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Old 04-24-2011, 08:15 PM   #1
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Twisted tub/shower valve body!


I've done it now!

I had a leak in my bath tub faucet(an old delta). I tried removing the collar nut, or whatever it's called, it was very difficult to remove and now i've twisted the valve body. I did get the nut off, replaced springs, rings/washers, etc. Then I put it all back together. With fingers crossed, I turned the water back on. Now it leaks from the back.

Is it shot? Is it possible to bend it back into place and solder any cracks that I may find? I'm not experienced with installing new piping, torch and solder....I don't look forward to cutting the pipes and re-piping. But if that's what I have to do, that's what I have to do.

Also, will I have to replace everything, valve body and faucet?

I can't cut the water back on until I have it repaired, because the shutoff valves aren't functioning properly. I'm going to have to take the day off tomorrow to fix this mess. So, any advice will be most appreciated!...the wife is not happy.

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Old 04-24-2011, 08:42 PM   #2
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Twisted tub/shower valve body!


I think it is shot. When you twisted the valve you broke a copper tube. Happens all the time.

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Old 04-24-2011, 09:14 PM   #3
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Twisted tub/shower valve body!


Thanks. I just found some links to similar events happening to others.

The hot and cold come out of each side, but there's only a very short run before it 90's downward. After it 90's downward there is about 6 inches of pipe before another fitting. Should I cut on the longer piece or try to remove the piping as close to the valve as possible?

I'm trying to get a picture uploaded, no luck yet.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:59 PM   #4
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Twisted tub/shower valve body!


Here is a picture...




Should I try to unsolder fittings, or make cuts and use new fittings?

Also, off of the hot and cold water are branches the deadend to copper bulb looking things. Are those for expansion, or what?

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I have to get on this thing tomorrow and have it repaired.

sorry, picture didn't work
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:02 PM   #5
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Twisted tub/shower valve body!


How to attach a photo to a post
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:22 PM   #6
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Twisted tub/shower valve body!


Fitting are cheap---always use new ones----

You will ruin the cartridge if you solder near the valve body--Always remove the cartridge first.

The 'dead end' pipes are air chambers---knockers---you need those.

Use paste flux--red tin(oaty) --and Oaty easy flow solder--or the equivalent.

Good luck posting the picture----Mike---
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:36 PM   #7
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Twisted tub/shower valve body!


Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

I'm having a difficult time posting a pic. When I click on the manage attachments the manage attachments window doesn't appear.

I'll have to check out how the new valve is configured before I can get a grasp on installing the new one. The old one looks like the pipe is soldered to a threaded coupler that has been screwed into the valve assembly.

Should I attempt to remove anything by unsoldering, or cut it out?

Check on removing anything that could melt before soldering. Thanks.

I'd like to think there is nothing to this or that i'm worrying unjustly, but that's what I thought when I tried do the repair in the first place. Now i'm a bit gun shy.

think I was able to upload the pic
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:43 PM   #8
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Twisted tub/shower valve body!


Okay, in the picture above, where the pipe comes out the side and takes a 90 down, should I cut on the longer piece going down and place a coupler fitting about middle ways on that pipe with all new piping and fittings from there to the new valve? What about the actual faucet piping?..do I replace all of the piping right up until it reached the part that the chrome part of the faucet screws in? Is that piece part of the faucet, or a plumbing pipe that should also be replaced?
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:05 AM   #9
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Twisted tub/shower valve body!


I'd cut at the uprights on the left and right.

You are going to need a mini tubing cutter for that job.

Start by soldering four 1/2" male fittings to short pieces of pipe(6 or 8 inches)

When cool, dope and tape them- then screw the pieces into the new mixer valve body.

Be sure that you have at least one 'no stop' coupling in your kit.--These are just like a tube that slides over the pipe---it allows you to get the mixer back in place without having to have 1/2 inch of movement to get a fitting in.

The rest of the job should explain it self---one other important fact---don't get those threaded connections to hot--they will leak if you do.

Wrap a wet rag around the pipe at the mixer to keep it cool,.

The whole mess started because the original install did not use an eared flange -screwed to blocking--for the tub spout---fixing that will be a pain from the back--see if you can do that.---Mike---

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