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Old 04-08-2013, 11:21 PM   #16
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


You have a Glacier Bay brand faucet. Plumbers consider them "throw-aways".
Replace the cartridge. You might have a failing o-ring or gasket. If that doesn't work, replace the faucet.

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Old 04-08-2013, 11:31 PM   #17
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


if there was no putty between the faucet and the sink water that gets on top of the sink next to the faucet will seep under the faucet and drip underneath.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:26 AM   #18
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


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if there was no putty between the faucet and the sink water that gets on top of the sink next to the faucet will seep under the faucet and drip underneath.

re-read the OP's last post. That's clearly not his problem, based on the last picture.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:34 PM   #19
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


That usually means it's time to hit home Depot....
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:01 PM   #20
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


take the faucet back to lowes...or hd...and tell them its junk...get a good faucet from a supply house..with a good metal pop up.and get rid of those plastic supply lines ....install new no burst supplies and new faucet will solve problem...
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:22 AM   #21
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


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...install new no burst supplies and new faucet will solve problem...
ben don't want to hijack the thread - but are you saying stay away from the following kind of thing? I think using only rigid lines was also recommended in a post above. Didn't know that.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1004595...2#.UWWCoqLrzX8
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:49 AM   #22
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


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2. The supply lines you have are probably PEX, and it is fairly rigid.
It could be PEX, but it doesn't look like it. PEX usually bends more smoothly than that. As you say, it looks more rigid. PEX is tough, but it's not usually described as "rigid". The curves in PEX are smooth, the curves and angles in that stuff looks unsymmetrical.
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:55 AM   #23
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


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Originally Posted by agoodboy View Post
ben don't want to hijack the thread - but are you saying stay away from the following kind of thing? I think using only rigid lines was also recommended in a post above. Didn't know that.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1004595...2#.UWWCoqLrzX8
I believe what he is referring to, is to replace all the plastic polybutylene (or whatever they are), supply lines in post#5 picture, with no burst supply lines and new faucet. What you have a link to is a flexible braided polymer supply line which is now considered better than plastic polybutylene.

Last edited by jmon; 04-10-2013 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:55 AM   #24
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


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I got a little overzealous and... snapped the PVC drain assembly apart. I had to replace the whole drain assembly (only $10)--which promptly started leaking (around the threads that connect to the top part of the drain). I applied some thread sealant and reassembled and the drain is now working fine... now back to the original problem :|
You shouldn't need any thread sealant on these. Water should never be getting to the threads to begin with. If it's leaking and thread sealant "solved" it, you still have a problem.

These things should only be tightened by hand, but most importantly the washers must be the correct type for each joint, and they must be facing the right way, and they must not be cracked (either because of overtightening or because of age.) If you get those things right (and you should) then no sealant of any type should be used.

Having said that, it's always safe to use teflon tape on metal threads, even if it's a compression fitting, contrary to what someone said earlier in the thread. The tape doesn't stop leaks or seal off water, it just makes the threads fit better and turn on more smoothly. Of course you don't want to get this tape in the way of the compression seal itself.
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:23 PM   #25
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


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Originally Posted by agoodboy View Post
ben don't want to hijack the thread - but are you saying stay away from the following kind of thing? I think using only rigid lines was also recommended in a post above. Didn't know that.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1004595...2#.UWWCoqLrzX8
yes you can use solid supply lines ...but you have to be good at bending them...good point either one is good...ben sr
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:40 PM   #26
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


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Originally Posted by jmon View Post
I believe what he is referring to, is to replace all the plastic polybutylene (or whatever they are), supply lines in post#5 picture, with no burst supply lines and new faucet. What you have a link to is a flexible braided polymer supply line which is now considered better than plastic polybutylene.
thanks for the info jmon


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yes you can use solid supply lines ...but you have to be good at bending them...good point either one is good...ben sr

thanks ben, learning a lot of good stuff on this forum!
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:28 PM   #27
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


Just replace the fixture with a delta or moen and forget about it. Much ado about a cheap fixture.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:03 PM   #28
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


I called up Glacier Bay and got them to send me new cartridges. After replacing the cartridges, as expected, there's still a leak (on both hot and cold) where the tailpiece meets the underside of the faucet.

Given that the leaky part can't be replaced, it looks like I'll need to (as many folks have suggested) just replace the whole faucet with something better. While I'm down there, I'll try and replace the supply lines (at the very least so that they're not at such a sharp angle).

Thanks for all the pointers and advice, everyone.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:20 PM   #29
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Very slow drip under counter from faucet


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Originally Posted by EricBNeverScare View Post
I called up Glacier Bay and got them to send me new cartridges. After replacing the cartridges, as expected, there's still a leak (on both hot and cold) where the tailpiece meets the underside of the faucet.

Given that the leaky part can't be replaced, it looks like I'll need to (as many folks have suggested) just replace the whole faucet with something better. While I'm down there, I'll try and replace the supply lines (at the very least so that they're not at such a sharp angle).

Thanks for all the pointers and advice, everyone.
yep what ya waiten forben sr

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