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Water Heater Connections (CPVC)

66K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  rmloan 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm plumbing our house with CPVC and have moved on to the water heater. I'm considering making the following connections (as illustrated by my MSPAINT masterpiece :laughing:).



I think I would rather use brass transition unions over the all CPVC versions with the elastomeric seal. Similarly, I feel more comfortable using the brass ball valve vs a CPVC version. All threads would be sealed with Oatey Great White pipe joint compound.

The unions are obviously designed to allow me to disconnect and move the water heater for maintenance. The additional union on the cold side (right below the valve) should allow me to disconnect the line and unscrew the ball valve. That way I won't have to cut the CPVC should I need to replace the valve.

I'm interested in hearing everyone's opinion on this configuration. Comments and suggestions for improvement are always welcome!
 
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#4 ·
I'm not a fan of CPVC, but I'd just use 18" flex supply lines connecting to the nipples on the heater. Stub your CPVC down with MIP adapters. On the hot side you'd connect your flex supply directly to the MIP. On the cold side, you'd connect a MIPxFIP ball valve, then your flex supply line. Either way, check your local codes.
 
#2 ·
I am getting ready to do avery similar install.
I am thinking about something similar, except replacing the piece of cpvc between the shutoff and tank with galvanized.
It just seems like a waste to use a MPT to cpvc transition just to switch back with another cpvc to FPT a foot or so later.
 
#6 ·
#9 · (Edited)
That's one complex system. How about you scrap everything in between the water heater and the ball valve and use a 3/4"MIP to 3/4" FIP flex line? (you can get them in 12,15,18 and 24 inch lengths) You can use a stainless braided, or use a BrassCraft polymer line if you feel like you've gotta have that dielectric isolation, which the polymer line provides.

3/4" MIP from hose into ball valve, and 3/4" FIP with gasket seal onto water heater. I agree with using brass or bronze ball valve. I would personally avoid plastic female threads since they can split easily.

I had better luck with pink or yellow, high density PTFE tape than pipe dope. I had a thread I couldn't get it to stop leaking with dope, but sealed right up with the pink tape.
 
#11 ·
I haven't read/heard anything that would suggest an issue with using heat trap nipples. I'm using the style with the small flapper on the one end of the nipple. (this end installed closest to the water heater) What reason/shortcomings exist in terms of using the heat traps?
 
#17 ·
Cpvc

I debated replacing leaky copper with copper or CPVC. Subsequently, copper was banned in my town due to an epidemic of pinhole leaks. CPVC is now code for all new construction. I'm glad I went with CPVC. It is much easier to work with and significantly cheaper.
Regarding the configuration question. That will work on an electric water heater. For a gas heater, I recommend galvanized pipe with a couple of turns to create space between the vent pipe and the CPVC. Galvanized pipe>Ball Valve> Shark Bite fitting> CPVC. That space can also be created with the flex pipe recommended by another poster.
 
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