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brizzle 03-27-2013 11:48 AM

water heater pressure relief valve drain
 
I will be putting in a new floor this weekend in my kitchen. Currently my water heater is in my kitchen pantry. I want to remove water heater and put new floor under it. Re install water heater back in pantry

I have never removed water heater. I have did little research on this.

Shut power off
shut water inlet supply off
open all hot valves in house to relieve pressure
drain tank
remove electric
remove inlet and outlet hoses on top (compression fittings)
??? how to remove soldered in pressure relef vavle drain pipe.

The pressure relief valve drain pipe was soldered in. Stupid question but can i heat the fitting that is roughly 3 to 4'' away from the valve freeing the drain pipe to remove the water heater ( didn't know if there is any kind of rubber bushing in valve i was told not to heat up any valves that have rubber seals or bushing in them).

Considering i clean up connections can i reuse the fitting that i removed back to where it was.

If not can i use compression type fitting?

What is the procedure to remove water heater?
What kind of maintenance should i do to water heater while it is out?

thank you

fetzer85 03-27-2013 12:20 PM

Just opening the hot water at your kitchen sink should be fine, you shouldn't need to open every HW fixture. Other than that your plan looks good. The water will still be very hot when emptying so be careful.

When you say the pipe on your pressure valve is soldered, where is it going to? A picture would also help.

brizzle 03-27-2013 01:00 PM

The copper drain pipe goes in to drywall under house I assume to out side have not crawled under house to confirm. But I can tonight or tommorow

fetzer85 03-27-2013 03:17 PM

Someone with more experience will have to verify but I think the pressure valve does have a rubber gasket of some kind inside. So I don't know if heating up the fitting to undo it would be a good idea. If the pipe goes straight down below then you should just be able to loosen the fitting at the valve to remove the pipe. Know what I mean? Pressure valves have 3/4" female pipe thread so if you can just forget about the soldered piece and unscrew the entire pipe from the valve. If you're unsure of what I'm saying please post a pic or two.

brizzle 03-27-2013 03:34 PM

I have pic on my phone. I will take better pic tonight when I get home. There is nut and threads on this drain pipe below valve. It looks like solder around threads used solder like plumbers tape.

Might be able to break the nut loose and see if its compression fitting of some sort. It had to be heated up at least once hence the existing solder and burn marks on paper on tank. So hopefully there is no rubber gasket of any kind.

joecaption 03-27-2013 03:42 PM

The tank should have been installed sitting in a drain pan. The pan has a drain line that can be run outside.
The drain for the relief valve should have been run a few inches above the pan not to the outside.
Reason being is how are you going to know if it's leaking or if it's poped off if the heater is over heating and about to blow?
What you have now is not to code.

brizzle 03-27-2013 04:19 PM

Thats good to know. I had this house inspected and they never mentioned not being up to code.
Thanks for ur post. I will be sure to install a drain pan and run lines where there suppose to be.

TheEplumber 03-27-2013 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brizzle (Post 1147167)
I have pic on my phone. I will take better pic tonight when I get home. There is nut and threads on this drain pipe below valve. It looks like solder around threads used solder like plumbers tape.

Might be able to break the nut loose and see if its compression fitting of some sort. It had to be heated up at least once hence the existing solder and burn marks on paper on tank. So hopefully there is no rubber gasket of any kind.

Sounds like it may be a union on the T&P valve. That would be nice, but you'll have a gap if you're raising the floor height
T&P lines can pipe to the exterior or a floor drain, janitor sink, etc. However, my code does not allow them to be piped to a water heater pan nor can they be left terminated above the floor. Your local code will dictate how to pipe the relief valve as well as the pan. Since your heater is existing, you may be allowed to "grandfather" your conditions to satisfy local code.
BTW- when you refill the heater, be sure all the air is out of the tank before turning on the power- while filling, leave your tub valve HW open. Be sure a steady stream is coming out before energizing the tank

joecaption 03-27-2013 04:39 PM

Without a pan under it what do you think happens when that tank has a leak in the bottom of it? A simple leak can cause thousands of dollars in damage in no time.

TheEplumber 03-27-2013 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1147224)
Without a pan under it what do you think happens when that tank has a leak in the bottom of it? A simple leak can cause thousands of dollars in damage in no time.

If this is directed at me- I never said no pan was needed. I said I can't pipe a T&P to the pan. In fact a pan is required on finished floors.

Ghostmaker 03-27-2013 07:45 PM

I have a real simple question how old is the current hot water tank? A gas fired tank has a life of 6 to 8 years. Electric tanks start pushing things at 10 years. Yes a drain pan with a drain will be required.

brizzle 03-27-2013 11:34 PM

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps82d3490d.jpg

Thanks guys for all the post.

When i remove tank i will buy a pan to install underneath.

So this drain. Do I just need to break this nut loose. When tanks is lifted from new pan and new floor extend drain pipe to valve.

Is drain pipe suppose to be warm?

jmon 03-28-2013 07:08 AM

Looks like you'll have to unsolder or cut that piece of pipe first, whatever is easiest for u. That looks like a sweated male thread on copper pipe. Threaded into your tpr valve.

fetzer85 03-28-2013 11:11 AM

If it was me, I'd cut the copper line, remove the fitting and replace with c/pvc - if I can stay away from soldering in tight spaces I usually do. But you should do whatever you're comfortable with.

brizzle 03-28-2013 07:38 PM

Id like get around from soldering. One being don't want burn valve up.2 don't want any more burn marks on tank.

The more I look at this water heater. Who ever installed it 1/2 a$$ job.

Are u ready for this. The drain pipe connected to valve goes into drywall. And no where to be found under house. That's right ran in wall enclosed. In crawl space today I'm going to cut a hole in floor to confirm. Looking down through attic I'm 99% sure its enclosed. Drill hole used wire hanger right next drain hole in wall. And pipe is on other side of stud wall.

With that said. I'll run new pipe straight down through floor L off towards back of house out side


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