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Old 05-02-2007, 04:53 PM   #16
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wall hung toilets


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Originally Posted by Ishmael View Post
I don't think any of us are "against" wall-hungs or "don't like them". I was just trying to figure out exactly what you think you gain by using them. If you like the way they look, that's fine. But you keep talking about how they're "adjustable" and they absolutely are not. You mentioned how you'd like to set it lower for a child...that's fine. But when the child gets older, the only way you're going to "adjust" the height is to tear the wall open again and change the rough plumbing, that's all.
Your right Ishmael , The only advantage to the wall hung W.C. is that you can mop under them, Thats why you might see them in some schools or hospitals however a customer of mine has 2 in his house he told me the contractor put them in all of the homes in that track who knows why , If you would really like something for the little guy or girl thats low and you can change it out later , Is a primary water closet their about 10 " off the ground the water you have to rough in for a flushometer, i'm not sure if they come tank type .

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Old 05-02-2007, 05:03 PM   #17
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Ishmeal I guess I was not very clear when I said they are adjustable in height. I did not mean to make it sound like you could adjust the toilet after it was installed. What I meant was you could install it to the height you wish. My family is height challenge. Not real short mom is 4 foot nine. I am the giant at 5 foot 10 most in the family run 5 foot 5. Anyway advantages height installation, easy to clean, more sanitary, being different, do not have to ruin my existing tile job. Disadvantage price which I do not care about and installation which I do care about. I am just trying to find out if I want to tackle the job so I am looking for input. Any and all suggestions are welcome. That is why I am here on this forum.
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:29 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ron The Plumber View Post
There is a special gasket used for wall hung toilets, that uses a special adhesive.
Must be the new technology?? I'm talking about houses built in the late 60's. I went to plumbing supply houses looking for "correct" products, and was always sold some shape/form/brand of wax ring. There were many houses in the neighborhood with these toilets, and any time there was any function with four or five neighbors, there was surely going to be a conversation with profanity about these toilets.
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:34 PM   #19
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It's neoprene gasket that is needed to give a positive seal between the bowl and mounting flange.
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Old 05-03-2007, 09:18 AM   #20
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We plan to use the Kerdi waterproofing membrane under ALL the tile in the wet room. The manufacturer DOES recomment regular sheetrock (not green) over concrete, and I am assuming plywood substrate. I guess I will need to contact the manufacturer on this one, unless anyone has direct experience? Thanks
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Old 05-04-2007, 02:57 PM   #21
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Just a general comment on this topic. I am an Architect in Calif. and have spec'd, and helped install wall hung toilets. First there is a distinction between types of wall hung toilets that needs to be cleared up. Most of the ones we are familiar with are in commercial situations, require a direct water connection that is of larger pipe size, adequate pressure and are a direct flush. Some of these toilets did use a wax ring for the install. Today, though, several companies, mentioned previously, are supplying a wall hung system that is just a tank in the wall normal flush toilet. American Standard, Kohler, etc have always had a wall hung tanked toilet with an exposed tank, inwall bolting bracket and the toilet back drains through the wall (probably uses a wax seal also). The newer toilets are complete kits, with gasquets, and seals. They do not use a wax ring. They do require a 6" stud wall, but I have widened only the wall behind the toilet and designed this in to the look of the bathroom. The drain line must pass vertically through the wall sill plate before the drain line can change directions. All this takes a little pre-thinking, but they work well, look great and if budget and framing allow are a great solution in a residential situation. Not all situations warrent this solution, and there is something to be said for a standard plumbed toilet: it can always be upgraded and changed to a completely new design without going in to the wall, removing tile, etc. Would I use them for myself? Most definitely.
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Old 05-04-2007, 03:40 PM   #22
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G Smith so if I understand correctly the toilet discharge pipe must go down before I turn it left to hook up to my main drain pipe that is coming from upstairs. If this is correct ( and you can understand my poor instructions). What is the minimum drop before I can make the turn. Oh and my main house drain is a 3 inch not a 4 like rear discharge toilets is it a big deal to reduce it down to 3 inches after about 3 feet of 4 inch pipe. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 05-04-2007, 03:49 PM   #23
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This is what my plumbing situation looks like. The main drain is on the left. I wanted to hook up to it. I was actually thinking about putting the toilet to the right or left a couple of feet.
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Old 05-04-2007, 08:37 PM   #24
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You do not have to go down first before you cut into the vertical waste stack. But you'd be better off tying it into the pipe that has the clean-out tee on it because it's already vented. If you want to tie into the waste stack on the left, you would need to run an individual vent vertically off the waste arm before it enters that stack - otherwise it would be an unvented fixture.

