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Old 11-08-2011, 10:48 PM   #1
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Unleveled Toilet Flange Popped out


Hello. I have remodeled my entire bathroom. Just finishing up and the last thing to install is the sink and toilet. The flange had to be replaced, it was rusted out from a old cast iron pipe. I got the PVC flange with the big gasket on it. I believe twist and set? I used no. 14 1 1/2 screw to secure the flange to the floor. The new floor has cement board and tile. and is level. I installed the toilet today and it was way off. It was leaning to the right. So I applied some more pressure thinking it was the wax and then tightened the bolts right. I thought I would leave it fill up with water and let it sit for a few hours. Tried a couple flushes and it worked great but was still slanted. So I pushed on it some more didn't move. I stuck a little shim under it and it was perfect. So I went to tighten the bolt a little more to the shim adjustment and the bolt was loose. I figured the flange broke that i tightened it to much. SO I took the entire toilet apart and found that he flange actually came out of the floor, Should I used bigger screws? Any advise? I did not have to go through the tile with the screws it just cleared the tile.

My plan is to of course secure the flange better and than put the toilet on the flange and see if it seats more level...

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Old 11-09-2011, 05:30 AM   #2
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Unleveled Toilet Flange Popped out


Pictures would help a lot here---

The flange must have been screwed in in a way that damaged the wood----over tightened and stripped out the wood?

You don't have to tork that toilet down to much---it's porcelain and can break.

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Old 11-09-2011, 06:39 AM   #3
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Unleveled Toilet Flange Popped out


Thats probably what happened or the screws weren't long enough. I have to try to remedy this situation today. I was just tyring to get it more leveled. It was off by 1/4 inch.
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:53 AM   #4
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Unleveled Toilet Flange Popped out


What's off? The floor or the flange?

Typically you are only going into 3/4" sub floor so longer screws are not the answer---Fatter ones and more if you can.

If the toilet clears the flange without wax you will be fine even if the flange is cocked.

The wax will compress on the high side but still hold.

If there is very little clearance ---you might need to use a wax only ring---some of the rings with the horn also have a foam core---which will not compress and cause rocking.

Dry fit the toilet---locate any shims needed and tape them down--then do the final install with the wax.

Moving the toilet after the wax is in is a bad thing to do----wax will not reseal it self--once the stool is set don't be wedging it up higher---the wax will already be crushed---Mike---
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