Forums | Home Repair | Home Improvement | Painting | Interior Decorating | Remodeling | Landscaping


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Plumbing

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-17-2011, 01:15 AM   #1
Maryland
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Shore, MD
Posts: 361
Share |
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


I'm plumbing our house with CPVC and have moved on to the water heater. I'm considering making the following connections (as illustrated by my MSPAINT masterpiece ).

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)-plumbingdiagram.jpg

I think I would rather use brass transition unions over the all CPVC versions with the elastomeric seal. Similarly, I feel more comfortable using the brass ball valve vs a CPVC version. All threads would be sealed with Oatey Great White pipe joint compound.

The unions are obviously designed to allow me to disconnect and move the water heater for maintenance. The additional union on the cold side (right below the valve) should allow me to disconnect the line and unscrew the ball valve. That way I won't have to cut the CPVC should I need to replace the valve.

I'm interested in hearing everyone's opinion on this configuration. Comments and suggestions for improvement are always welcome!

Last edited by Pittsville; 01-17-2011 at 01:28 AM.
Pittsville is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2011, 02:53 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 288
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


I am getting ready to do avery similar install.
I am thinking about something similar, except replacing the piece of cpvc between the shutoff and tank with galvanized.
It just seems like a waste to use a MPT to cpvc transition just to switch back with another cpvc to FPT a foot or so later.
michaelcherr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2011, 12:47 AM   #3
Maryland
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Shore, MD
Posts: 361
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelcherr View Post
I am getting ready to do avery similar install.
I am thinking about something similar, except replacing the piece of cpvc between the shutoff and tank with galvanized.
It just seems like a waste to use a MPT to cpvc transition just to switch back with another cpvc to FPT a foot or so later.
You know... I hadn't even thought about using a nipple there. Simple, but efficient. Great idea!
Pittsville is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2011, 09:06 AM   #4
Owner
 
LateralConcepts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 967
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


I'm not a fan of CPVC, but I'd just use 18" flex supply lines connecting to the nipples on the heater. Stub your CPVC down with MIP adapters. On the hot side you'd connect your flex supply directly to the MIP. On the cold side, you'd connect a MIPxFIP ball valve, then your flex supply line. Either way, check your local codes.
__________________
Brad Penske, Operations Manager - Coeur d'Alene, ID
Lateral
CONCEPTS, LLC - Sewer & Septic Line - Video Inspection, Locating, Consulting
(208) 818-8241

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
LateralConcepts is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to LateralConcepts For This Useful Post:
JoeLena (01-19-2011)
Old 01-19-2011, 09:24 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 83
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


And I believe you'll need a transition for the hot side, the adapters all say for cold water only, here's a transition I found: http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/G...u=313632363530
JoeLena is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2011, 09:36 AM   #6
Owner
 
LateralConcepts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 967
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeLena View Post
And I believe you'll need a transition for the hot side, the adapters all say for cold water only, here's a transition I found: http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/G...u=313632363530
Actually that one appears to be a garden hose thread. This is the one you'd need on both sides
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...TF8&s=hi&psc=1
__________________
Brad Penske, Operations Manager - Coeur d'Alene, ID
Lateral
CONCEPTS, LLC - Sewer & Septic Line - Video Inspection, Locating, Consulting
(208) 818-8241

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
LateralConcepts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2011, 09:39 AM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 83
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


Doh! That's the one I meant!
JoeLena is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2011, 01:38 PM   #8
Maryland
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Shore, MD
Posts: 361
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


Yep, that's the one I'll be using. It's drawn (poorly) at the top of the cold side in my illustration above. With the configuration pictured, I was only using the one. Thank you both!
Pittsville is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2011, 05:25 PM   #9
Seasoned DIYer
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 187
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


That's one complex system. How about you scrap everything in between the water heater and the ball valve and use a 3/4"MIP to 3/4" FIP flex line? (you can get them in 12,15,18 and 24 inch lengths) You can use a stainless braided, or use a BrassCraft polymer line if you feel like you've gotta have that dielectric isolation, which the polymer line provides.

