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Old 03-28-2013, 08:20 PM   #16
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water heater pressure relief valve drain


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Id like get around from soldering. One being don't want burn valve up.2 don't want any more burn marks on tank.

The more I look at this water heater. Who ever installed it 1/2 a$$ job.

Are u ready for this. The drain pipe connected to valve goes into drywall. And no where to be found under house. That's right ran in wall enclosed. In crawl space today I'm going to cut a hole in floor to confirm. Looking down through attic I'm 99% sure its enclosed. Drill hole used wire hanger right next drain hole in wall. And pipe is on other side of stud wall.

With that said. I'll run new pipe straight down through floor L off towards back of house out side
Cut the copper about an inch from the 90 on the horizontal side- stay away from the valve with heat.
Do yourself a favor and walk around the house- look for that pipe stubbed out of the rim joist.

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Old 03-28-2013, 08:22 PM   #17
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Last edited by jmon; 03-28-2013 at 09:25 PM. Reason: Not applicable
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:51 PM   #18
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Like E and Joe mentioned above, run your tpr extension a couple inches from bottom of pan so u can see if it's leaking. The way it is now u wouldn't know until it's too late.

If u use plastic 3/4 pvc u won't have to do any soldering.

Glad u got it all figured out now, let us know if u need anymore help or advice.
jmon- I didn't say to hold the line above the pan- at least I never meant to give that impression. This is a code violation in my area unless it is a grandfathered situation. If the T&P valve were to blow- the pan would never hold the water/steam. Sure, it would hold a drip....
One other point- PVC is not approved for T&P piping, It's not rated for the temps a T&P valve produces. CPVC, copper and galv iron are exceptable
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:18 PM   #19
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Roger that E, I read the post wrong, sorry for any confusion or misinformation.
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:54 PM   #20
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I think almost everyone on here said that the HWH needs to go into a pan, and the pipe from the pressure relief valve needs to go straight down and end 4 to 6 inches above the pan. You cant run it right through the floor. A drain pipe can go from the pan out side, but not the pipe from the PR valve. Use copper for the PR pipe, Just solder on a male adapter first on the bench, and screw it up into a new PR valve. No need to solder on the valve at all because the whole pipe and fitting just screws up into the PR valve. I would not use CPVC or PVC for the PR pipe. We are talking steam if the valve blows, and I don't trust plastic, glue and steam.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:38 PM   #21
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I think almost everyone on here said that the HWH needs to go into a pan, and the pipe from the pressure relief valve needs to go straight down and end 4 to 6 inches above the pan. You cant run it right through the floor. A drain pipe can go from the pan out side, but not the pipe from the PR valve. Use copper for the PR pipe, Just solder on a male adapter first on the bench, and screw it up into a new PR valve. No need to solder on the valve at all because the whole pipe and fitting just screws up into the PR valve. I would not use CPVC or PVC for the PR pipe. We are talking steam if the valve blows, and I don't trust plastic, glue and steam.
Everyone but me. This is what my code tells me to do....
UPC 608.5- Relief valves located inside a building shall be provided with a drain, not smaller then the relief valve outlet, of galvanized steel, hard drawn copper piping and fittings, CPVC, or listed relief valve drain tube....and shall extend from the valve to the outside of the building with the end of the pipe not more than 6" above the ground or the flood area receiving the discharge and pointing downward. Such drains may terminate at other approved locations.

How will that pan handle a T&P blowing 100%? I bet it overflows in a heartbeat. A WH pan is not an approved location. This is why the OP's pipe goes into the wall and travels somewhere. This is also why I suggested he walk the exterior to locate the end of it. It might even be poked through the wall to the garage..
End of rant
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:54 PM   #22
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Also, I don't see any issue with using CPVC on the TP valve. A properly functioning valve should kick open @ 150psi so we aren't talking steam, just dangerously hot water.

Wonder if you could pipe it to some kind of container with a water alarm inside it? That way you would be alerted if it started leaking.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:33 AM   #23
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Thanks for clearing that up ePlumber, I thought I read on here that the down pipe had to end 4 to 6 inches above the pan. Guess I was wrong. So it can be run outside, thats good to know and does make sense. I will stick with copper though, no sense going cheap on a safety belt.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:59 AM   #24
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Thanks for clearing that up ePlumber, I thought I read on here that the down pipe had to end 4 to 6 inches above the pan. Guess I was wrong. So it can be run outside, thats good to know and does make sense. I will stick with copper though, no sense going cheap on a safety belt.
In the end, it all goes back to the local inspector (AHJ) I'm sure you can relate to that
It kind of bugs me sometimes to see blanket statements applied when codes vary across the country. Someone using the IPC is now going to say my approved method is no good in his state.....
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:44 PM   #25
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Brizzle

Install a pan and run the T&P into the pan with an air gap. Run the pan drain through the floor. You absolutely want to know if that T&P starts dripping because it's a warning sign of a serious problem.

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