Your waste stub out of the wall should be 3".
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:12 PM   #25
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Thanks Ishmeal. That is the one I really wanted to us but I thought that was just used for venting so I was not suppose to use it. I am not sure why the clean out is there. Their is another toilet directly behind that clean out. Still not sure if I am going to do wall mount or destroy my tile. I am a little worried just because I can not find a local person who has done a wall mount and I got a hold of a few people who sell them but they do not know anything about them.
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:58 PM   #26
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You should look at the following web page: Also click on the installation link on their web site.

http://www.geberit.co.uk/geberit/ine...san-Wall-duo-1

This is the Geberit web site in the UK. This is the typical inwall tank and frame that most wall toilets use. Duravit uses this product and adds their toilet bowl to it. Looking around on the web you can find the installation diagrams and dimensions. the waste drain drops straight down, then almost immediately you can transition to an elbow to swing the drain over to the main drain. The waste line is 3" so you will not need to bell up. Once you turn the drain line you will need to T off with a vent if the trap arm is to long. Check your code restrictions (International Plumbing Code probably). The reason I know some of this is that I had spec'd a Duravit for one of my projects but I also had designed a Glulam beam directly under the wall. We had to push the toilet back into the wall, notch the beam, and use an offset 1/8 bend imediately under the floor before we could use a 90 to swing in line with floor joists. You can use a 90 almost immediately but will will need a short length of 3" pipe to make the connection with the Geberit drain. Think "no hub" connection.

The cleanout is in the wall in the vent system because code usually requires a cleanout with in a specific distance of the fixture and with in a specific distance of an access point. Some of these details I usually need to check, but at the moment they are not directly at hand. For most of my projects, I am not doing the plumbing, the sub contractors are, so I loose touch with the code specifics.
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:17 PM   #27
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A follow up. If you click on the installation link then click on the "cont" link you will see how the Geberit 90 deg elbow can rotate. You would need to move you vent piping over to the right, then you could swing the drain and connect directly into the drain stack above the floor, but you would need to frame out the wall so that the metal frame is out from the existing wall framing to align the waste. You would need to vent from the new trap arm that you have just created. You could drop into a sweep T and then provide a cleanout to the right of your installation with the vent connected on this side of the horizontal drain connection. Confusing! The cleanout may not acutally be needed this close to the fixture and there may be one in the system under the floor already.
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:20 PM   #28
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thanks G smith you made my day. So you would use the waste drain and not the vent.
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Old 05-05-2007, 06:23 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by warnerww View Post
thanks G smith you made my day. So you would use the waste drain and not the vent.
When I read your post above, and realized the vent with the cleanout served another toilet on the other side of the wall, I changed my mind...use the waste stack on the left, but make sure you run a vent off the new waste arm.

I'm in Massachusetts, so this is all MA Code (I don't know BOCA): You can run a 3" horizontal waste arm 8 feet away from the fixture to the vent. Your new vent can be tied directly into the 2" vent that comes off the top of the 3" cleanout, but it should be tied in a minumum of 6" above the flood level rim of the highest fixture on the floor (e.g. - if you have a sink whose rim is at 36", the vent must be connected at a minimum of 42" measuring to the centerline of the pipe) - Also, the vent cannot make a 90 degree bend until you reach that height (45 degree offsets are OK). Finally, your new vent can be 1 1/2" in diameter. (I.D.)

Last edited by Ishmael; 05-05-2007 at 06:26 AM.
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Old 05-05-2007, 09:54 AM   #30
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Thanks to all I think I got it.

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