3/4" MIP from hose into ball valve, and 3/4" FIP with gasket seal onto water heater. I agree with using brass or bronze ball valve. I would personally avoid plastic female threads since they can split easily.

I had better luck with pink or yellow, high density PTFE tape than pipe dope. I had a thread I couldn't get it to stop leaking with dope, but sealed right up with the pink tape.

Last edited by HVAC_NW; 01-19-2011 at 05:28 PM.
HVAC_NW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2011, 06:47 AM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: N.C.
Posts: 413
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


Are heat traps still a good idea on the HW heater pipes?

Mechanical or simple horse shoe in the pipes?
Earnie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2011, 11:23 PM   #11
Maryland
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Shore, MD
Posts: 361
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Earnie View Post
Are heat traps still a good idea on the HW heater pipes?

Mechanical or simple horse shoe in the pipes?
I haven't read/heard anything that would suggest an issue with using heat trap nipples. I'm using the style with the small flapper on the one end of the nipple. (this end installed closest to the water heater) What reason/shortcomings exist in terms of using the heat traps?
Pittsville is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2011, 02:07 PM   #12
Seasoned DIYer
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 187
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Pittsville View Post
I haven't read/heard anything that would suggest an issue with using heat trap nipples. I'm using the style with the small flapper on the one end of the nipple. (this end installed closest to the water heater) What reason/shortcomings exist in terms of using the heat traps?
The shortcoming with the older metal ball type is that the make clicking noise whenever there is flow and sometimes, the ball becomes stuck and stops hot water.

I'm not sure, but I think the modern rubber flappers that look like flappers aren't nearly as effective compared to using insulated inverted U pipes on both sides, but I have no idea how much energy you'll save with installing external heat traps.
HVAC_NW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2011, 06:55 AM   #13
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: N.C.
Posts: 413
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


Restrictive flow may be an issue. I searched for 1" heat traps but could not find any. There are plenty in 3/4". The U is just pipe so no mechanical components to fail.
Earnie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 02:37 AM   #14
Maryland
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Shore, MD
Posts: 361
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Earnie View Post
Restrictive flow may be an issue. I searched for 1" heat traps but could not find any. There are plenty in 3/4". The U is just pipe so no mechanical components to fail.
Never heard is using U shaped pipes in this manner. Can one of you elaborate?
Pittsville is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 01:43 PM   #15
Seasoned DIYer
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 187
Default

Water Heater Connections (CPVC)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Pittsville View Post
Never heard is using U shaped pipes in this manner. Can one of you elaborate?
http://www.energycodes.gov/moodle/mo...iew.php?id=109

Just because of physics that hot water is lighter than cold water, it rises. Without a heat trap, the hot water rises up the pipe, it gets cooled, gets sent back to tank, and circulates like a lava lamp.

The inverted U traps the heat from going past the top of arch. I think its best to do it using 24" flexible pipes. If you use a bunch of 90 degree elbows you'll have turbulent flow that contributes to flow drop.

Also, spend the $20 or so and replace the drain spigot with a brass nipple and a 3/4" ball valve. Do it before you install it or as soon as you can. The most difficult part is probably removing the old plastic drain valve as it will break or twist around as you to remove it.
HVAC_NW is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How to properly drain and flush a hot water heater? speedster1 Plumbing 9 04-17-2012 09:55 PM
Raising Water Heater Tank doesntmatter Plumbing 6 09-30-2010 09:05 AM
A blocked water line causing water to loose heat? Snav Plumbing 6 05-07-2010 02:18 PM
water heater drip kdange1 Plumbing 5 05-04-2010 03:24 PM
Bosch 1600H Tankless Water Heater natemclain HVAC 13 08-24-2009 10:33 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.