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Old 03-07-2009, 05:54 PM   #1
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Utility Sink Drain Install (I've Searched!!!)


**** Please skip to my post with updated diagram near the bottom - this diagram is incorrect! *****

Hi all,
I apologize in advance, because I know this has been discussed endlessly. Unfortunately after over an hour of searching, I still don't have an answer to my particular situation. I've attached a rough drawing that I did of the current plumbing and what I would like to do. Background: I live in Utah, would like to do this at least to code (or better), it's in a house built in 1985 and the basement is unfinished, so I have seen the laundry room pipe all the way down.
In the laundry room, there is a 2" drain pipe above the level of the washer that the washer drains into with a small hose. I assume that this is a vent / drain pipe. The interesting thing is that I have followed this pipe down through the floor and into the basement, and there doesn't seem to be a trap on it, that I can see. I expected to find a U-shaped trap somewhere, and there isn't one. This is a dedicated sewer line, though, it runs straight into the slab in the basement (see diagram).
My question is, can I put a "Y" connector (a 2" x 2" with the offshoot being 1 1/2") about a foot above the floor and run the sink drain into this line with standard white pvc that is 1 1/2"? I want to do this to code. One of the things mentioned is that when the washer empties, it will pull the water out of the sink trap and allow sewer gases to come into the house. Why aren't we smelling sewer gases now with the direct line to the slab (the pipe does not continue up to the roof as a vent, it ends at waist height in the laundry room wall)? Would what I want to do work? And if not, what is the best way to do it properly? I apologize for my descriptive vocabulary, I clearly do not know the correct terms for each thing. Thanks in advance! Kevin
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Old 03-07-2009, 07:37 PM   #2
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Let's start with the 2" drain the the washer is hooked to.

First I would wan't the pipe to go up and terminate through the roof but, that looks like it would hard to accomplish. So, what I would do is cut the pipe 6" above the floor and put a DWV "T".

Then going straight up run the pipe a min of 6" above the washer and install a 2" female adapter and install a AAV (Air Admitance Valve) to the adapter.
This will seal off the possibility of sewer gasses.

Then on the "T" install a 2" P-trap with a stand pipe for the washer to drain into. The stand pipe must be a min of 18" and max of 42" from the trap weir.
I would just go about 12" below the AAV

The AAV needs to be rated at a min of 6 dfu

That should take care of the washer.


For the utility sink putting a "Y" or a "T" is fine. But use 2" and make sure you use a trap on the sink. You can go smaller if the below applies

Code says max distance of fixture trap from vent IIC 906.1

1 1/4" trap max distance 5 ft
1 1/2" trap max distance 6 ft
2" trap max distance 8 ft

hope this helps

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Old 03-07-2009, 10:31 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Plumber101 View Post
Let's start with the 2" drain the the washer is hooked to.

First I would wan't the pipe to go up and terminate through the roof but, that looks like it would hard to accomplish. So, what I would do is cut the pipe 6" above the floor and put a DWV "T".

Then going straight up run the pipe a min of 6" above the washer and install a 2" female adapter and install a AAV (Air Admitance Valve) to the adapter.
This will seal off the possibility of sewer gasses.

Then on the "T" install a 2" P-trap with a stand pipe for the washer to drain into. The stand pipe must be a min of 18" and max of 42" from the trap weir.
I would just go about 12" below the AAV

The AAV needs to be rated at a min of 6 dfu

That should take care of the washer.
Thank you, I really appreciate the detailed advice. I was just at Lowe's and the guy there said it would be fine to do it like the diagram I have. I am guessing you know more then he does. Is there a possibility that there is a trap already for the laundry room line somewhere below the slab? Because we've been in the house for almost six months, the pipe is completely open at the top, and we've never smelled sewer at all. If there is a trap below the slab, is it possible to just splice in the sink as described? Thanks for the sink info, too. It's only going 3 feet or so, so the 1.5" should be ok.
Venting to the roof would be extremely difficult, washer is on the second floor of 3. Would elevation make a difference as well? The basement is about 15 feet above the street, then the laundry room is a full floor above that. Not sure if it's relevant at all, just would have thought they would have done it correctly. It is a custom home and was built in '85.
Thanks again for the help, Kevin
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:35 PM   #4
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It is possible to have a trap below the concrete but, Code requires all fixtures to trapped. There are exceptions but a sink needs to be trapped.

By the way the guy at Blowe's is not probably a licensed plumber were I am.

Good luck man

and

Happy plumbing
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:36 PM   #5
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I have a similar set up as yours except everything is in the basement. The washer drain is 4 inch extending about 4 feet up and open at the top. The trap for it is below the concrete.

We set a laundry tub in next to it - and tapped into the open 4 inch with a 2 inch drain T. We did trap the laundry tub.
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:00 PM   #6
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Hi everyone,
Thank you for the detailed help on my post. Unfortunately, my situation is different than I thought it was originally. After cutting out more drywall, I found that there is a trap for the washing machine and it is vented to the roof. I have attached a sketch of my actual situation with the ideal for the utility sink. The sink drain is two feet from the drain. I would like to use 1.5" pipe, build a trap for the sink and then use a wye to splice into the vent line as diagrammed. Will this work, or do I also need to put a vent in or an AAV? Anyone know if an AAV is code in Utah? Thanks in advance! Kevin
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Old 03-12-2009, 03:46 PM   #7
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Cutting out more drywall, the vent to the roof is a 1 1/2" pipe to the roof. Is it ok to cut into the vent pipe and run the utility sink in there? Will I need to vent in above the sink with a separate T? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I apologize for the initial confusion, I am a newbie DIYer! Thanks, Kevin
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Old 03-12-2009, 10:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sturg11 View Post
Hi everyone,
Thank you for the detailed help on my post. Unfortunately, my situation is different than I thought it was originally. After cutting out more drywall, I found that there is a trap for the washing machine and it is vented to the roof. I have attached a sketch of my actual situation with the ideal for the utility sink. The sink drain is two feet from the drain. I would like to use 1.5" pipe, build a trap for the sink and then use a wye to splice into the vent line as diagrammed. Will this work, or do I also need to put a vent in or an AAV? Anyone know if an AAV is code in Utah? Thanks in advance! Kevin
What you have there is called a "common vent". Yes it will work. The distance you have from the laundry tub trap to the vent is 2', in my state 3'6" max is required for a 1-1/2 trap. Looks good to me.
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Old 03-12-2009, 10:19 PM   #9
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What you have there is called a "common vent". Yes it will work. The distance you have from the laundry tub trap to the vent is 2', in my state 3'6" max is required for a 1-1/2 trap. Looks good to me.

In my code 1 1/2 horz to a vert vent is 6' ft


Ironrange what is your code mine is ICC Plumbing 2006 and local city is thinking of going to UPC Plumbing/Mechanical 2006 since ICC2009 requires sprinklers in residental construction.
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Old 03-12-2009, 10:39 PM   #10
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Thank you, I really appreciate the help! Kevin
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Old 03-13-2009, 02:13 PM   #11
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In my code 1 1/2 horz to a vert vent is 6' ft


Ironrange what is your code mine is ICC Plumbing 2006 and local city is thinking of going to UPC Plumbing/Mechanical 2006 since ICC2009 requires sprinklers in residental construction.

What state are you in? Minnesota adapted it's own plumbing code and it's very strict, Chapter 4715. You can find the complete Minnesota 4715 on the internet.

1-1/4 2'6"
1-1/2 3'6"
2 5'
3 6'
4 10'

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