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Washing Machine Drain

45K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  AllanJ 
#1 ·
The box behind the washing machine usually has hot and cold water faucets along with a drain hole. The washing machine typically has a corrugated pipe that is inserted into this drain hole.

Is it normal to have a bit of water splatter around the drain hole after a wash cycle completes?

Also, for some reason, the previous homewoner's plumber/washing machine installer, clamped a flexible hose onto the corrugated drain pipe that attaches to the washing machine to extend the drain line. There's plenty of length of the corrugated piping, so I'm not sure why.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Is it normal to have a bit of water splatter around the drain hole after a wash cycle completes?
I've got three washing machines, and none of them do that. But, maybe mine are strange.

Also, for some reason, the previous homewoner's plumber/washing machine installer, clamped a flexible hose onto the corrugated drain pipe that attaches to the washing machine to extend the drain line. There's plenty of length of the corrugated piping, so I'm not sure why.
If I had to guess, I would guess that the purpose in doing that was to splice a gate valve into the drain line because the drain was overflowing at some point in the past. The thinking would have been that the washing machine is pumping water into the drainage system faster than it can flow away. So, until they realized the problem was that the main drain line from the house was partially clogged, the apparant solution would have been to prevent the water from being pumped into it as fast. Ergo: the gate valve.

(They didn't want to cut the corrugated drain pipe from the washer, so they connected the valve to the end of the corrugated drain pipe, and the flexible hose to the other side of the valve.)

Another explanation may have been that the washer was moved closer to the shut off valves and drain. But it seems foolish not to have removed the flexible hose when they moved the washer closer.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I've got three washing machines, and none of them do that. But, maybe mine are strange.



If I had to guess, I would guess that the purpose in doing that was to splice a gate valve into the drain line because the drain was overflowing at some point in the past. The thinking would have been that the washing machine is pumping water into the drainage system faster than it can flow away. So, until they realized the problem was that the main drain line from the house was partially clogged, the apparant solution would have been to prevent the water from being pumped into it as fast. Ergo: the gate valve.

(They didn't want to cut the corrugated drain pipe from the washer, so they connected the valve to the end of the corrugated drain pipe, and the flexible hose to the other side of the valve.)

Another explanation may have been that the washer was moved closer to the shut off valves and drain. But it seems foolish not to have removed the flexible hose when they moved the washer closer.
I didn't noticed a flow reducing "gate" valve attached to the corrugated drain pipe. Also, wouldn't you be overworking the washing machine's pump by reducing the outlet flow rate?

Would a need to reduce the outlet flow rate of a washing machine vary from washing machine to washing machine? It is a Kenmore model.

Also, there was no mention of a "partially clogged" main drain line. If it was partially clogged, wouldn't the solution be to unclog it? The pipe can be seen in the basement and where it leads to a cleanout. PVC pipe is sized 1.5".
 
#4 ·
Two things come to mind. Washing machines discharge a lot of lint. This easily produces clogs (usualy in the trap). These clogs are hard to remove since a standard snake will go through them without removing the material. The other thing is your washer. If it is fairly new, the pump may be too powerful for the 1-1/2" drain pipe. Many States are changing the code to 2" for washer drains since the 1-1/2" cannot handle the volume of water.
 
#5 ·
Well, based on your assessment, the question is how many people on this forum regularly get their washer drains serviced?

I don't know what the age of the washer is. The home was built in 1998 and it seems that the washer has been replaced.

I did notice that depending on the setting, the rinse cycle (thus discharge) can be changed from fast (regular wash) to slow (gentle cycle). Also, the amount of water can be adjusted based on the wash load.

I guess, as most here do, that it's another thing on the list that homeowners just need to constantly monitor.
 
#6 ·
This is one of the areas that is normally hard to get to for removing the trap. As much as I hate to admit it, I have used the "canned" air pressure cans to clear this type clog. Remember to add water to the trap after using this type product, to maintain the sewer gas seal.
 
#9 ·
I had that problem i had to go down to my crawlspace and take the copper pipes apart and snake them. They had some like gooey soap residue in them. It wasn't a bad job because my copper pipes have a rubber sleeve around connections with two breeze clamps. If you have pvc i don't know what to say.:no: Because you can't take those pipes apart.:laughing:
 
#11 ·
Why would it be necessary to have copper drain pipes?

I wonder if these super concentrated detergents are having an effect on pipes and clogging. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to run a cycle from time to time on hot/warm water only just to help dissolve some of this detergents that may not dissolve as easily as the less concentrated detergents.
 
#15 ·
It's actually called a "packing nut", and you shouldn't tighten it any more than necessary to stop the leak.

For valves that are normally left open 24/7/365, it's so seldom that you need to tighten the packing nut that no one keeps track of it. If you use the valve on a regular basis, then there will be more wear on the packing and you'd need to tighten the packing nut more often. You might even have to replace the packing on a regularily used valve once or twice during your lifetime.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the advice.

I could barely get my hands/tools into that tight space so any tightening was minimal at best.

I think with the vibration from the washer and the cold weather/water, it might have played small part in loosening up the nut...small possibility.
 
#18 · (Edited)
The washing machine hose must not be extended by splicing and must fit loosely in the drain pipe assembly. Otherwise you can damage the washing machine. If you get overflow then the drain pipe needs to be upgraded or there is a clog.

Over the years with frequent use, drain pipes do suffer deterioration by detergent, more rapidly with dishwashers (dishwasher detergent).
 
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