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Old 10-31-2013, 09:15 AM   #1
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is it still ok to use a caped pipe as an arrester ? our current setup doesn't even have one, and doesn't knock. i will be extending this line to the new sink area.

also. is one need one both lines ? i seen a google pic that had only 1. i think it was the cold side, but idk.

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Old 10-31-2013, 09:47 AM   #2
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Why would you add one if there's no issues?
If your going to make your own a simple tee and a piece of 6" pipe facing vertical and a soldered cap will work.
Here's a few other options.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...stor&FORM=IGRE

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Old 10-31-2013, 10:05 AM   #3
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Why would you add one if there's no issues?

If your going to make your own a simple tee and a piece of 6" pipe facing vertical and a soldered cap will work.


Here's a few other options.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...stor&FORM=IGRE

i am removing the old, and extending the line to the new.
it would be a lot easier to head off a problem, than fix it later.

i know i can buy them. but if i can make them and they work well just the same. i would rather keep the cash in my pocket. know what i'm sayin.
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Old 10-31-2013, 11:54 AM   #4
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The air chambers that you make will eventually get water logged and will stop working. Install hammer arresters on both lines. However, you will mostly notice a difference at a fast acting solenoid valve such as a washing machine or an ice maker.
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Old 10-31-2013, 06:13 PM   #5
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Home made hammer arrestors no longer meet code and make you have to drain down the entire waterline every time they fill with water. Personally I prefer using the correct one and not messing with my plumbing when I can be doing things I enjoy doing.
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:35 AM   #6
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i bought and installed 2 of them, $25. on to the next project
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:05 PM   #7
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Home made hammer arrestors no longer meet code and make you have to drain down the entire waterline every time they fill with water. Personally I prefer using the correct one and not messing with my plumbing when I can be doing things I enjoy doing.
How long before we start running across failed arrestors? came across one not long ago, they do go bad and they will need replacing at some point. mechanical arresters can not be installed in a non accessible location.. have you seen this in any local codes ?
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:28 PM   #8
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Strap your plumbing down and you shouldnt have a problem,If it does develop fix the problem instead of just using a band aid.
Like has been said previously check the last valve/faucet you use when it happens.
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
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How long before we start running across failed arrestors? came across one not long ago, they do go bad and they will need replacing at some point. mechanical arresters can not be installed in a non accessible location.. have you seen this in any local codes ?
Recently here in Missouri they have begun to let plumbers install mechanical hammer arresters in job accessible locations. I have yet to have one fail and need replaced.
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Old 11-03-2013, 07:54 PM   #10
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How long before we start running across failed arrestors? came across one not long ago, they do go bad and they will need replacing at some point. mechanical arresters can not be installed in a non accessible location.. have you seen this in any local codes ?
IPC only requires them on quick closing valves. So in a house normally only a clothes washer gets them.
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Old 11-04-2013, 03:16 PM   #11
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I have personally seen dozens if not hundreds of copper extensions with caps used for this purpose. Apparently the wise ways of the ancients are no longer code.....?? Kinda makes you think that you could put a schrader on them to pump into them if they are saturated. I might just try that in my neck of the woods deep in the Codeless Wastelands.
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:09 PM   #12
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What can I say. Perhaps the manufactures of hammer arrestors greased someones palm that writes plumbing code?

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