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Old 08-17-2011, 07:54 PM   #1
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Tub waste and overflow replacement


To make the long story short....we have to replace the above...It seems best to replace the p-bend as well since we are not entirely sure the leak was from the drain gasket...Here is the problem: there is no access of any sort once the tub is in place, how do I make sure its fitted accurately? Plumber asked $600-800, I just cant part with that money knowing the parts themselves came to be less than $30....ANY advice would be appeciated, I've never done plumbing of this sort before...(husband hasnt either...) Thanks!

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Old 08-17-2011, 09:29 PM   #2
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Tub waste and overflow replacement


Review this thread and see if it helps.
Can you access the W & O from below? Are you replacing the tub?

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Old 08-18-2011, 07:08 AM   #3
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Tub waste and overflow replacement


I hole in the ceiling in the room below is currently not an option...I am wondering if I remove a section of the floor beyond the tub if I'll be able to reach under. It seems the most important thing would be to completely replicate the existing fitting and cut the waste pipe going to the toilet and join there...Can anyone tell me how much lenght is lost in cutting and coupling? I am afraid that even if I am 1/4" short I wont be able to fit it well...
And yes, we are putting the same tub back...
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:03 PM   #4
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Tub waste and overflow replacement


Quote:
Can anyone tell me how much lenght is lost in cutting and coupling?
If you use a no hub coupling then there's no length lost.

Hey Eplumb,

Have you ever seen that putty like substance that's appears on some of the fittings?
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:35 PM   #5
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Tub waste and overflow replacement


I'll be using the pvc coupling sold at lowes. not sure if its "no hub"...
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:09 PM   #6
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Tub waste and overflow replacement


Quote:
Originally Posted by VIPlumber View Post
If you use a no hub coupling then there's no length lost.

Hey Eplumb,

Have you ever seen that putty like substance that's appears on some of the fittings?
No length will be lost using a no-hub or glued coupling assuming you cut square.

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Old 08-19-2011, 07:29 AM   #7
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Tub waste and overflow replacement


DISASTER! We replaced the piping, no problem, I measured the existing fixture and replicated it exactly. Had a friend come over to help with the actual tub setting. Had a difference of opinion on where the washer goes for the drain that gets screwed into the boot. Plumber, instructions and lowes's person, as well as the original setting was on the outside of the tub, between it and the boot. Friend said to put it on the inside, over the metal drain screw part...We went my way, put it under (cant see it very well) screwed it in, and now after testing we have a new big leak on the ceiling...
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Old 08-19-2011, 04:09 PM   #8
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Tub waste and overflow replacement


Did you putty or silicon between the strainer and the tub?
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Old 08-19-2011, 05:06 PM   #9
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Tub waste and overflow replacement


putty on the threads of the strainer, may be should have put some on the underside too (the shoe, boot, flange...dont know which term is the exact one...) i am getting very mixed advice. the plumber who came and quoted me $600 if i remove the floor told me no putty should be used anywhere...another plumber said silicone, but a different guy said no because it dries like glue...
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:30 PM   #10
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Tub waste and overflow replacement


No need to putty the threads. Put plumbers putty or silicon round the drain flange, then drop it in the tub hole and tighten it into the drain shoe. As it tightens, the excess putty will squeeze out. You must use putty or silicon on the top side and the rubber gasket underneath. This creates a seal on both sides of the tub

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