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Old 02-24-2007, 04:22 PM   #1
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Water Heater-Imediate Help Needed!!!


Please help!! We have a water heater that started to leak water out of the bottom of it. I shut off the main water flowing to the tank.

1. Do I need to shut the pilot light off?

2. Is there a way to make a temporary patch to the tank? I would like it to last one more week

3. How hard is this to replace? I have had many people tell me it is not that hard. My biggest concern is dealing with the gas line part of it.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

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Old 02-24-2007, 04:32 PM   #2
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Water Heater-Imediate Help Needed!!!


How bad is the leak?

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Old 02-24-2007, 04:33 PM   #3
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Water Heater-Imediate Help Needed!!!


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1. Do I need to shut the pilot light off?
Before replacing turn of the gas to the heater, should be a shut off valve near the heater.

Quote:
2. Is there a way to make a temporary patch to the tank? I would like it to last one more week
Nothing you can do, you have to replace it right away.

Quote:
. How hard is this to replace? I have had many people tell me it is not that hard. My biggest concern is dealing with the gas line part of it.
Not hard to replace, shut off gas, disconnect gas line at heater, shut water off to heater, drain and disconnect water lines on the top, remove when empty, place new heater, reconnect gas line, install new water connects on top of tank, turn water back on to tank, fill it up, check for leaks, no leaks, relight the heater, enjoy.
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Old 02-24-2007, 06:01 PM   #4
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Water Heater-Imediate Help Needed!!!


Thanks Ron. I went ahead and bought a new one. That's what credit is for right? Now I need to try and figure the installation out. I may be back with more questions. Thanks again.
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Old 02-24-2007, 07:12 PM   #5
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Water Heater-Imediate Help Needed!!!


I have copper lines coming from my water supply. It appears they are welded together. How do I disconcet this? I imagine I need a torch. Can I use the torch to cut anywhere or should I only use it where there is existing connections?
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Old 02-24-2007, 08:00 PM   #6
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Picture would be nice, but you will need to solder on male adaptors and then use flex connects between the male adaptors and the heater.
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Old 02-24-2007, 08:27 PM   #7
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You want pictures? I'll give you pictures. Stay tuned....
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Old 02-24-2007, 09:14 PM   #8
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Here are some pictures.

Here is my current tank:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSCF0098.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSCF0099.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSCF0100.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSCF0101.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSCF0103.jpg

Gas line:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSCF0102.jpg

Connection kit I purchased for the new one:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSCF0102.jpg

The connection kit looks like it has a compression fitting. So I think I just need to cut the current pipe and will not need to worry about using a torch. Is this accurate. I have never used a torch or worked with sweated fittings, so if I want to avoid that if I can.

Let me know what you think.
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Old 02-24-2007, 09:16 PM   #9
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http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSCF0097.jpg

I posted the wrong picture for the connection kit.
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Old 02-25-2007, 06:15 AM   #10
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That all looks good to me, yes the compression will work fine.
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Old 02-25-2007, 08:02 AM   #11
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That all looks good to me, yes the compression will work fine.

So I should not need a torch at all? I will just cut the pipe and the compression fitting will attach without sweating it to the pipe. Does this sound right?

I want to make sure, since I am heading out into an ice storm to get a few more things. I need a second pipe wrench for the gas line, gas joint fluid, pipe thread tape and a pipe cutter.

Let me know if I should get a torch and solder too. Thanks.
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Old 02-25-2007, 08:38 AM   #12
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No tourch needed.

Move the ground up so you can cut higher on the pipe.
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Old 02-25-2007, 09:04 AM   #13
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No tourch needed.

Move the ground up so you can cut higher on the pipe.
Is the ground necessary? It only runs from the intake pipe to the return pipe. I think it is an old ground.
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:19 AM   #14
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Ok on the ground, it could be there is a ground connected to the hot water line somewhere, so it was bonded to the cold side via the cross over, so best reconnect it.
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Old 02-25-2007, 12:11 PM   #15
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Is the ground necessary? It only runs from the intake pipe to the return pipe. I think it is an old ground.
The nec requires that all metal water pipes in a structure be bonded to the service panel. With some water heaters the fittings inside the heater insulate the hot and cold lines from eachother.

Since the cold water is bonded by defacto when the water line is used as the primary grounding electrode one way to bond the hot water pipes is a jumper at the hot water tank.

The code does not say that this is the only method that can be used to bond the hot water lines, just that they need to be bonded.

Newer plumbing fixtures do the same thing, if the hot and cold lines are both connected to the same metal faucet.

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