I am doing a remodel of my bathroom and I'm looking for some advice. I am recessing a vanity into the wall, basically the vanity location will be 12-18'' back from original. This is in a 80 year old house by the way. And I want to use a vessel style sink mounted on an old chest of drawers.
I have all the water and drain lines ran, the drain has what I think enough slope... well over 1/4'' per foot. When I fill the sink it drain for a little while then fills with water and slow drains. I am thinking there may be an issue with my p trap. I wanted a pretty low profile so I wouldn't have to hack into any more drawers of the vanity. I have the p trap directly connected to the outlet of the drain, the drain came with about a 6'' drop that i took off and connected directly. Is that a bad idea? Also there is little slope from p trap to drain out. Pipe sizes are 1/4'' all the way to the very end where I had to go up to 1/2'' so I could use a 1/2'' to 2'' rubber mate to get the pvc to mate with lead drain that goes into cast iron vent/drain.
Here are some pics to show what I am talking about, and the drain does make the bend around the wall. And the drain worked properly before I recessed everything and moved the drain around the new corner
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If so, I can name three code violations right off the top of my head
1 : only allowed to go 3.5 feet on a trap arm (vent to trap weir)
2 : only allowed 90* change of direction on a trap arm
3 : the vent must be taken off the TOP of the trap arm. Offsetting your drain up like it is causes the vent to be below the trap. This is not allowed.
Also i'm not 100% sure but it looks like you used pvc water fittings.
Easiest solution :
You will need to go underneath the house and reroute that drain into the wall behind where the sink will be. What kind of piping is the PVC connected to? It looks black, either cast iron or ABS? Once you get the drain where it needs to be, it will be easy to route the vent around those corners back to where it was originally. OR go straight up into the attic and connect it up there.
I am sorry to say, that is one of the worst pig slop jobs i have seen in some time. it is all wrong and needs to be removed and done correctly. I would hate to have that mess in my walls.
I basically put this together for proof on concept, and I guess that was a fail.
So just so I under stand, the biggest issue for the slow drain is the distance from the vent? That black pipe is cast iron. I have limited access under the house but I could go straight down from the wall directly behind the sing and route over to the drain. The issue I see it there is a HVAC unit directly above the sink and wall so venting straight up through the attic would be very difficult.
I basically put this together for proof on concept, and I guess that was a fail.
So just so I under stand, the biggest issue for the slow drain is the distance from the vent? That black pipe is cast iron. I have limited access under the house but I could go straight down from the wall directly behind the sing and route over to the drain. The issue I see it there is a HVAC unit directly above the sink and wall so venting straight up through the attic would be very difficult.
Thanks
The problem is distance, number of fittings, AND type of fittings. It probably had a 90 on it before. Thats max. You've added two and increased the distance so i'm not surprised it doesn't work.
What you described above is exactly what you need to do. Drill a hole straight down. Go below, and route a line from the drain to your hole. Make sure you use a LONG SWEEP 90 when you change from horizontal to vertical.
1-1/2" pipe will be fine for this.
When you stub up through the floor, you want to put an 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" sanitary tee in the wall with the tee outlet facing perpendicular to the wall. As long as you have this within 2-3" of the center of your sink, you will be able to make the connection. Make sure the tee outlet that's sticking out of the wall is approximately 19" from the floor so you have lots of room to hook up later if you have to change to a lower cabinet or something like that.
When you vent, you can certainly run the vent around the corner the way you did with the drain providing that your vent is either perfectly flat, or it will drain back to the fixture. Once you get around the corner tie it back in to where it was before, and you will be A-ok.
I would probably ditch the galvanized water lines too..... they won't last long in any situation. Pex would be the easiest. I usually prefer copper, depending on water conditions.
Edit : Scratch the height on the tee outlet.... I just looked more closely at your cabinet and it looks like a nightmare. You'll have to measure and plumb it accordingly. Attach your P-TRAP to the tailpiece on the sink, and measure from the floor to where the outlet of the p-trap is at. Thats where you want your Sanitary tee cut in. Good luck, post pictures !
your kidding right?????? what the hell is that and what is holding up that corner of the wall with it all hacked out. also looks like wrong 90's they look like vent 90's . Get somebody over there to do that. Sorry dude won't fly
I'm not a plumber or a cabinet maker butI think your project is doable.Unfortunatly you will have to tear out everthing you've already done and start over.I'd follow Allan's advice for the plumbing he seems to know how to do it.Your cabinet will have to be pretty well gutted to give room for the waste plumbing.The top row of drawers can only be a couple of inches deep and would probably be easier as a false front.The other rows of drawers would have to be U-shaped to go around the p-trap.For my abilities I would fasten the drawer fronts to a panel and make it into a door.Then you could gut the rest of the cabinet.Give it some thought and keep us informed.
Thanks for the great advice Alan, I'll crawl under the house this weekend and see about getting that drain going in the right direction. I am pretty sure it's all cast iron under there though That should be fun splicing into.
Ferris13, that piece is 1'', but I just had that in there for mock up... I had cut that lead reducer back to the 2'' part and used a 2'' to 1 1/2'' black rubber reducer, but I probably won't be using that drain at all now.
To everyone that gave good advice thanks! I was able to route everything under the house with ease. Sorry I didn't update earlier, I got tied up with other projects,but it's been done for a while and haven't had any issues.
This is a early craftsman bungalow so I wanted to keep with the feel and theme.
I did everything myself except the 4x4 marble floor, too tired after all the subway, and the wall texture.
The medicine cabinet was made out of the salvaged ship lap boards from the room.
The faucet was stock off the internet, I then had it brass plated with no lacquer so it would age naturally. The cross handles are vintage, I had a machine shop drill the back of the handle to accept the new valve, and then put a set screw in the handle to hold it all in place.
To everyone that gave good advice thanks! I was able to route everything under the house with ease. Sorry I didn't update earlier, I got tied up with other projects,but it's been done for a while and haven't had any issues.
This is a early craftsman bungalow so I wanted to keep with the feel and theme.
I did everything myself except the 4x4 marble floor, too tired after all the subway, and the wall texture.
The medicine cabinet was made out of the salvaged ship lap boards from the room.
The faucet was stock off the internet, I then had it brass plated with no lacquer so it would age naturally. The cross handles are vintage, I had a machine shop drill the back of the handle to accept the new valve, and then put a set screw in the handle to hold it all in place.
That should be fun splicing into.
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