 06-10-2013 07:01 PM

Is the house on a concrete slab or is there a basement /crawl space below?

TheEplumber 06-10-2013 07:03 PM

Is your house on a slab? It looks like a cast iron 90 hub.
A plumber can clean out that joint and replace as much of the vertical pipe as possible. Should take a couple hrs to a half day.
Get as much wall open as possible and start your clean up soon.

t60 06-10-2013 07:17 PM

There is a crawlspace underneath. I barely fit under the house (I'm only 5'6" 140lbs). So just so I understand, is this job going to be closer to a few hundred, or a few thousand bucks? The only thing I worry about is the granite counters we have. There won't be a way for anyone to get access to the entire pipe. They will have to install it in pieces if that's the case, and I don't think that's going to be optimal.

TheEplumber 06-10-2013 07:24 PM

What little I know of your layout- the back of the sink cabinet needs to be cut out as well as the DW wall.
You or the plumber will need to access and replace the horizontal line, hor. to vertical tee fitting and the rotted section of vertical pipe.
Ideally, the pipe under the house should be inspected as well- for the same issue. The piping has seen better days and should be upgraded. As for time and cost- best to get some quotes.

t60 06-10-2013 07:35 PM

Ok thanks. I figured as such. I'll get some quotes and go from there. Any of you folks from the Bay Area? :) (worth a shot..)

oh'mike 06-10-2013 07:52 PM

I'll fix it for the cost of a plane ticket----:laughing:


A tip on opening the base cabinet back----Buy a Multi-tool---even a cheap one----they are ideal for cutting inside of a cabinet---

MTN REMODEL LLC 06-10-2013 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t60 (Post 1198883)
Ok thanks. I figured as such. I'll get some quotes and go from there. Any of you folks from the Bay Area? :) (worth a shot..)

T60....I'd do it for you picking up the Irish Coffeee bill at the BV.... but I'd have to advise you that you could probably get your place completely replumbed cheaper. GO Rockies... against the Champs

joecaption 06-10-2013 08:36 PM

Oh look at all the lovely black mold that's been growing back there.

TheEplumber 06-10-2013 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1198892)
I'll fix it for the cost of a plane ticket----:laughing:


A tip on opening the base cabinet back----Buy a Multi-tool---even a cheap one----they are ideal for cutting inside of a cabinet---

Mike- what blade do you recommend? I bought Ryobi's tool this weekend to tackle a house bib inside a cabinet. The blade that came with the tool would only dent the pressboard back- ended up using a sawzall :furious:

jagans 06-10-2013 09:06 PM

I would take the offer made by oh Mike. This is gonna run.


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